ScottP

quote: Originally posted by iain: (snip some stuff about the bob post) Quality trolling. I disagree. A blatant use of inflammatory phrases and jargon coupled with hasty typos and typical expletives relegates rabidturtlewaxbob's post to a merely mediocre troll. Not really worthy of the 'quality' moniker.

and that David Blaine levitation thing... On a serious note, is a pitch really considered free if the majority of the population has to aid it? Yeah the Lithuanian Lip has reportedly gone free, but is it really a free pitch?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: aid climber can always get past the missing heads with some extensive trickery: cam hooks zerocams splither gear onecam units, 'popeheads', duct tape time bombs, trained squirrels, or stick clip your next piece or whatever.... You forgot 1/4" (6mm) webbing and superglue...

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Um, I'm trying to imagine how you could possibly use a head seam for finger jams, or how/why you could possibly use finger jams for heads... (snip) I was wondering about this myself. Even the tiniest finger cracks usually take RP's/micronuts/ittybitty cams, etc.

Here's a site that has beta and a pin list for the TRL: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/cary/thinredline.html and a picture that I believe is from early April: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/NorthCentral/Maint/Area3/nc2002/Week3e/4-2cr12dozer.JPG

I met an acquaintance in the Curry parking lot the day after he came down from topping out on the Salathe. He had what looked like a piece of uncooked hamburger the size of a silver dollar on the palm of his left hand and what looked like half a pound of ground round on the back of his arm above his elbow. He said it was the result of arm-barring the Hollow Flake.

quote: Originally posted by vrj: What peaks am I climbing...good q, frankly I do not even know where to begin. Like everyone I would want to do only the most scenic & fun ones given the short time I will have. Wondering if I should post again asking on that. I primarily scramble upto class 4 with rock & a limited amount of ice. In no particular order: •Mt Daniel via Peggy's Pond •Mt Stuart by the south side •Colchuck Peak and/or Dragontail Peak via Colchuck Col •Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier •Ruth Mt via the Ruth Glacier •Eldorado via the east ridge •ad nauseum

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: And the view from the lower saddle crapper is nice.... Yes, it is... (You can just barely make out the SW corner of the 'crapper' in the lower right hand corner of the graphic.)

According to a couple of different 'net sources (one of them being here: http://www.ontherope.com/produkty/legenda.htm ) "SHEATH SLIPPAGE It can be both positive (the sheath is longer) and negative (the core is longer). According to EN 892 the sheath slippage cannot be longer than 2 % (40 mm). The UIAA standard is stricter and directs max. 1 % (20 mm). " These percentages being for the length of the rope and the allowable slippage in parentheses being the slippage on the test length. and, according to Maxim's site ( http://www.neropes.com/maxim_climbing/climbing_ropes/10.5mm.htm), sheath slippage on the 10.5 ropes should be zero. I don't know how many ropes I've owned, but it's in the upper teens range and I've never seen this must slippage on any of them, nor on any of my partners ropes. [ 05-18-2002, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Crackhead: I was high up on the crux pitch of Outer Space last Wednasday. I had led up to where the crack goes right and you have to do THE step out. My belayer, for some reason, could not pay me out slack to clip. So I'm hanging out mid crux staring down to figure out what's wrong with his system. To my utter amazement I see that he has his shiny new reverso clipped into his belay loop by the wrong carabiner. He had it clipped like it should be to an anchor for a FOLLOWER. No Fucking wonder he can't pay out slack. Duh. I yelled, "what the fuck, don't you read instruction manuals?" I Then calmly proceeded to talk him through correct procedures. It would have held in a fall... right? The lesson learned is: don't take sport climbers on trad routes. Maybe another lesson learned is always check to make sure the entire system is set-up properly before starting the lead.

I got two offers to increase my breast size today... "If you are interested in a natural solution to breast enlargement, check it out here ." [ 05-17-2002, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

If my gear is good, I look at each cruxy move as an off-the-ground boulder problem, avoiding thinking about what is beneath my feet. If my gear isn't good, I whine and moan alot.

'Walking up cams': You just scoot them along with you as you go. Like a dog with worms, but not.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Town Crier - the WHOLE story Wow, thanks for the mammaries...

quote: well its good that we see eye to eye Yup. That childish, belittling behaviour... I tell ya... [ 05-15-2002, 03:07 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: no actually it is a case of stupidity/childish behavoir overload. . Yeah, the nerve of some people... "and scottp your wish to climb the manky bolt ladders is stupid....keep drving your car around if you want to be scared by machines and steel.... old people....sheesh !!!!"

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Manky rotten bolt ladders are stupid. (snip) Then again, I think they do have a bit of astheic, historical value. I swore to myself I wasn't going to get into this argument, but... make up your mind already! (BTW, I agree with you on the aesthetics and history.) quote: It's not like they take any extra skill to climb, just the balls to run the gauntlet. Mental skill and physical skill: The mental skill is the wherewithall to step onto shitty pieces, regardless of what they are. The physical skill is the ability to move smoothly, carefully and delicately on shitty pieces, regardless of what they are. quote: It's unrealistic to pretend that we can use ancient bolt ladders on trade routes forever..Who said anything about forever? When one of the studs snaps, it is replaced. In my opinion, climbing is about risk. Remove the risk and much of what climbing is is removed also. In essence it becomes vertical hiking, in my opinion.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: That definitely looks like somewhere I want to be! It seems I've heard there's a bit of something for everyone there - bouldering, sport, and trad? There's a fun boulder traverse on Practice Rock, Tribal Boundaries is a stellar bolted face climb, and I really enjoyed a gear route called Bloody Fingers. Yeah, there's something for everyone. The standard route, "Skyline", Morning Glory Spire, City of Rocks [ 05-13-2002, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

Tribal Boundaries, 10a, City of Rocks

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Rattletale rules by the way.

yeah, it is f=ma. Sometimes I should think before I post. Even worse, I confused acceleration with velocity. My point was that a longer fall will mean you are going faster and therefore you will tend to exert more force on the top piece. Sorry for being such a birdbrain. Erik- I already climbed the manky bolt ladder.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: cool, thanks. I think that was glen's question as well. So the bolts added were belay bolts, not lead bolts... I'm sure a huge debate could erupt over the ethics of adding belay bolts vrs. lead bolts to an established route. I'm not gunna start it. i just wanted to know how the route has changed over the years, after all I'm relatively new to these parts... Do consider that those buttonheads were placed long ago. Also consider that the bolt ladder at the top was a conglomeration of really funky stuff; homemade hangers, drive-ins, etc. (Origins unknown.) It was really fun clipping this antique stuff. I viewed it as a body weight bolt ladder.

Charlie sez: "Does anyone have a topo for Orbit that they could post on here or email me?" "Better yet, somebody want to meet me at the trailhead tommorow with the topo, then climb it with me?" "still need the topo...." "So, no topo??? " Somebody get this guy a tissue.

Blah, blah,blah...anyway, as of several summers ago, the route goes clean. Be wary of beta from those who look like snoop doggy dog and need a topo to climb Orbit. [ 05-10-2002, 09:13 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: A bit off topic, but this always bugs me: Lambone said: quote: fall forces generaly decrease as the runnout gets longer. and Scott P responded: quote: True, true Why does anyone think that fall forces decrease as the runout gets longer? If you are 80 feet up a route and fall five feet above a bolt, the fall factore is 10/80 (.125). If you are 80 feet out and 10 feet above a bolt, the fall factor is 20/80 (.25). The longer the runout, the greater the fall factor. matt No, what I said was: "True, true...but I'd rather fall onto one of those bolts from only a few feet above than ten or twenty feet above. And the reason I said that is why? Because I believe that a longer fall onto a bolt is going to generate more force than a shorter fall. f=m/a If I fall from 20 feet rather than 5, then my acceleration is greater, therefore the force on the bolt that stops me should be greater. I admit I'm no physicist, but that is my understanding of forces and motion.