Cpt.Caveman

36 DDD

I think the one near bella coola looked better....

I'd have to agree with that. Although I thought the dihedrals to the right looked 20 times better.

I had to resize it 6 or 8 times before I could upload it. It very well could be 10 pitches. I just dont know.. There's a whole bunch of slabs and walls up there like Powell River. Dru has done a route near there called Snootli Express but I dont think it's on the wall I posted a picture of. Too bad the summers are short up there. But some of the climbing info might be available (I suspect sketchy) in Lyle's Central BC book but dont quote me on that.

There are routes.

Fred has a rib injury. No he did not climb with us but his spirits and personality kept us going well. I hope he has a good recovery. In fact he pulled a black book beckey last minute try to hijack to another mountain trick. As we flew over the proposed mountain we discovered to our suspicion that the mountain looked awesome but would not require the time we had available and also that it offered way less in the interest of terrain and vicinity to other climbs. I wish as others do on the trip to return and climb the mountain intended by him. I suspect Serl will find it and climb it though. But maybe not. We did meet Mickey Schurr and Pat Callis though.. - Chestbeating-

He seemed ok to me.

Bummer. Hope he heals well and soon. I can see the point lummox is making- Information supplied is contradicting. Scott I find it kind of silly that you felt compelled to post the rescue photos on the internet like you were a news agent trying to get a story. That's pretty lame IMHO.

duct tape and an empty can fixes more things than the handy man. This was already tried with failing results.

sphinxcter boy- I am not here for a popularity contest. I think it's pretty easy to find iain.

Gore-tex is a ripoff. They got me a long time ago. I'm not going to throw away my jacket but the next purchase will not be gore-tex. Most likely rubber or nylon. A lot of the so called waterproof breathables are just ripoffs in my mind. You sweat you get wet. It rains you still get wet. Mattp has a perfect rubber jacket I wish I had. I'll just wait until I have too many holes in my jacket until I get one.

I think I've added what I thought. If you want your face splattered in blood keep posting. I'm bored and looking for a fight.

Read above to enlighten yourself. This isnt wasnt nor will be your megamid. You also were not there. Typical jackass fag online spraying about shit he doesnt know about.

I can read smart guy. You implied you were surprised it broke. Perhaps you should try non selective reading and dropping the know it all shithead tude.

It's aluminum and hallow. I dont know the setup you have but you also were not witness to the storm either.

It definitely wasnt faulty materials and having no argument to base that on is likely not to work. In a nutshell that pole was not designed for the punishment it put up with. All in all I was impressed that the megamid was not ripped into 20 pieces and scattered down the glacier the next morning. That's a fucking ridiculous price for a soda pop can aluminum pole. Good luck.

Wedge has nice postion and features for a good mountain. I'd climb it again. Which means it must be good because lots of supposed good mountain routes I would pass up for a second climb. I bet it was fun

If I show I will be happy to not see allison there. Keep the ban going. Thanks.

This is a discussion board. Spray will be around. Get over it.

Ok it may be useless now if you are there or on the return but I have used a license and birth certificate for about 8 years now. Never had a problem yet. Whether they ask for it or not is another question. If you go without ID then expect to be turned around if you are unlucky. Yes I have had times when I was not asked much at all or evern for ID going both ways.. But then other times it was different. Maybe we should bomb canada and make roads into the Icefields and also log the shit out of the place so we can have trails.

Danke- It's not a sick new route for sure. I am not that good of a climber but it will provide challenging climbing for most moderate climbers like myself. It was all Perkins' idea anyway.. Attached is a photo of Beckey contemplating weather on Monarch Mountain This photo of Matt's looks real good too.

Turtlehead

I dont understand what you are asking exactly but I'll try. There was a nerve racking schrund crossing on rotten snow and ice bs then lots of steep snow to rocks. Skirted up and left to a good ledge via a gulley. Then up and right to ridge crest passing ice and steep snow. The snow on the east side was a lot more shitty than on the north side of the buttress crest.. A short arete leads up to a rock belay stance on snow. Traversing left one pitch and a belay was set on a good rock ledge. Matt found a clever way by 5th class climbing between the wet overhanging rock to another rock belay. Bill ventured back onto the ridge crest via some mixed climbing snow and some rock to another ledge. David and I climbed with a running belay at the end to make pitches longer on rotten snow and some loose rocks. Another easy pitch lead to the summit ridge. Our descent took longer than expected down the Dudra route. I believe more snow would make the descent twice as fast. Most of the climbing lies on the east side of the buttress crest. By the way - the photo I called Resplendence is actually Mt Stupendous - Beckey says it has shitty rock. We spotted 3 grizzly bears and bald eagles. I will post some photos of the rock walls of Bella Coola as well some time during the week.

Unnamed - we called it Flat Top Mountain - Probably unclimbed.

Mt Resplendance hiding behind clouds-