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Cpt.Caveman

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Everything posted by Cpt.Caveman

  1. I have only one headlamp works for everything - Ideal There are other ones similar so I am not pushing this product out as a must buy. But when I did buy it it was the only one of it's kind that I could find. Still works fine and is small.
  2. I bolted a rap station 2 years ago- I dont understand I guess I'll put in some more bolts when I get there... If you're fat and climb slow there is no discussion of words in the speed climbing community it seems. It's a word of theirs or it's a word of theirs. Last time I met one of the said party he was more interested in being a self loather. That's not Colin or Sean-not mentioning names. Bummer people are like that. I expect more hate mail and dis.
  3. How is that ideal and why? I see the comments about rope chopping but no real comment of truth trying another option- skeptic. You mention lots of details about a descent route you did not descend??. I am not being a jerk just curious that you are not giving the info people might be seeking. I see you note taking slings... I interpret that as discover your own descent based upon Daylward experiences. Not being arrogant but what's the deal>>? The only thing I can gather is bring lots of slings if you want to descend and dont rely on others. That's a norm for some and me... -RB
  4. Miloshk and I actually climbed a good route in BC recently. That fucker is a fun climbing partner. Aside from his shitty accent which is half of the fun when communicating- Miloshk is talented. We managed a fine route. For all the lovers I climbed the southwest face of mount jimmy last week. Although my work is hindering plans I always find a worthy summit as I hope you all do. What's next folks! I heard that Slesse round 3 is in order. <My guess is Drew will bag out. I'm not monitoring shit so all those people that still hold grudges fuck off---> that means the sorry ass bitch at 2nd bounce with an attitude- mind you I was actually cordial with this idiot.
  5. Enjoy brutha. I hope you take some pics for all to share. If not fuck it. It's hard to take pics sometimes....
  6. The ones that take me 3-5 tries. Even then though- they end up usually being good. It's usually the weather or a learning curve.
  7. Beauty of a mountain. Even if you climb any route.......
  8. Of course we did a good job. Layton assisted a bit and I confrimed with him about the idea beforehand. I asked if I could use his name here and he is ok with that. Check it out! It's a beaut. BTW if you get your ropes caught in Libra Crack you are throwing them in the wrong direction. Besides who cares. I pulled lots of bushes and big trundle of death rocks at crags before. It's not like someone should deserve a chestbeating slap on the back for it. Most of the time I found it is in the interest of the party ascending. But thanks for it everyone else out there. We even spit shined the crack so a bomber cam will go in. If you cant put that cam in then try harder. It's not like it's a 5.10 death route with no pro. I had a bet that Erik would be one of the first foos to complain. I was RIGHT.
  9. On subject original- EDK is fine. Notes above are pretty good. Agree 2 different diameters notes. Otherwise bring the FIFI hook and rubber band for a special.
  10. It works and that is what I am talking about above.. It's just fucking scary...
  11. It's like asking to get punched in the gonads. I'm waiting for Mountaineers books to publish a book by Peter Pubic about how climbing ethics should work. Better yet just write a long boring article to climbing and we can all wipe our ass with it. Nice website. Next time I'm in there buying goods at least put the gloves on and go a round.
  12. You should check out the pms special-- Fifi hook rappel. I'm not the only fool scared of it. I heard bobinc and company made a bunch of them on some mountain too. Especially when your anchor is fingernail sized stopper. I checked out Forrest and Westman doing an interesting rappell from an ice climb in BC from a twisted up dead looking bush. As to the size of w I'm still amazed to this day it held. We opted for the big ass tree 50 feet to the right. Maybe there should be a braggarts discussion of the shitties rap anchors or rappel situations. Obviously the ones where nobody was hurt and the nerves were tweaked
  13. I doubt it sees half the traffic of any other route. It's pretty intimidating in person. The McClane book has some very detailed arial photos and is probably the standard guidebook for the mountain. Although I think the Lowe route looks pretty cool and heard the winter routes up there are good too.
  14. Tough stuff. I'm content climbing the ski routes.
  15. I am a lesbian looking for more girl climbing partners. Can I show at your party too!!!!?
  16. Fossil Rock- Reason- There aint nuttin else near there. But if you live and die in Tacoma you might visit. I'm not cappin on anyone that does or puts up routes there. It's just an opinion. Some other shitty routes: Anything in Toulomne Meadows or Lovers Leap
  17. Hello sea creature - Thanks for the tape holds. I am not very very very fit person nor am I implying routes form the pictured side of the mountain are the standard ones. And yes it was taken from Marble Creek cirque. I will be removing taped holds. If I left at 3:01 do you think I would make it in a day?
  18. Oh my, that brings up many more questions that you must answer before my beta can be of any value to you: 1) Do you realize your hairnet will get tangled in your hobnails? What steps are you going to take to prevent that? 2) Do you want to do it car-to-car in a day? 3) Could you stand on the upper McAllister glacier and point toward where you think Dorado Needle is and be confident you're pointing to the correct peak? Anyway, to prevent this from drawing out any longer than it absolutely has to, I'll assume you've found a solution to question number 1). If your answer to question 2) is anything other than "absolutely", make sure you bring overnight gear. If your answer to 3) is anything other than "absolutely", make sure you take the proper measures to enhance your knowledge of the terrain, then ask yourself question 3) again. Repeat as many times as necessary. Once this is done, you should go straight away before the terrain changes. Attain your previous position on the McAllister glacier in roughly the same way you did before. When it comes time to camp, I recommend doing so at the col between the Inspiration and McAllister glaciers (near the Tepeh Towers). Make sure you don't fall into crevasses, and that you know how to get yourself out of crevasses if you accidentally do. Once you have attained your position on the McAllister glacier, point at Dorado Needle and begin walking towards it, following the easiest possible path (which should be obvious to you, considering how enhanced your knowledge of the terrain should be by this time). When you reach the rock, begin climbing up it, making sure you limit yourself to the taped holds, and liberally applying chalk to all damp areas you encounter. Soon you will be on the summit, which should be a condition that satisfies your stated goal. Any questions? If I remove the taped holds does that mean I will increase the rating for future ascents? What's the extra beta for car to car in a day? Yes I can identify the Mountain. It looks like this last time I saw it.
  19. you've posted what? 4 trs about your little weekend adventure, and still havent been able to articulate what the heck you did oh i guess complete thoughts get taught in the second grade, nevermind, i'll wait until next year That's ok I dont care to offer any info for dumbfucks like you. It's been a long time since I've seen ya post. WHat happened a stick get caught in your ass?
  20. That's a different definition.
  21. You cannot hide that avatar from me. I know who you are. We figured slime hooks are useless once the napalm does it's deed.
  22. My plan is to bring one piton one sling a hair net and some kiss army boots with hobnails in the bottoms. I am look to climb the standard route. I have been to McAllister glacier before.
  23. Next time we'll be bringing a mortar tube and some napalm rounds to fire up the mountain in front of us. Except for that one tree
  24. Behold that is the tree that held Nathan's whipper.
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