Lambone

Cathedral is well worth it, once you see it from the road you will know. The climbing is never difficult but very fun, the rock and veiws are beautiful. For a challange link it up with the Eichorn Pinnicle. Or solo it under the moonlight... It is very popular though and I'd recomend doing it on the weekday if possible. Start either very early or late afternoon. The approach takes about 2 hours and the route takes about 3-5 hours for the average party, or 30min if soloed. Have fun! [ 08-05-2002, 07:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

they can kiss my "sloppy"

we need a "drool" icon!

Not quite sure what this means..."We have the ability to leave a vehicle at Ingalls Lake to decend via cascadian couloir and avoid a north side decent if approaching via stuart lake." Are you going to leave a chopper at ingals lake? I hear the Sherpa Glacier becomes difficult later in the season, don't know current conditions. Going in from the south isn't bad, longer appoach but "easy" descent. [ 08-05-2002, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Hey ryland, I don't think the Stuart Trail head is closed. when we did it we came from goat pass and descended down to the toe of the butress. you stay on top of the moriane pretty much the whole way, and cross under the stuart glacier. There are a couple of snow patch crossings that you might want a light tool for, but we did not need crampons. Be sure to stay on top of the moriane. My buddy tried to drop straight down and almost killed himself in a landslide. It's really not that bad, took us abot 30-45min from goat pass, and could easily be done quicker. Do the whole ridge, it's worth it.

pretty funny Dwany, but you better watch out cause my mom could easily kick your ass to the curb

go for it sk, it's a mellow climb. Just practice self arrest a few times before it gets too steep. We climbed the Mazama glacier (another "mellow" route), and when it met the South Spur we were greeted by kids in jeans, tennis shoes, and walking sticks (from the woods). Things almost got rough when they pulled out subway sandwhiches...

Only if we bivi on the summit in my I-tent...and the weather looks shitty

too bad we couldn't get any reception in the icicle this weekend...

I believe Rodden and Caldwell used pre placed gear on Lurking Fear as well. Then again, the Shield was done clean after the cruxes were fixed beforehand... I think this kinda thing happens in all aspects of climbing. Hell, people have pre-placed food on the Pacific Crest Trail. Does that make it a Pink-Hike?

I think we might have dropped a brand new Blue Alien on the first pitch of Outerspace this weekend. We did the Remorse(left variation) start and my partner was using that size piece (we had two)after the crux slab move. At the top of the pitch we only had one. Your welcome to it if you find it, but for good karma points send me a PM. Thanks, matt [ 08-05-2002, 01:50 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It's basically the accepted means by which one progresses in sport climbing, as the emphasis is on pushing ones physical limit, not the technical mastery of quickdraw placement. [/QB] yeah, i like that

quote: Originally posted by Don Gonthier: Lambone. If its not such a big deal, why give it a special name? Why don't you just say 'hey I lead that' or 'I fell on a that while toproping'? See, come on now, it is a big deal to you. You wish you could place the draws on lead, but ya can't, so you give it a special name to preserve your ego. Think about it. I'm sure most sport routes you climb it makes no difference, but there has to be a few that without hanging draws first you can't climb free. It dosn't matter if its only just a tiny bit easier. If you can't do it without pre placeing draws, you still can't do it. Changing the name of somthing dosen't change the thing. The thing I don't like is that while we all have a limit at which we all fall off, if a climber were to pre hang draws on a 10a he wouldn't get quite the respect that a climber prehanging draws on a 12a would get. Yet the tactics are exactly the same. Its all about ego. Lambone this is not an attack on you personally but just a random rant. Don, Maybe I should have been more clear. I think the names are rediculous, which is why I didn't choose to address a "red point or a pink point"...in my opinion you either climbed iot without falling, or you didn't. If you did it on-sight, well good for you. I think sport climbing is much more about the climbing itself rather than the protection, which is why it realy doesn't matter if the draws are hanging or not. I have never tried to "pink-point" a route with fixed draws because my tendons are too weak for that shit. Trad climbing on the otherhand is all about having the skill to place good protection while on the sharp end. If you aid up, or rap down at your leasure leaving bomber gear for the free attempt...well your not realy trad climbing in my opinion. Sure you did the moves, but thats only half of the game... See where I'm coming from? As for redpoint or pinkpoint...those are just stupid names that someone came up with in the late 80's and I think it's kinda funny that people are still bitching about it 15 years later...

yeah, or no partner at all...

Did Orbit and Outerspace this weekend (first time), I'd have to say that those are the coolest chickenheads I have ever seen!

The East Face of Minuteman was my first route at the pass. I enjoyed it. Some of the rock is crap, but the spiltters make it worth it. The crux is a pumpy small hand crak that I rember being a bit awkward, and the handcrack on the final pitch is stellar.

That's pretty funny. For those who haven't been there recently, the trail head that begins down the residential street is closed. Instead drive past the old parking lot about 1/4 mile and park in the big new lot on the left side of the road. The new trail head adds about 1/2-1 mile to the hike. Hopefully it will scare some of the people away.

1) Camp pretty much wherever the rangers tell you you can. The higher the better. 2)I saw a big moose on the trail once. He looked pretty mean. 3)Bring good rain gear and watch for lightning. 4)Leave the cell phone at home. oh yeah, Irene's Arete is one of my all time favorite routes. [ 08-02-2002, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

anybody wanna go do Baker...planning to bivi on the summit...

we did finish it...I'm going rock climbing...

quote: Originally posted by 666: I dont know what's so damn hard about WALK THE FUCK OFF THE MOUNTAIN when someone is capable of walking up to the summit and bivying next to you [/QB] Your absolutey right, unfortunately it didn't work out that way...but it's in the past now. Maybe you've heard the phrase, "A climbing team is only as strong as it's weakest member." yeah I know...just another one of RURPS cliches... [ 08-02-2002, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: Space Jug ]

Top secret my friend!

quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: Hey Lambone- I'm real curious...how many hours was it between the first phone call and the time you saw the Men in Blue at the door of your I-tent? We first called late Sunday night to see if they could get a message to our folks. They asked us to call back the next day. Sometime monday we told them we needed some help. That afternoon a team was dropped off by chopper at Boulder Basin. They bivied that night at the summit. We had no idea they were there, 911 failed to relay that information. They stumbled across us packing up to get the hell outa there at about 8:30 Tuesday morning. If we had known they were there we would have went to meet them earlier, or the night before. RURP, I'm not sure why I chose to go back and forth with the likes of you, but what the hell... Alex Lowe was someone I met on several ocasions in his hometown of Bozeman, we were never buddy buddy or anything, but he was one of the most positive, encouraging, and welcoming burly Montana climbers I ever met. Say what you will about him, but your words don't mean much to me. As for my experiences in the mountains, a succesful trip is something that passes and the high lasts for a while, but after some time there are only boxes of slides and jumbled memories of cool pitches, good friends and views. For me it's the unsuccesfull climbs that remain in my head much longer. Maybe its cause I end up reflecting on it and trying to get over the dissapointment, whatever it is...it makes an impression. Call that cliche if you like, I just call it my opinion. Have a good one.

Thanks Term. I kept thinking about that solo experience you had on Rainier while we were up there. I wish we could have been that tough, but it just wasn't the case. Plus I was jealous of that GPS you had. I've never used one, but it sounds like it helped you out. While up there we killed time by trying to invent the next million dollar outdoor product (inspired by the cliff bar story that we read many times to eachother). I came up with a "Crevase Finder." Sorta like a fish finder, but for big dark cold holes instead. If there are any techno wizes out there who'd like to help me make it I'll split the profits 70/30 with ya.

Jens, good idea, but don't forget the dynamite!