ScottP

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: True, true...only fall forces generaly decrease as the runnout gets longer. Anyway, whatever I'm not arguing with you...I like spicy aid moves too. True, true...but I'd rather fall onto one of those bolts from only a few feet above than ten or twenty feet above.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Agreed, but on perhaps the most popular multipitch aid route in Washington, they'd have to be replaced sooner or later. Maybe after someone ripped 'em in a huge whipper. If they ripped them in a huge whipper. It's not like there is a huge runout generating a lot of forces if a fall occurs. And Yates Screamers work well for such dicey aid placements. It would be a clean fall anyway.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: I was just wondering if bolts were added to the original route. I'm not really interested in your opinion, but thanks anyway. Yes. Before this most recent 'incarnation', there were a couple of 1/4 inch buttonheads added to the belay above the triple overhangs. There might have been others, but those stick out in my mind. [ 05-10-2002, 02:02 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: I think that the anchors have been replaced, and many of the lead bolts above the tripple roofs...but I'm not sure if there were any new ones added. Scottp??? My opinion on this subject is in the minority so I'm not going to go there.

.22, .27, .17 What colors were you all using? For a scientific comparison there are a number of variables that would need to be controlled; color being the most obvious.

Pillowy 2-ply burns too hot. More likelihood of starting a brush fire if used correctly. It does, however, have the advantage of curtailing the dreaded poke-through.

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: yes C2 standard clean aid gear for classic aid routes, offset stuff for pin scars Yes Lambone has the word. To bad you didn't do it 10 years ago; then you could have used fred's old bolts. scetchfest! You will just have to settle for retrobolt bullshit. Don't get me started...in my opinion, the route should have been left alone. [ 05-10-2002, 07:37 AM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

You don't really even need the offset stuff.

quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: Heh ScottP, it takes three days hard work with a fine tooth comb and a Captain Crunch decoder ring before the random blabberings that make up your "flames" even resemble anything other than the smashing of a keyboard, you shitchomping short sighted yak raper. If you care to check http://wrybread.com/burningman99/chapter4/ each of my responses (including the "fuc off luv evil cave boy " ) were gleaned from the site where you stole the idea for the "What is it?" thread. What a nitwit. [ 05-09-2002, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Does anyone know of a 5.8 route at Index? Have fun glen... Only the ones I've done: The first pitch of The Ave. The first pitch of the G-M route The Lizard Both variations of the first pitch of Even Steven

It's a legless Candle-Eating Lizard Um..no..wait... The genitalia of a right whale? No, it's...it's... a watch band. You're trying to see what time it is but you're holding your watch upside down. It looks to me like a Jenny Craig deeee-luxe Monica Lewinsky starter kit. And that's my final answer. "fuc off luv evil cave boy "

quote: Originally posted by Matt: (snip) So please stop your nonsense spray fest and tell me your favorite story about Yosemite. My friend Rob and I got crowded off the Regular route on Half Dome a few years back. For him the route became a Sysiphean obsession. He learned a lot from our experience and went back, taking on a decidedly french attitude about passing slower parties: “Ask politely once and then start clipping their gear”. Having heard of a friends experience with bears eating the food of Half Dome aspirants, Rob and his partner, Dave, hung their food forty feet up the first pitch. In the middle of the night Rob was awakened by noises. Shining his headlamp at the foodbag, he found it was being swiped at by a full grown bear that had liebacked the first forty feet and was hanging by a side-pull while trying to get the bag with the other paw. I know Rob pretty well, and what he did next cemented my understanding of just how much he coveted this route; he got out of his bag, put on his shoes, walked over and plugged the bear in the back of the head with a baseball-sized rock. The bear lost it’s grip and took a sliding forty footer to the ground. Rob says that at that point he just knew that bear was going to rip him to shreds. It didn’t though. It merely shook its head, looked at Rob and walked off. Rob went back to bed and lay there very much awake. Every few minutes he would sit up and shine his light on the food bag. On one of these occasions, he noticed the food bag doing a jig and shining his light on the ground below it saw the bear yarding on the fixed rope in it’s teeth with all of it’s weight. Rob got up, put on his shoes and plugged the bear with another rock. This time the bear looked at Rob for a while. Rob was sure the bear was deciding whether or not it was worth it to eat him alive. Apparently deciding it wasn’t, the bear left again. Eventually drifting off to sleep, Rob and Dave got up just before dawn. Jugging up to get the food bag for breakfast, Rob was nailed square in the forehead by a can of tuna. Apparently the bear’s first attempt had ripped open the food bag. Upon inspection, Rob and Dave found that most of their food, including more than thirty Power Bars was gone. Without food, the climb was knackered. At that point Rob decided that the Regular-Route-on-Half-Dome-chips were stacked against him. Dave, already suffering from scale-induced “stomach problems”, agreed that it was not to be. They packed up and for the second, and last time, Rob walked away from the base of Half Dome.

quote: Originally posted by Steamer: (snip of a short attempt at a comeback) By the way there is some truth to the origins of a Steamer. What, you're a fresh turd in the morning? Maybe you need to lay off the caffeine.

quote: Originally posted by Poseur: Asking...begging...buying...what's the difference? Asking: You've already spent a lot of money. Begging: You can't afford to spend enough. Buying:You're too butt ugly to do anything else.

I'm afraid it's the nature of the beast; i.e. you get what you pay for. BTW: A 'steamer' is slang for a fresh turd on a cold morning. [ 05-09-2002, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: (snip) Lambone - has never placed a bolt in his life. (snip) I would guess that: a)you haven't been climbing very long. b)you haven't done much in the way of first ascents.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Hey Charlie, I left a braille version of the topo up at the base of Snow Creek Wall for you. You can start reading/feeling the topo right at the base of the big tree with a dead top that is shaped like an "S".

quote: Originally posted by chucK: (snip) I've always suspected that ScottP's mythical "Beckey" shortcut to SCW was just a ruse, spammed to E-climbers, to send them off on a bushwhack while he himself got ahead of them by taking the normal trail. Much like the scenario Pope is now playing. Jeez, Pope, you don't even have original material! Yeah, that's the ticket! And I've seen Morgan Fairchild naked... There is no Beckey Shortcut. It is a ruse. Fred blazed those 26 switchbacks himself.

This being one of the most popular alpine routes in the state, expect crowds. (Avoid weekends like the plague.) A small, comprehensive rack should be sufficient to protect the route if you are proficient leading up to 5.6 (there are ways to avoid even the 5.6) Be ready for snow on the approach to the route.

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: So, no topo??? You're joking, right?! You can't go wrong with Chuck's beta.

quote: Originally posted by JayB: (Snip) Just having some fun here – and I think Lambone has a point. Launching into tirades about how bolts desecrate the environment and then bragging about the new convenience trail that you’ve blazed up instead of taking the existing trail is the literal definition of “glaring contradiction.” Hopefully we’ll be spared the “I condemn bolting because I am the epitome of the environmentally conscious climber” line from now on. [/QB] I have reread this post a couple of times and I still can't find just where there is actually a mention of how to access this "Pearly Back Door" approach to SC Wall, other than it starts from the Pearly Gates. Every time I go up to SC Wall, I use what I call the "Beckey Approach". This approach shaves off all but two of the switchbacks (and gets me first on any route I am wanting to do ). Every time I go up there I look for signs of my, or anyone else's previous passing, but I find none. An approach without a trail does not a "blaze" make, if it is a personal one. Me thinks this was a damn fine troll.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: malapropism n : the unintentional misuse of a word by confusion with one that sounds similar Yup, but I think you know what I meant...you gotta love MS Word. Sorry you think what I wrote is just a bunch of wasted bandwith...I suppose you are right. No, I didn't know what you meant to say, but I extrapolated. While I agree with some of what you said, I believe it was wasted bandwidth because you used it to snipe at someone else.

(snip) [ 05-07-2002, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: (snip a bunch of wasted bandwidth) Does anyone else see the hierocracy here, or am I just being a “tool?” Now there's a bit of a malapropism... hierocracy (n) Government by ecclesiastics.

The blues festival in Winthrop is a kickass, though somewhat expensive, diversion in the middle of July somtime. Combined with some of the better WA Pass rock routes, it's a hard to beat combo.