Lambone

quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: I've always wondered what whould happen one day when someone's toilet plugs up and they're desperately trying trying to un-plug it, and go on the inter-net to try to find a plumber...but can't find one...because they're all on the internet. Interesting idea, eh? Dennis Harmon Funny you mention that... I hired a guy to cut my trees once, raced home from school to meet him here at the schedualed time, and found that he was at home on his computer spraying on this site!

Hey Norman Clyde, Do you still carry that Ice axe with the really long wooden shaft? You know, the one that goes up to your armpits. I allways thought it looked pretty badass in those black and white pictures. [ 07-23-2002, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Find one of the many threads he posted on today and send him a personal message. It is the little icon with two guys passing eachother an envelope. Or click on todays active topics, scroll down and click on the one that says "WA pass anyone?" Posted by Greg W. Good Luck...inernet hardman. [ 07-23-2002, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Plan on steep snow at the top of the cascadian. and be sure to veer right at the shoulder as indicated in the becky photograph. Have fun!

For all those who skipped reading through that babble, here are the highlights... quote: Originally posted by kainsacad: TRIP REPORT I had installed six pros up to that point and the very last one caught my fall twice. This is the proper application of rope and pro. Most of his placements were passive chucks several in a row. I learn by trial and error with a safe approach, in other words I put climbing safety devices into proper and real use. Those who look to get themselves a clean climb like driving down a highway cannot be in the same league as I am. I don't want to get in the middle of this, but I couldn't resist. Climb on kainsacad, and don't let the bad ones get you down, good days out are sure to follow. Bad partners come and go, but the good ones last forever. For more information on proper and real chuckcraft, cunsult Royal Robbins' manual, "The art of Chuckcraft" I think Matt has a copy. Spray and be sprayed upon my friend...hey, are you that guy from the Billings Montana, the one who endured bloody feet on the Granite Peak expidition? [ 07-23-2002, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

this is pretty funny

it's a very cool route, thet'll have a blast. one thing worth mentioning, hope its not too late...we had a 60m rope. I vaugely rememberthe first rapple being almost 100 ft, but I'm not exactly sure.

its easy to rap it with one rope. there are many bealay anchors. the crux may be rapping through multiple parties. we climbed it in late afternoon and had no trouble. the mounties get an alpine start

well good job then, way to go...the world is a safer place now

True dat. just to cheast beat a little bit for him (cause he would if he was here) we got down and climbed it again, without a rest day. I've never been so thoroughly depleted of all my reserves, but I couldn't have done it without Jason.

Green Drag-On, solo...with Yossarian, also solo. (actually he did give me a blay on one pitch to save time while passing...he was hauling bivi gear.) Currently my favorite aid climb at index, awsome solo, very direct with little mandatory free climbing. It wasn't as hot as most people seem to think. I would have rather been up high in the mountains, but I was experiencing partner bailout due to girlfriend issues. thanks for the excuse to spray ronco, you rock.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Some Gimli shots but not as good as the ones I saw. These are Dru's http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/199_Gimli2.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/486_GimliSRidge.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/780_gimlisridgep4.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/836_gimlistripes.jpg wow that is cool. where is that thing? pardon my canadian alpine ignorance...

no, as long as you take the sick pitches...

Sk, i'm not sure that i agree with you. i don't think honesty is that important. obviously you shoulnd lie and say you've done something that you haven't. But telling someone what you CAN do is a hole different story. How dooes one gauge what they can or cant do? Lets say you (honestly) tell your soon to be partner that you have never climbed a 5.10. Does that mean you can't do the climb? Or that you shouldn't try? How will you ever get better? How would you ever know? For that matter, lets say that you honestly tell them that you have climbed many 5.10's. Does that mean that the climb is in the bag? Honesty is irrelevantt in these circumstances, you never know what you can or can't do. My first time up El cap was with my one of my best friends. He learned to rock climb with trad gear that spring. I knew him well, I knew what kind of person he was. His ability wasn't important in that circumstance, like I said it was all in the state of mind, he wanted it as bad as I did and thats all that matered. I was willing to commit to a 30 pitch route with a total newbie, because I knew him, and I had never met anyone with as much drive and commitment. and in my opinion those qualities are what make a good climber. Technical ability comes second. But without some modesty you are bound to get you, and your partner into trouble. Say you can and you might die, say you can't and you'll never know if you could...it's kind of a catch 22 that way. [ 07-23-2002, 03:55 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Greg W, That may be true, but so what. It's naive to believe that people will be honest about their climbing abilities. I've found that climbing is a lot like fishing, or anything else in that respect. Also, jsut be cause you have ticked off some big, or hard routes doesn't mean shit. We took a guy to Nepal who had claimed to have done many impressive mountains in south America. Turns out he had been babysitted on all of those routes. One night he actualy asked me if he should go take a piss or not... Hell, my climbing ability changes daily. some times I'm feeling totaly solid on granite 11a and some times the 9's scare the shit out of me...its all a state of mind. Knowing your partner is important when getting on a serious route, that's all I'm tryin to say. It's never good to make ambitious assumtions when dealing with a long climb and unfamiliar partner. A team is only as strong as its weakest link, and if you fail, is only fair to blame the team, not your partner. This is something that many failures on big routes has taught me. You're point is also well taken, modesty is worth it's weght in gold. [ 07-23-2002, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I agree with mwills, though I use a more brathable option then scholler. bein hot I can handle, getting bit drives me insane... i have allso heard that its good to wash your clothes without soap, because the bugs are atracted to detergent residue. Anybody else heard that, or is it a myth? [ 07-23-2002, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

RikRik, If we ever go climbing together and you find out how much I suck, please don't tell everyone on this web site, ok. I guess the moral (not moron) of the story is: planning to climb the Apron with someone you have never met might be a bad idea. But blameing him for your error in judgement is immature. Hold yourself acountable for your own actions, you made the first mistake. No need to make other people feel like shit. No offense intended Kainsaid(sp?), just trying to make a point. Cheer up.

ggrrr...

yyeeehhaawww

No, Yos and I were both soloing the Drag-on...just for kicks. He bivied up there to try out his new ledge, and let me pass. A couple of other friends were on the Crier. The three of us ended up descending together. BTW-(for those who may be curious), the Drag-on can be descended in just three rappels with 60m ropes. Hit belay four and two on the way down, skip three under the roof. It was a great day...sunny, but bearable, kinda like Yosemite in early June. What a fun route! Cheers

I guess no one really cares, considering we don't know anything about the climb you are talking about. Like where it is, and what the traditonal ethics of the area are. If you wanted to start some spray, you should have just told us about the route. It's too sunny out to argue about bolts. Everyone is climbing in the mountains now! Cheers [ 07-22-2002, 07:48 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

...Yos formerly known as Yossarian. For his humble and selfless act of courtesy and kindness on the Upper Town Wall yesterday. Yos is the kinda guy anybody could have fun suffering on a wall with! Thanks again bro, hope you enjoyed the night on your new toy. Did you hear any strange falling objects around dusk? Solo Aid climber unite!!!!!!!!

You guys are awsome, thanks for the great suggestions!

Thanks Cavey...after we endure a most dreafull and severly relationship deteriorating experience, I will be sure to tell Chrysten that it was your suggestion. then you will surely DIE by her wrath!

Totaly! Not sure exacly where they are though??? Is it on the way to The IceFeilds area fro Seattle...sorta? I have allways waned to go there, looks like a step up from the Wind Rivers!