ScottP

Chuck, Now why didn't I think of that? That's why you work at UW and I only work at BTMS.

I just recently finished a 70+ footnail-up of a bigleaf maple in my backyard using vintage but unused soft iron pins I inherited. The anchor was two 12 inch x 1/2 inch galvanized nails driven foot-level low into the trunk and equalized. A length of chain and an old locker got me back to the ground. I didn't do the copious quantitities of brew, but there was some C. sativa involved.

Erik, My intitial post didn't specify where at Index. This winter, and they weren't. I'm not trying to be snide or argue. Just looking for a straight answer. "Use trees" seemed a tad to general and dismissive.

Yeah... like those at the base of the Dark Crystal...or the base of the Waterway area...right, I'll use those. I'm not trying to be argumentative here. Just realistic. Erik..I can't give you specific examples. It was more of a speculative question. And as Lambone sez, I'm referring to when it would be the only good anchor.

I think it might be easier to get an answer to (and therefore answer your question): Which aid routes still have yet to be done clean? I doubt the full Dihedral Route has and though there are now bolts on it, I doubt the second (scoop) pitch, nor the third or fourth pitches of the Zipper are now clean. Other suspects: The Waterway routes, the full Lamplighter, the full Dana's Arch, the Quarry (Orc) Wall route(s)? Surely there are others....

Let's say I wanted to rope solo a clean or free route at Index and the only good anchor I could get at the base included some pins. I'm talking about ground level here; placements that would only affect sit starters. I'm curious about the regarding use of pins in a situation like this.

I first saw this clip link posted on rec.climbing quite a while ago (3 years?). I first heard they survived then. Is it true? I don't know, but with the length of fall and the way they were flopping around, I would have guessed they didn't.

The point I was driving at. Thank you. And mine as well.

Gravity is gravity.

I thought perhaps phrases like "Painful Viewing" and "Very Graphic" would have done the job.

If you watch much local news, you see the results of them all the time. It's a matter of context I guess. I have observed something regarding my students and use of laboratory burners. I 've noticed that when I have shown them the result of hot metal or glass touching something flammable (I use paper), the incidence of minor burns has lessened. Again, my intention wasn't to sicken or sensationalize, but to merely provide a context for the result of not being extra careful and redundant when doing this very dangerous thing we do. If I offended anyone, including you, I am sorry.

Coming from you Trask, that could only be a compliment. It was meant as a reality check. I'm sorry if your sensitive tummy had problems with it.

This video clip might have been linked here before, but it seems like a good example of why we shouldn't be too complacent with what we do, or trust our gear implicitly. Very graphic. Video Clip

Go to it.

On the ridge to the north and east of the summit is much potential for bouldering and short toproping routes. There is a really nice handcrack that splits a 30' face that I've done. From the lake below the north side, traverse east to the top of the ridge. There is also some good bouldering around Bathtub Lakes. It's a great place to hang out on a hot day-boulder a little, swim a little...

Oh, come on Allison. He's such a "man's man". Wait...oh...now I get it.

you must be suffering from the DTs -- I've never been to TV's -- ever. And, If I "owed" someone something I certainly wouldn't repay them by giving their card to YOU! Oh, I remember now -- I gave you the curly redhead's card!!!! He told me you called!!! So Jim Foreman is gay.

I'm pretty sure that's the start of the Prow. That crack on the right is JoJo. Just to the left is the start of the South Face route. Looking down the first pitch

Rattletale. Definately good jamming on that. I can't quite understand liebacking either. I guess it's for people who don't know how to jam.

I've been using my set for up to 18 years now. Some of them have gone through 4 sets of webbing (the ones with the nuts on the ends of the axles.) They are definately indestructable and my only complaint is the extra time needed to get them into horizontal placements. Combined with the 3 smallest HB quadcams and the 3 smallest tcus, I have never desired anything else in the cam department. Well maybe some of those slider nut thingys that I borrowed once that got me through some weird aid moves when nothing else I had would work. It was the weirdest thing; I stuck one into this labia-looking crack. The only way it would stay is if it was so deep that I couldn't see it (n I hate it when that happens.) Stepping on and bouncing was way creepy, but it held.

Yeah... we could try to convince them that martyring themselves will not result in spending eternity in Paradise, being fed honeyed cakes by 67 virgins in a tree-lined garden. We'd have as much luck with that as convincing the Shrub that a war with Iraq is a bad idea.

A four month suspended sentence? That's okay. This is what he'll eventually get.

Thanks for the reminder Chuck. There's nothing more scary than nearly eating it when your alone. Glad you're okay.

What's wrong, Trask? Something wrong with the results of nuclear war? Don't worry, it was probably just some stupid kid. -- FDA This forum isn't the place to showcase it fuckwad. "I am of the mind to use them (nuclear weapons.) Anybody have any thoughts on the matter? Pro or Con? What do people think about the fallout, both physical and political?" You asked...