Cpt.Caveman

I dont understand what you are asking exactly but I'll try. There was a nerve racking schrund crossing on rotten snow and ice bs then lots of steep snow to rocks. Skirted up and left to a good ledge via a gulley. Then up and right to ridge crest passing ice and steep snow. The snow on the east side was a lot more shitty than on the north side of the buttress crest.. A short arete leads up to a rock belay stance on snow. Traversing left one pitch and a belay was set on a good rock ledge. Matt found a clever way by 5th class climbing between the wet overhanging rock to another rock belay. Bill ventured back onto the ridge crest via some mixed climbing snow and some rock to another ledge. David and I climbed with a running belay at the end to make pitches longer on rotten snow and some loose rocks. Another easy pitch lead to the summit ridge. Our descent took longer than expected down the Dudra route. I believe more snow would make the descent twice as fast. Most of the climbing lies on the east side of the buttress crest. By the way - the photo I called Resplendence is actually Mt Stupendous - Beckey says it has shitty rock. We spotted 3 grizzly bears and bald eagles. I will post some photos of the rock walls of Bella Coola as well some time during the week.

Unnamed - we called it Flat Top Mountain - Probably unclimbed.

Mt Resplendance hiding behind clouds-

Beckey Snoozing

David Parker looking north towards Cerberus and Basin Peak.

Monarch Mountain lenticular-

David on Route

Last weekend - Matt Perkins, David Parker, Bill Pilling and I climbed a fine possible new route on the rarely climbed Princess Mountain on the southern end of the Monarch Icefield. The Northeast Buttress show in attached photo. We managed to also climb a 9100ft peak (possible first ascent no difficulties) we named the Turtlehead while scouting from Monarch West across the Bodra - Dudra Pass finding passage again west nearly directly towards Princess Mtn. The route is about a thousand feet long or so of rock, snow, ice, mixed terrain. We felt it was worth mentioning for others to climb if interested. We believe we made the first traverse east to west of the summit ridge and that this may be the only second route on the mountain at this time.

Trask is only ok because he is real. Real meaning he is not afraid of the biased piece of shit moderators and posts what he thinks is right. There is nothing wrong with that.

I've never had interest in this popular tower. I'm sure there is a tiny amount of fun there. But the hype is about as much as some of the so called classics of Smoots Book - Full of shit -. Instantly stupid bolt climbs are classics but the 5.6 next to it are 20 times better. BTW Smoot books are full of shit- he may mock beckey (note beckey has errors) but smoot has never been to half the areas he mentions in his books I bet. It's just plagiarism at it's finest to make money. Climb a pitch at peshastin and you'll find your fix.

Everyone has their bitch. Or maybe a couple of them. To admit is one thing - to boast we all do. I'm only hoping for luck. I can find many routes in pristine conditions but to find them in sporting conditions too is another note.

Probably not the ones you are doing.

So with stupidity and fitness I managed another climb that I would be sure to be an overnight climb. I an only relish for so long I suppose... But now I find more of them challenges and they may have a rating but some are way beyond a rating in comparison. Sure one will take you one day but the next will take you in so much pain... I am not loathing. I am not inviting. I am only expressing. Climb them and if you think your rating is someting to be noted then think again. BTW FUCK OFF

First of all Dave is the geekiest piece of shit I know here. Now I will post: So one day I met a dude that said he knew how to set up anchors to climb rocks. Later we figured out how to place protection including cams without getting hurt. I took a fall on a Beckey piton later on, and bolts and cams.. I thought I was a 5.10 climber since I could lead certain routes at smith rox and slabs etc. But I learned that there was another type of climbing following crack systems (incipient sometimes) and had no bolts. This part was an adventure sometimes with a noteworthy introduction of things by a good friend. However he knew nothing about mountain climbing and had no experience more than 3 pitches with bolt anchors. We climbed well together but he was the mentor… Not accidentally but looking for a certain mountain route we decided to climb something new. I was happy but not exasperated. It was fine climbing but a second option…. I took a break from climbing but read some books always about the PNW. The Nelson books always seemed to have the most intriguing routes. They offered winter climbs summer walk ups and big wall or whatever. What other inspiration would you need? I am not much of an explorer.. While on my 3 year break I slung boxes and cursed people’s fitness. I drove a forklift and drove people mad. Eventually I returned to the land of glaciers and shitty winter weather. I had no interest in skiing on return. I lived in an apartment and paid my bills but daily I would hike the nearest summits. I got high on my hikes and thrived on moving faster sometimes.. I became more fit. I desired some of those mountains I was scared of. Eventually I found those mountains I was scared of to be reasonable goals. They were merely a game with weather and partners. But when I did find those mountain tops they were good experiences. Nothing to be forgotten… I could climb one mountain in a mere 3.75 hours hungover that I thought would surely be overnight on the whim of my partner’s comments. I’m still surprised I was gullible enough to go forward with it. But it was October and we left down to the car in daylight. I guess we were not that slow. Later I was looking at a nice ice route on a large mountain face. It was irresistible but scary. I didn’t do it then but waited until late season to get afraid of snow conditions. I was learning about snow.. Traveling to other mountain ranges made me learn more. It’s a bond between the mountain and person because the mountain can shit someone out like a blue bag. I learned more rock types and it was fun. The infamous black band was formidable to say the least. It offered climbing more than I was ready for. Rating was a joke. Now I am looking at a mountain. I see large features and so called weaknesses. I know the mountain holds thousands of secrets and witnesses to some of them. You can make a rating. There are no bolts here and sometimes there are no ice screws to place or good pitons. Find yourself. If I fail to climb this summit I am still happy to enjoy the local environment and my success is only measured upon fun. Some may climb it with ease and some may criticize me but it matters not since I was there to have fun. That day I learned to not die placing that cam was the beginning.

If you dont love cameltoe you must die unless you are female. There are some nice death camps for you in Africa.

You're relatively a piece of shit.

I have a thule bike rack in my garage- I'll be on vacation for a while starting sunday. If you want it it fits 2 bikes on the back of most cars and is less than 4 months old FOR A BORROW. Ask Crack and Dr.Jay for diros to my house or for them to pick it up. Crack is picking up my bike tentatively this weekend. I wont be using it. They got the inside scoop on the cave where I live and like I said in garage- Crack knows where the keys are. You can use it for a couple of months if needed - I just need it back. I usually ride my bikes from home now and rarely use it.

What happened to Knee Wrecker Chimney?

and your mother too. DFA and Offwhite can eat turds out of the closest honey bucket for dinner.

I lieback the start to Toxic shock every time. But it would never surprise me that some people could climb "with real skill" not doing so. Broken aliens are not nice. Another note: I wouldnt doubt Texplorer would solo it.......

Crossbows are aid

You fawkin chestbeater It's like 2 MORE WEEKS till I go Cheers my friend - If I see you somehow on our way out I'll be sure to kick you and AlpineKunt in the gonads with my crampons on. Sorry Ray I'm not into the same kinky stuff you are. Have a good trip! You too you closet freak

I spent thursday launching computer monitors over the railing and down 5 stories into the concrete below. ALL DAY!! It was joyous

We're still undecided on "exactly" where we might end up. It could be a couple of locations but if you could forward me Funk's email so I can badger him that would sure be nice.

You fawkin chestbeater It's like 2 MORE WEEKS till I go Cheers my friend - If I see you somehow on our way out I'll be sure to kick you and AlpineKunt in the gonads with my crampons on.