Cpt.Caveman

Beckey Snoozing

David Parker looking north towards Cerberus and Basin Peak.

Monarch Mountain lenticular-

David on Route

Last weekend - Matt Perkins, David Parker, Bill Pilling and I climbed a fine possible new route on the rarely climbed Princess Mountain on the southern end of the Monarch Icefield. The Northeast Buttress show in attached photo. We managed to also climb a 9100ft peak (possible first ascent no difficulties) we named the Turtlehead while scouting from Monarch West across the Bodra - Dudra Pass finding passage again west nearly directly towards Princess Mtn. The route is about a thousand feet long or so of rock, snow, ice, mixed terrain. We felt it was worth mentioning for others to climb if interested. We believe we made the first traverse east to west of the summit ridge and that this may be the only second route on the mountain at this time.

Trask is only ok because he is real. Real meaning he is not afraid of the biased piece of shit moderators and posts what he thinks is right. There is nothing wrong with that.

I've never had interest in this popular tower. I'm sure there is a tiny amount of fun there. But the hype is about as much as some of the so called classics of Smoots Book - Full of shit -. Instantly stupid bolt climbs are classics but the 5.6 next to it are 20 times better. BTW Smoot books are full of shit- he may mock beckey (note beckey has errors) but smoot has never been to half the areas he mentions in his books I bet. It's just plagiarism at it's finest to make money. Climb a pitch at peshastin and you'll find your fix.

Everyone has their bitch. Or maybe a couple of them. To admit is one thing - to boast we all do. I'm only hoping for luck. I can find many routes in pristine conditions but to find them in sporting conditions too is another note.

Probably not the ones you are doing.

So with stupidity and fitness I managed another climb that I would be sure to be an overnight climb. I an only relish for so long I suppose... But now I find more of them challenges and they may have a rating but some are way beyond a rating in comparison. Sure one will take you one day but the next will take you in so much pain... I am not loathing. I am not inviting. I am only expressing. Climb them and if you think your rating is someting to be noted then think again. BTW FUCK OFF

First of all Dave is the geekiest piece of shit I know here. Now I will post: So one day I met a dude that said he knew how to set up anchors to climb rocks. Later we figured out how to place protection including cams without getting hurt. I took a fall on a Beckey piton later on, and bolts and cams.. I thought I was a 5.10 climber since I could lead certain routes at smith rox and slabs etc. But I learned that there was another type of climbing following crack systems (incipient sometimes) and had no bolts. This part was an adventure sometimes with a noteworthy introduction of things by a good friend. However he knew nothing about mountain climbing and had no experience more than 3 pitches with bolt anchors. We climbed well together but he was the mentor… Not accidentally but looking for a certain mountain route we decided to climb something new. I was happy but not exasperated. It was fine climbing but a second option…. I took a break from climbing but read some books always about the PNW. The Nelson books always seemed to have the most intriguing routes. They offered winter climbs summer walk ups and big wall or whatever. What other inspiration would you need? I am not much of an explorer.. While on my 3 year break I slung boxes and cursed people’s fitness. I drove a forklift and drove people mad. Eventually I returned to the land of glaciers and shitty winter weather. I had no interest in skiing on return. I lived in an apartment and paid my bills but daily I would hike the nearest summits. I got high on my hikes and thrived on moving faster sometimes.. I became more fit. I desired some of those mountains I was scared of. Eventually I found those mountains I was scared of to be reasonable goals. They were merely a game with weather and partners. But when I did find those mountain tops they were good experiences. Nothing to be forgotten… I could climb one mountain in a mere 3.75 hours hungover that I thought would surely be overnight on the whim of my partner’s comments. I’m still surprised I was gullible enough to go forward with it. But it was October and we left down to the car in daylight. I guess we were not that slow. Later I was looking at a nice ice route on a large mountain face. It was irresistible but scary. I didn’t do it then but waited until late season to get afraid of snow conditions. I was learning about snow.. Traveling to other mountain ranges made me learn more. It’s a bond between the mountain and person because the mountain can shit someone out like a blue bag. I learned more rock types and it was fun. The infamous black band was formidable to say the least. It offered climbing more than I was ready for. Rating was a joke. Now I am looking at a mountain. I see large features and so called weaknesses. I know the mountain holds thousands of secrets and witnesses to some of them. You can make a rating. There are no bolts here and sometimes there are no ice screws to place or good pitons. Find yourself. If I fail to climb this summit I am still happy to enjoy the local environment and my success is only measured upon fun. Some may climb it with ease and some may criticize me but it matters not since I was there to have fun. That day I learned to not die placing that cam was the beginning.

If you dont love cameltoe you must die unless you are female. There are some nice death camps for you in Africa.

You're relatively a piece of shit.

What happened to Knee Wrecker Chimney?

and your mother too. DFA and Offwhite can eat turds out of the closest honey bucket for dinner.

I lieback the start to Toxic shock every time. But it would never surprise me that some people could climb "with real skill" not doing so. Broken aliens are not nice. Another note: I wouldnt doubt Texplorer would solo it.......

Crossbows are aid

You fawkin chestbeater It's like 2 MORE WEEKS till I go Cheers my friend - If I see you somehow on our way out I'll be sure to kick you and AlpineKunt in the gonads with my crampons on. Sorry Ray I'm not into the same kinky stuff you are. Have a good trip! You too you closet freak

I spent thursday launching computer monitors over the railing and down 5 stories into the concrete below. ALL DAY!! It was joyous

We're still undecided on "exactly" where we might end up. It could be a couple of locations but if you could forward me Funk's email so I can badger him that would sure be nice.

You fawkin chestbeater It's like 2 MORE WEEKS till I go Cheers my friend - If I see you somehow on our way out I'll be sure to kick you and AlpineKunt in the gonads with my crampons on.

I don't understand your first point that the bolts are for saftey. Are you suggesting that it's ok as long as it makes a climb safer? Why not fix a line and move a jumar up as you climb? On your second point regarding the mountains, I strongly disagree. If a route is established and typically climbed without fixed protection, (Alpine or Crag), who am I to put a bolt in and "dumb it down" for the next, stronger climber than I am. I'll back off before I put a bolt in to compensate for my lack of ability to repeat a route and climb something easier. Maybe I'm just being nieve and my opinion will change with more experience. But, right now I don't see the line between why certain bolts next to cracks are acceptable and some aren't so I'm satisfied just listen and learn. I guess it's not all black and white, just pastey and gray like my belly. Quit pickin on the fat kids. The only responses seem to be - You aint climbed this or that or enough or very long. It doesn't take long for some people to form their own opinions.

2 days until launch into killer mountainous trip. I'm sure some of you'll be glad to see me off. Feelings are mutual.

mike, glad to hear you're a bad ass in sunglasses. i'm trying to look cool/tough myself lately so i'm wondering exactly what make and model of shades you're wearing so i can sport the same look so to speak. gotta keep up with the "in" trends if you know what i mean. thanks. your pal, greg Gregory, Heard you fell off something and died. Guess I'll have to hold off on the celebration called "tribute to an internet tool". Well according to the letter from Sue we found on top of mailbox peak, you should only accept fashion advice from your butt buddy Phil. Seems you follow him around like a puppy dog. Take care-your pal, Mike Said so well. People like him are busy trying to make a name for themselves it's fucking stupid. I wear FUCK OFF tm brand sunglasses. Take a close look in person -there is a big fucking fist ready to fly atcha.

Amen Brother