Cpt.Caveman

Latest 2003 rumor is that the pocket glacier is bypassable. Which means you can approach it via other means. If that is true - then I recommend going to the Propller Cairn then dropping down on grass and heather slopes below the East Buttress and then up through trees and bushes --- really easy to the spot. I am not sure about the amount of the pocket glacier that has slid but if it's enough then only sneakers are required maximum to get to the bypass route start- the one I took when I knew how to rock climb. Otherwise if you follow my directions then the glacier will present itself in good form as soon as you get there and you will be forced to deal with it. If I was to go for it tomorrow - I would not bring anything more than sneakers based upon reports. Go early so shit doesnt fall on you.

Thanks Dru

Im not interested in the gore tex as I am the ruggedness and multi use. I think the shoe I am looking has no claim to gore tex.

THanks TimL that's PRECISELY along the lines of the skepticism expressed to me by a bud in the industry of climbing gear about Garmont. I'll pass.

I didnt take it as any sort of criticism in a bad way nor was actually responding directly to your climbs or anyone else's. The waterfalls running down the "easier" portion didnt seem the way to go the day we were there. In retrospect I think we could have still climbed on despite my buddies fall. But I laid that decision as a group decision as I am not an asshole and respect fellow partner's decisions - that maybe it wasnt for us that day. I am fine with that and if anyone wants to ctricize the definition of on or off route that's ok. I am not a good climber and seek the easiest way if I can. I also acknowledge there are multiple routes up there to the goods. Some of them may hold their own secrets though. I dont think there was squabbling or much discussion about the "way" to go that day as far as judgement is concerned. Some had climbed bigger mountains under more dire circumstances - not me. If someone wanted to climb the 3rd class waterfall I would have left sooner. If nobody fell down then it might be done. I took the experience as a - get out of here sign. If someone doesn't beleive in those sort of things that's ok. THere is no hardman quota for me. Still- I will be back. I have heard many good climber friends give me more info that is useful and some mentione it took them 3 tries. Robertm nice photos. I am glad you shared.

Any time my partner falls down a ways and is a little hurt (many interpretations of hurt) I might just think it could be time to go away. Cheers to all the climbs it sees this summer. If you dont like bush crawling or scrambling then just don't do it.

It's a nice mountain. I think the original climb by Tom Miller was a great achievement. Cheers to him

How long have people owned them?

To climb some of the other peaks in the area and then ignore this one is why to some I would suspect. It's an imposing looking piece or work. All the other peaks in the vicinity don't have anything quite like the relief and the short approach.. If you see it yourself some day say- on your way to Forbidden for instance it helps. i have no quibble with the mountain but i wondered why mattp was saying a thousand foot moss gully was better route choice than a ridge crest. like, don't take the NE buttress crest of slesse, take the Beckey ramps - SOO Much more herbivorous!!!! Because- 1: You have to see for yourself. Go look at it time and time again after climbing nearby peaks for several seasons and then it might "interest" you. 2: My main point was not what route was best but that the mountain is hard to ignore for some. My personal feelings are that the NE Buttress is the route I want to do. If you want to climb the other ways that's fine.

To climb some of the other peaks in the area and then ignore this one is why to some I would suspect. It's an imposing looking piece or work. All the other peaks in the vicinity don't have anything quite like the relief and the short approach.. If you see it yourself some day say- on your way to Forbidden for instance it helps.

What's the deal from this shoe. I've heard only one good comment and no bad specifically about it. I have some garmont sneakers but a boot is different in make and design. Heard from a positive source that some of the older designs were not that good for multiple reasons. Who's got a pair and for how long? Discuss.

I think it's Fluted in the cards.. I wish I could go But my trip is coming soon enough.

I agree - but with the effort he obviously put into ROG I doubt there will ever be a second volume. I would presume he is working on something like the 100 best climbs of NA according to FB but that's just bs rumors hehe. I await the next book release by FB since he is always a good writer and source of information. I hear he is working on *something already* but we'll see! Let the surprise make us all happy.... I think with his knowledge he can outdo 50 Classic Climbs of NA if he tries. No te that some of that book was info from him hehe.

I converted to real stoves a while back. I was once a staunch user of msr. I prefer primus or even gigapower (I sold to some alias here and am still mad but needed the money at the time) The best expedition stove is still the bad ass double burner coleman with bottles.

I dont know bob but fuck off bob if you are still in euro land. Toodle-oo. If you know Chriskoz then tell him i say hi. Fucker is probably on mount shithole -aka the big one in Zealand this winter or summer depending on what part of the land u live in.

ditto I'll buy the beer or the coca cola. Whatever it takes... I bleive the caveman and lowell have met. hehe. I am pretty sure you didnt think I was obnoxious as I am on the internet. haha. But I think terrible ted is right.

I agree- KL is a cool mofo. I cannot outdrink him so I must hail to the king. As far as Doorish is in climbing for cascades- well- look at the difficult routes over a continuouse time. Sometimes solo.... But that's another era too. Chic Scott does have a good book.!

Bummer- I am no writer. Cheers to your plans- I'd expect skiing and climbing can go hand in hand sometimes..... Good to hear Tom Miller is still out there doing good things. Tough man.... I dont research any skiing I just flop on the snow and hope to have fun. I do think some of the ski things being done are pretty damn F***king scary for me to think about these days. I have fun kicking steps up them with no shame.. I guess like a climber would flop over a bulge in hopes of good pro or also a good time. I understand you cross both thresholds and was mostly hoping someone with that sort of contacts and information would be able to open some reality to the rest of us as far as climbing is concerned. Not like it's a better sport but it is sometimes the same and totally different... You can't exactly ski liberty crack as we all know.

Totally agree with that part- I just put in some small cord with a cinch on each side to replace it. That costed me a little at about 1 dollar. since the cinch was supplied.

That's cool info- I always wished somebody would actually write a more historical writing of detailed climbers and their moments of significant exploration before the 1965 era. To include tales first hand or second hand and such. Even if they are not with us anymore as I am sure all would agree that the recognition is deserved. Like Pete Schoening for instance is still alive and interesting to most folks... Waddup? You seem like a historical type of person pursuing facts!? An idea... What about Tom Miller? is he still around??

Yep. If it's truly unprotectable by anything else that is worth a crap then what dru said is the deal. Sometimes being creative with gear helps but not always- IE a tri cam (lowe) has less surface space than a cam for instance but the rock depends.... I have not done said route.....

Last time was there I didnt see a soul including camping gear at the lunch counter. But I would always be wary of lingering turds and dirty water. I think it's ok to camp there but Mattp's comments are right on the money for warning.

That's a steal! I lent my poons to danimal but if could buy again today I would fork the money for these pieces still. Camp XLC 490 Crampons

Is this some sort of spray? Get lost. You are polluting the good info. If you were a real moderator you would erase this comment and yours.

Fat people need climbin too