Lambone

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: I hear that works really well on routes ove 90 degrees... Yes you hang-on with one hand and drill with the other. If you get pumped you fall off and must lead back up to your high point to continue drilling. Just A little Corner (12c) in the Needles of S Dakota was put up in this fashion by a 61 year old man. nothing at the needles is overhanging, and i'd like to see you hand drill a bolt with one hand kinda like the sound of one hand clapping.

I hear that works really well on routes ove 90 degrees...

quote: Originally posted by fern: that's not dru that's Andrew Port and that's not even his own helmet - total set-up oh, well that sorta looks like the dru I met. although who knows if that was the real Dru its all a big canadian government conspiricy!

have you two hooked up yet?

No, thats Dru... Although I think I had a similar experiance up at Lilooet last winter. I thought it broke my neck, and I saw stars for about another half hour. Then led the next pitch Shriek of the Sheep, coolest lookin roue in the Bridge from the road! Sorry tp reveal you secret identity Dru...

Godzilla would be hard if it wasn't for the big rest stances and stems you get every 10ft. Antd the many cracks you have to choose from depending on what size hands you have... 5.9 sure, but by yosemite standards, it's not at all sustained. Very cool climb though.

People who think Phish is just another Gratefull Dead don't know shit about either band. Just because smelly people who smoke lots of dope and follow them around doesn't make their music the same. Hopefully the band lost some of the "fans" who were just in it for the dugs and cheap burritos after the last 2 year break. Say what you will, Phish kicks ass and I'm freakin stoaked. I just hope they don't forget about the west coast when the next tour comes around. [ 08-21-2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

So is that prominant rib the North East Ridge? If so, looks sweet!

Share in the Groove

Cool caveman...pictures? ...must have eye candy...

I never used to wear one rock clmbing, and only about half the time in the mountains. Then I started reading "Accidents in North American Mountaineering," and began to wear one abit more frequently. Check it out, you'll see why. Then I got hit square in the melon with a large chunck of ice from outa nowhere moving very fast. My helmet saved my life. We are currently inseperable. Unless top-roping in a safe zone.

Insulting Dwayner is like pissing into the wind...

No, not realy a troll...just a fact I thought I'd point out. I'm not sure how relavent to the discussion or not. I was not suprised to get the cold shoulder from yet another RMI guide. Yet on the other hand, a few RMI guides are some of my best friends... They had RMI issue clothing on, and I had a conversation with the guy who led the first pitch at the Godzilla/City Park belay. He was way cool, and it was his first aid lead, positive and friendly...it was obvious to me that he hadn't nailed any pins on the route. He said it was nice to get away from the Rainier scene for some granite. He was one of those guys that you are happy to share a belay with. His friend on the ground however,was quite the opposite. Sort of the ying and yang of climber types I guess. It doesn't realy matter, I just think people should find a more obscure spot to practice nailing pins, and professional guides if anyone should be aware of that. [ 08-20-2002, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

The Emmons is in good shape also, although you have to travers very far left to get around the upper bergschrund.

Yo Erik, I saw that angle on Jap gardens last week... Someone is either very ignorant, or just has no respect for other climbers. They had also been nailing on the line just to the right of JG, you can see the scars from cleaning... On that same day i saw an RMI guide nailing pins into the Boulder underneath City Park. When I asked him why he was carrying a hammer and knifeblades up City park i just got a cold shoulder. They procedded to Aid the 2nd (10b pitch) and Slow Childern... I didn't hear any further hammering though. I've been psyching myself up to try and do Snow White clean for a couple of years now. (Then deck potential kept me a way) Now it's just another ruined aid climb. I hope the one or two people that can free it really enjoy themselves... Bad scene at the lower wall

Yeah, if you ever need do do some harder stuff in approach shoes or Tevas, just switch feet and and you'll have some nice edging shoes.

Yeah, let us know Pete. The TCU's and Zero's are two totaly different cams, can't really compare the two. I'd like to compare the Zeros with Aliens. If WC makes an offset Zero I'll break out my wallet.

smokea bowl and carry a big wall rack

Made my first attempt on Rainier, via the Emmons (Dog) Route. I made it to 12,500 and then descended with a sick member of our party. He was mostly suffering from altitude and dehydration, dissyness, etc..., he felt better as we wnet down. I kept my chin up, just glad to be there in good weather. The rest of our 7 person team went on to the summit, I went for cheeseburgers. They should be still up at Emmons Flats tonight. Hope they are warm Rainier is way cool!

They can consider my $ thanks enough. When I pay that much for a peice of equipment I shouldn't have to worry about complete zipper failures. Had it happened that weekend things would have gotten serious very quickly. I'm just a little tiered of companies that go big and compromise the quality of their gear. I'm just wondering if Bibler's quality has decreased since they were acuired by Black Diamond. I also wonder why they put such a small gauge zipper on their tents. The tent door is pretty crucial whouldn't you agree? I'd carry the weight of a thicker zipper if it'd stay closed for me... And by the way, I said the zipper was a "piece of shit." If yo took a look at it you'd agree. [ 08-19-2002, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I've only used my new Bibler twice and the zipper is totaly F%#@&ed!!! Grrrr... I have allways loved these tents, and had good experiences with them in the past, but the new zippers they are using must be some cheap peice of shit made in some indoneasian backalley sweatshop. Luckily it was mostly sunny this weekend, just a bit windy. REI here I come...

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Lambone (aka gymrat), I want to know how you can climb any of that without tape showing which holds are in. Actually, thanks for the beta; that will probably go on my list. Greg W Luckily a party the day before had left chalk on the holds...

quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Sounds like a sweet little climb with fairly short approach. Unfortunately the climb seems to go shorter than the approach, but its worth the hike. we should have done another route as well, but lounged in the sun instead.

Ask my partner if he was scared...? And he is a solid 5.9 crack climber. It's all realative. Why grovel up an off width in a corner when you an lie back righ up it with good feet? But your right, the cruxes aren't sustained. Not like a 5.9 like Godzilla anyway. It's kinda slabby up there.

sketch, It's solid, if not a bit scary 5.9. The cruxes are mostly lie backing wide flakes and cracks in the corner. Good foot holds make it reasonabe. Park at Blue Lake and use the same approach trail as Becky route on Lib Bell, go right at the fork in the climbers trail towards the early winter spires. Head all the way up to the base of SEWS and traverse back along NEWS's base on a established trail. The trail that goes straight up to NEWS is heavily eroded. The rock is mostly really good, go do it! [ 08-12-2002, 01:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]