Drederek

Thanks to all involved!!

About 50 yards or so and the trail is easy to follow unless visibility is bad. Theres another easy trail about an eighth of a mile further past the carpark. Its the start of routes 2 & 3. Its a bit fainter and loses some elevation in the middle traversing left and joins up with route 1 well below the summit.

Try Ellinor from Big Creek campground or Buckhorn up the big quilcene trail. Oh and some guy did Olympus as a trail run earlier this year.

Does this guy have any idea how famous he is on CC.com?

Can you spell these out for me?

Rapping is probably a bad idea on a busy day up there. The crux of OS and Orbit on a w/e day in the summer is not getting tired walking off an extra time but not getting bored waiting for the parties ahead of you on whichever you do 2nd. But it is a good way to end up on Mary Jane Dihedral!

Haul bivy gear and yer lady up the Beckey route on Lib Bell. I hope you can figure out the rest!

I suppose an obvious answer would be when you own the crag.

All too true K-dub but you'd think the rock'd be better if someone drug a drill up there and installed some nice bolts. And got it written up in a respectable guidebook. Didn't have time to check out the other, more grayish crags, wonder if they're any better and have routes on 'em?

Finally got around to checking this area out yesterday. I don't believe many others have either. Trail in was mostly overgrown but we did manage to follow it to Red tower, by using a combination of open corridors, saw cuts, yellowed orange flagging (not much at the start) and glimpses of what indeed turned out to be our objective. The 5.5 made an all too quick warmup and that just left the 10a to finish our day as we had gotten a very late start and wanted to go jump in the lake. After pushing the tree leaning up against the start to a more secure position (could not get it out of there) I threw a hex into a fairly nice slot and moved my feet up to position myself for the one clip on the route. As the route overhangs about 5 feet in the first 20 I was expecting to find something more than rounded over crumbly edges to pull on. After throwing to a spiderweb choked hold the big foot I was on blew out and I decided to set up a top rope. The bolts at the top are in great shape and well placed, I quickly rapped down and fired up the route, kicking feet off at my wife here and there but missing her every time. Once past the steep bit the rest was fine with a nice direct finish on more secure holds. It looked like the the edge for the right hand down low may have pulled off, with another hold or a nice jam down there it would not have been harder than BOC. Always fun to get on steep stuff but if you get on this thing be prepared for a bit of crumble and something more like 10c.

Nice trip and TR! Looks like mostly just a few scattered snopatches left? Hope you don't get too big of a belay penalty for calling yer dad slow

Better yet hang your car below a cargo helicopter and step outta your car onto the summit, that'd be fast!

Nice, I've been contemplating Warrior for awhile. Any pictures?

Hard to beat p3 of Sisyphus, we were lucky to have the whole wall to ourselves that day. We wondered what routes were on the wall above it.

This thread needs updating badly

Hard to believe there was no snow at the base of the climb in your shots, it looked at least twenty or thirty feet deep to us. I definitely needed rock shoes for the crux lead, as one foot was generally smearing the whole time.

Trip: Dragontail - Serpentine Arete Date: 6/26/2010 Trip Report: After a nice sleep in the back of my truck at the Stuart Lake TH, JRCO and I started up the trail a bit before 4:30. It wasn't dark for long. After a coupla hours we were at Colchuk lake After losing a pound, filling water bottles and donning crampons we made a rising traverse on mostly solid snow to the base of the route. While JRCO shivered on the snow I wandered around looking for a 5.6 way up thru the first pitch, getting sidetracked by some gear someone must have bailed off of. After downclimbing that and bootying the nut + biner I finally found an easy way upwards. Not a great start but we were on our way. After that we meandered our way up and right to the side of the obvious pillar and found this sweet crack. The crux pitches were solid and great fun, not much snow amd the temps were slowly rising. Soon we ere eating sandwiches and enjoying the sunshine and the views. We laughed, unroped and speculated on whether it would take us one hour or two to hike to the top. After a few hundred feet we decided to rope up to negotiate the not so perfect rock around the snopatches covering the 4th class bits. Two things had quickly become apparent: We were going to remain roped up and it was going to be more than a couple hours to the top. As the we had plenty of time and it was such a nice day this just fine with us. We stuck with rock shoes till we final 2 pitches. The last pitch took some great gear in the exposed ribs and went easily We were greeted on the summit by a half dozen peeps who had come up other routes. We were soon sliding down, pretty much nonstop to the lake, 15 minutes down to where we were 9 hours before. Dinner at Gustav's by eight . Gear Notes: 1 each green thru blue camalots set of nuts 3 draws 6 slings axe n pons Approach Notes: No snow till Colchuk lake

Guidebook wars are so ugly. You oughtta find it in your heart to be a bigger man and work with this guy to put out the best guide possible. If his version is as lame as you infer I doubt you'd be so upset. Oregon needs better guidebooks, Other than for Smith I haven't bought one yet.

Factual information is what I look for in a guidebook. History is a definite bonus and controversy is always a fun read.

sure hope so!

Not your gaveling shoulder I hope!

Hows it lookin Senor Blanco?

Perhaps folks do the NE ridge because it's a choss-covered nightmare. I've never done any of the backside routes, anyone done one that they really liked? The top of the NE ridge looks cool enough.

I've been to the city 3 times now for 3-4 days per trip and have done just fine with Binghams guide. Its not perfect but it'll get you around and on plenty of good climbs. Its a bit of an adventurous area and I like hiking around, your results may vary.

Say goodbye to the age of immortality M LeClerc. Most guys are lucky to do this by age 25. Most guys who climb by 35. I've read stuff saying our ability to dangerous stuff at age 15 - 25 without considering the possible bad outcomes is hardwired into our brains.