
Tony_Bentley
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Everything posted by Tony_Bentley
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first ascent [TR] Burkett Needle - West Ridge "Smash and Grab" (FA) 7/4/2009
Tony_Bentley replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
Super sick! What a great looking line. -
Unless you choose an alternate route, you're likely to get stopped at Snow Creek TH or Mountaineer Creek TH. I'd advise either a day trip or pick a trail off the beaten path. Try Enchantment Peak, Hook & Rat Creeks or come in from Ingalls Creek up Crystal Creek.
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I thought the NW Buttress was a great descent for going back into North Stuart. I think if someone documented the descent it would be the best way to get back to the North side of Stuart from the summit as long as there isn't too much snow. Maybe the next time I climb the CNR I'll try to remember more about it and post something here.
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[TR] Mount Triumph - NE Ridge 8/20/2011
Tony_Bentley replied to CamelJockey's topic in North Cascades
I never found the register when I climbed it. I was able to rappel with a 30 meter glacier rope all the way down the ridge. 2 ropes is overkill. -
Even if there is snow, you won't need crampons or even an ice axe. Depends on your level of comfort on snow.
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Pretty much every peak can be climbed as a scramble with the exception of a few steep lines. Check out Enchantment Peak, Cannon Mountain, Temple Peak, 8-mile Mountain, Colchuck Peak, Dragontail Peak and Mt Stuart to name the obvious.
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Confirmed Grizzly bear sightening in NOCA
Tony_Bentley replied to Dan_Miller's topic in Climber's Board
Interesting. I was up there about 4 years ago and an old man who lives on CRR (and has for 50 years) said he spotted a grizzly cub about 4 miles from the parking lot. I was skeptical but now it's confirmed that he did indeed see a griz and not a black bear. Awesome! -
Do you have bigger photos? Nice job. I need to climb AB.
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[TR] The Mole (Edwards peak) - South Face 6/5/2011
Tony_Bentley replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in Alpine Lakes
I never said it was. Good luck finding my stash. -
You don't need photos. You will not need to rope up or rappel the chute above camp hazard. On big show years it is cruiser. Go get it. Just be careful of avi conditions.
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Take a beater bike. Otherwise, plan on walking everywhere or taking the shuttle bus, which comes every 15-20 min.
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[TR] The Mole (Edwards peak) - South Face 6/5/2011
Tony_Bentley replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in Alpine Lakes
The approach of both Toketie and Hook have gotten considerably worse over the years. It seems like every year more trees fall down and the undergrowth gets thicker. I went over the top last year and camped at mesa lake, left a few Dale's Ales tucked under a boulder for this year. The fish are smaller than they used to be. Hopefully a good winter kill has thinned the population. The worse part is always the return back down about 500'above Yellow Jacket Tower , traversing back to it. I'd still like to climb w.face of the Blockhouse. Looks like a grade 5. -
It's just the swag cables not being perfectly set.
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I'll take $100 for all 7 (#'s 1,2,2,4,5,6,7) or split them $20/ea. Upgrading my gear to more hardcore ultralight mountainous technical equipment.
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http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=4104&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=1924 Here is a photo of some guy named Crackbolter bouldering at split.
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I was checking out NWHikers and saw this trip report: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7990480 I used to scrub routes up there 10 years ago. I remember a route on the right side we couldn't actually climb, some awesome bouldering in the fields around and a nice 5.10 route inside of the split. No bolts but top and belay anchors. How has the development been up there lately?
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That ain't water sports, it's a pounding with a lot of paddling in between.
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You're right Wastral, I need another solo adventure in the pickets. No matter how many trips I do in there, my balls never grow any bigger.
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Because people have great ambitions that turned out pretty epic. And even with a few more trips back into the pickets in between have still come out with even bigger epics.
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I wouldn't suggest to anyone planning on soloing in the Pickets anything but to NOT SOLO in the pickets their first time out there. Maybe try soloing West McMillan spire and then see for yourself how rugged the terrain is. Maybe once you see what you're up against, you can then plan your route accordingly. Just getting a clear weather window is 50/50. I honestly don't know anyone who has been out there that didn't have a near epic adventure, no matter how experienced, how many years on rock and snow and how many trips up Rainier has prepared them.
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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Boving Route 8/13/2010
Tony_Bentley replied to Matt Christensen's topic in Alpine Lakes
Matt, No doubt people are still getting on obscure and difficult routes regardless of what state they are in. If it becomes an aid route or and R/X grade over time because it cannot be protected, so be it. Bolting the route will effect those that value it's current state. Believe it or not, I'd rather climb it (or attempt to at least) without the bolts. Maybe I just need to get on it before you place those bolts. Great stories nonetheless. Inspirational. -
Northwest Mountaineering Journal, 2010
Tony_Bentley replied to Lowell_Skoog's topic in Climber's Board
Really nice. Still tons of new skis and climbs. I'm surprised to see a 2004 report on W.face Blockhouse. Maybe I should add the East Face route. Worthy of a FFA. -
http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/CIMG0013_resize1.JPG The photo clearly shows that Despair is a long ass way away.