Tony_Bentley

Will the generator run the PA system and the projecor and computer? Otherwise the movie idea is out. I can bring some photos but the motion picture is ideal.

Huh...I was there on Sunday and went from SL-TH to SC-TH. I wish I had the weather you had.

Sorry, got work until Wednesday ~Then let's rock.

I wanna climb it next year after the late night jam at the Bluegrass festival and be back by breakfast for eggs and bacon. NOYCE!

Wayne, the pics are a little small. Maybe 700 pixels would be better? Really a great feat. I'm thinking Mike Swayne's photo got you thining about it but there is nothing like staring right at it from Spectre and planning the attack while climbing another unclimbed route in the Pickets. Pretty classic.

Bummer.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/403930/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1

Oh really Dru? I think you need to repeat some of his alpine firsts before you mouth off piss ant.

Where are the previous ascents? Start posting some photos.

Google is plotting to take over the NW http://www.nytimes.com/2006/06/14/techno...O6EaB+dStgMJD7A

Ron I thought you did the first climb of that thing. The pics look like the same route.

I'm not saying anything but the above and Can I have a topo?

Lemme guess: First a photo from John Skurlock, Followed by your own little digi-cam shots with something about how far it is to Perfect Pass and how discontinuous the cracks were but also how sceary it was. Sounds like my kind of adventure. What happened to, "It's actually been climbed by an "anonymous party" who will write something next year for the AAJ. I guess it's not that hard (5.4ish) on that long center buttress. Too bad, but it guess that saves us all a lot of hard work. " ??????? So much for 5.4. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/557515/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1 Cheap man. Real Cheap.

OH GOD! NOT MUSHY TALK HERE H! Keep it in the tent will ya? I think I'm gonna vomit now...no offense.

Figure it out.

No but Sky should be back with a TR on Sunday. Good luck out there! Free the 5.12? I think the fact that Ross was burly enough to link the two 5.10 corner pitches is enough. He ran out of gear 3/4 up the pitch but he managed to lower off, back clean and finish it for a full 200' pitch. Damn boy! 13 hours C2C.

I concur with welkin1000 but it may be best to get some beta as it isn't straighforward. An option is to scope out the buttress on your way around to the base and decide the best plan of attack. There are a half a dozen rappel anchors if you head down the right way and this eliminates any need for crampons or ice axe.

Hey have fun flyfishing up there. There are plenty of places in the Enchantments to catch fish as most of the lakes have naturally reproducing trout. If packing a flyrod is more of a secondary to actually trying to catch fish, a small film canister with a few select dries and small streamers are all you need. 4x tippet for the streamers and 5x for the dries works well for me. Most of the fish are westslope cutthroat and average from 6" to 14" with an occasional 15 or 16"er. You may want to encourage your buddies to crimp their barbs and cut the treble hook to only have one point so releasing the little guys is much easier and also so the ones released are more likely to live after being released. Although the habitat is prolific, it is also still pretty easy to make a dent in the population by being careless. Have fun out there! It rocks. Good times!

IN AKSHUN!!!

Here is another photo of Pernod's West face. An excellent route indeed!

I'm not certain about when exactly it had been previously climbed but Dan and Erik claimed a first ascent on their route. Our climb was not a first and based on the kinds of previously grubbed out places for protection, I believe that the pro was a combination of stoppers and pitons. It is difficult to tell because a few of the placements I used required some gardening but the cracks were also naturally clean in most places. I do remember pulling out some dirt and moss in one place and seeing what looked like a piton scar behind it. Tough to say exactly. I would guess a previous ascent between the 60's and 70's but this is all merely speculation. I am pretty certain that Dan and Erik did not climb this route based on the topo Erik sent me and the state of the climb. There was also a single stopper on the second pitch that looked very old.

Climb: Black Pyramid - Temple Ridge - Enchantments-Northwest Face direct Date of Climb: 7/11/2006 Trip Report: This is one of those climbs that require a partner willing to put up with dirt, lichen and a good amount of loose blocks. Ross was the perfect candidate. I did a trip last year around Temple Ridge trying to find some really good looking routes to come back and try later on. The route on the Northwest Face of the Black Pyramid was by far one the coolest looking. Black Pyramid, Professor, Comet and Meteor We left Seattle around 5am and were hiking by 8am. The trail up Nada Creek was a breeze in the shade with a slight breeze but the mosquitoes were out in full force. They proved to be the crux of our trip and the bane of The Enchantments. Direct Northwest Face route with the face cracks showing in the sun. We took a quick break and headed over to the base of the route. The climbing followed a number of finger to hand cracks and Ross decided it was about 5.9. The summit was an awesome boulder move to a very small summit block big enough for one person. The rappel from the summit sent us down the Southeastern side and we were able to traverse back to the Meteor-Black Pyramid col and descend back to our packs. The hike out was insanity thanks to the little devils eating us alive. After passing Nada Lake they went away and the wind picked up which made it pleasant the rest of the way out. Pitches 1 and 2 Pitches 3 and 4 and summit Gear Notes: Standard rack

Hey Sarah I mentioned the ice axe to Dave and Amar so maybe they picked it up? Dave frequents this site so he will give a shout if it turned up. Nice job getting LibRidge. You guys are animals!

Climb: Mt Rainier ski in-a-day-Emmons Date of Climb: 7/9/2006 Trip Report: Ben called at about 3pm on Saturday afternoon and was wondering if I’d be up to climbing the Emmons glacier Saturday night and summiting sometime Sunday. “Would I? Umm sounds good but you will need to pick me up at 7pm.” He was at the house by 7:15 and we were hiking from the White River campground by 10pm. Neither of us had ever been on that side of Rainier, which was fine considering all of the tracks showing us the way. The irony is that we still managed to go the “direct” way but felt lost once we were looking down and seeing a faint trail heading down. “This feels wrong.” Is the feeling we were getting but just when we decided to take another look a headlamp went on which gave us the clue we needed to continue scrambling down to Camp Sherman. It turned out that the headlamp was our good friend Dave and he just happened to be getting up to use the bathroom and photo op. We were glad that he showed us the way and saved us the time it might have taken to turn around and go the “other” way. After a 30 minute break at Camp Sherman we began heading up. At about 12k the sun was starting to show some sign and the photo ops were awesome! We worked our way up the Emmons without any problems. No rope needed and plenty of ways through the crevasses. Around 13k I was beginning to feel the elevation and dehydration. The last few hundred feet took forever. After a brief rest on the summit we put on our skis and picked our way down being careful about the crevasses. At one point we were through most of the hard snow and the snow was starting to soften to corn. At about 13k the snow was perfect. Ben jumping a snow bridge. Emmons Glacier with boot and ski tracks A nice hour break at Camp Sherman and then an awesome ski down the Inter glacier. The snow was great and although we both felt worked, it was well worth a 9000’ ski run and a 10,000’ climb. We hydrated at the first grocery store and were home by 7:20pm. Not a bad day trip and a great ski! Thanks Ben for the last minute idea. Gear Notes: Crampons Didn't use ice axes, skins or rope