ScottP

what ever Capt. Semantics. Actually, it's more of a history thing (Is your spring wound a little tight today Erik?)

Oh, now I see. I thought it was a description of someone's kinky Gilligans Island sex fantasy.

I'm confused... Wild Country Friends (newer styles)=single stemTechnical Friends ? Forged Friends are the newer style of rigid stem Friends. Previous to them the rigid stem Friend was cut from solid aluminum stock.

average 101.5 F (38.6 C)

Not much diff between that and your autosig, except maybe his made more sense.

Thanks Chuck. Like I said, if I do it, nobody will ever know. I do like some of the ideas though: As erik said, freeclimbs girth hitch idea was a good one that I hadn't really considered. I liked his dirt and moss trick too. The anchors fifty feet out and the bag of rocks tricks get honorable mention for going that extra mile in championing the more puritanical side of the clean movement at Index. Perhaps they can point me to that climb TimL did with pins at foot level, so I won't leave any beat out placements on that one.

It was a hypothetical situation (yes, I asked on the chance that I would run into such a scenario.) I only asked for opinions due to curiosity. Trust me, if I can get clean gear I will. If I can't, I'll either go do something else or put in some iron. Nobody will be around if I do and nobody will ever see the effects of my "indiscretion". Thanks to all of you for the input, be it helpful or self-righteous.

I saw the break-in story. It took all of maybe two minutes and showed video clips of hikers in a parking lot. Nothing was covered that hasn't been here.

I don't need to. I can just slam in a couple of pins.

On the flipside, if you use half your rack of little nuts building a bomber anchor at the base you could run into problems if you need them higher up.

Your opinion Sloth, some would say it's the best crag in the state. If nailing is a last ditch effort, it seems the lack of a partner would not qualify as a reason to pound. Um... I didn't say I lacked a partner. Nor did I specify the lower town wall. Though I do appreciate your opinions.

You could try saying something like: "Outdoorsy stuff isn't and has never been your thing. You openly admits this. If you are only in it for the 'cute guys', I'm seriously afraid you're gonna hurt me or yourself. I don't want you belaying me or anyone else if you're gonna be trying to pick up guys at the gym/crag at the same time." If you aren't ashamed to think it, you shouldn't be ashamed to say it.

Damn the chestbeating moniker! More TR's.

I'm wondering how the Mole got between Prusik Peak and Toketie Wall. You have to get on top of Edward Mesa to be over by the Mole, and that is not right by Toketie Wall. Also curious as to if anyone has been to Ed Mesa via the drainage slumping to the E of said mesa, unnamed and has no named creek. It appears to be the way up, both from the road and from the top. Please respond or PM. Otherwise I will be forced to endure the heinous bushwhack. If you're travelling from Prusik Pass to the Snow Lake trail via Toketie Lake and Toketie Creek, technically you would pass the Mole as you go over Toketie Pass: At Prusik Pass, looking NE, the Mole is in front of you. At the confluence of Toketie and Snow Creeks, looking NE, the Mole is behind you.

Rattlesnake Lake

I know it's still a ways down the road, but I would like to see the look on the face of the poor fucker who is hanging off one of those when it finally does cut loose.

Chuck, Now why didn't I think of that? That's why you work at UW and I only work at BTMS.

I just recently finished a 70+ footnail-up of a bigleaf maple in my backyard using vintage but unused soft iron pins I inherited. The anchor was two 12 inch x 1/2 inch galvanized nails driven foot-level low into the trunk and equalized. A length of chain and an old locker got me back to the ground. I didn't do the copious quantitities of brew, but there was some C. sativa involved.

Erik, My intitial post didn't specify where at Index. This winter, and they weren't. I'm not trying to be snide or argue. Just looking for a straight answer. "Use trees" seemed a tad to general and dismissive.

Yeah... like those at the base of the Dark Crystal...or the base of the Waterway area...right, I'll use those. I'm not trying to be argumentative here. Just realistic. Erik..I can't give you specific examples. It was more of a speculative question. And as Lambone sez, I'm referring to when it would be the only good anchor.

I think it might be easier to get an answer to (and therefore answer your question): Which aid routes still have yet to be done clean? I doubt the full Dihedral Route has and though there are now bolts on it, I doubt the second (scoop) pitch, nor the third or fourth pitches of the Zipper are now clean. Other suspects: The Waterway routes, the full Lamplighter, the full Dana's Arch, the Quarry (Orc) Wall route(s)? Surely there are others....

Let's say I wanted to rope solo a clean or free route at Index and the only good anchor I could get at the base included some pins. I'm talking about ground level here; placements that would only affect sit starters. I'm curious about the regarding use of pins in a situation like this.

I first saw this clip link posted on rec.climbing quite a while ago (3 years?). I first heard they survived then. Is it true? I don't know, but with the length of fall and the way they were flopping around, I would have guessed they didn't.

The point I was driving at. Thank you. And mine as well.

Gravity is gravity.