Lambone

Biner + Duct tape as a spoon after I dropped mine on the first day on El Cap.

Very cool climb. Our original plan was the big Direct East Butress of SEWS (still on the list), but it turned out that leaving Seattle at 5 didn't quite get us there as early as we hoped. Decided to keep training and go back for it. The Norewset Corner route was our back up plan, and a fun worthy climb. It turned out to be shorter than we has expected, it went in four pitches and four leisurly hours. Here is some usefull beta for anyone whose interested: With a 60 meter rope you can link pitch 1 and 2, up to the ledge under pitch 3 (the cool flake pitch). You can also link pitch 4 and 5, its a full rope stretcher, nice pitch! We had a fat rack, doubles on pretty much everything...too much. Go with one of each on small cams up to #2 camolot. Then double up on #2,3,3.5...one #4 should suffice, but you could do without it. Big hexes would be usefull, and the whole thing eats up nuts. There are four rap stations in the gully, no problem with one rope. We saw four other cc.comers up there and spent a couple hours hangin out on the summit. What a great day! Have fun!

Zero-cams are out, I saw them in the Yosemite shop...but I'm not sure where to get them around here. They look like the shiznit.

I am assuming Mr. Layton doesn't have a job or class this summer... I'm jealous, way too go man

word is the #4 camolot is still there. Josh, I think the Gendarm is faster then the rappel variation. Especialy if you are comfortable on 5.9 granite. try it next tiime. [ 08-09-2002, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Ti-blocks work best on the 7.8mm, but 5mm cord works too.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: I have two days coming up in Leavenworth, and after looking through the guidebook I am feeling a bit overwhelmed - there is so much to climb there! So, in hopes of spending more time climbing and less time searching and gaping, I am looking for some suggestions for easy to moderate routes to climb while I'm there. I would prefer to try some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch... Thanks! Orbit is cool too...and lacks the exposed crux that outerspace has (which isn't that hard.) We were up on the SCW this weekend and it was cold... The Careno crag and Castle are my other vavorite areas up there, with many good pitches and moderate trad multi pitch routes. Have fun!

oops [ 08-08-2002, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by payaso: So did I buy something I have no business owning? I intend on this being a rope that I carry for general mountaineering (glacier travel, 3-4 people on rope, occasional need to rappel, belay, and possibly occasional need to ascend / traverse a rock pitch. I do not intend on going out and buying another one to have a "set" of twin ropes. The salesman really recommended this for what I wanted. I imagine that if I intended to be doing more vertical pursuits that I would indeed need two of these ropes. For what I want though, perhaps this will work fine, or am I crazy to even think about using a single twin rope for this purpose? I bought the same rope about 5 or 6 years ago. Since then I've used many times on glaciers and mellow alpine climbs (4-easy5th class ridges etc.) Personaly I like it alot, mostly because it is so light. Ti-blocks work on thge rope if you use a thick locking biner. I use it for teams of 2 or three, on glaciers that don't have serious crevase danger. If I have four, or if the potential for a crevase fall is much higher, I usually bring my 9mil. On rock I will double the rope as suggested by Dru. That way if you do fall, both strands are less likely to cut over an edge or something. I think its a great rope for when you arn't too worried about falling, but still want a rope for rappeling or maintaining sanity. I think you made a good buy, I've definately got my moneys worth. Have fun

damit cut it out

uhh, I don't get it...

I have the maxim chord that you can buy in a 25' spool. it works well.

quote: Originally posted by bcollins: BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions? Barry ryland, From this information I gathered that he was talking about the stuart glacier to the upper north ridge. It is not very steep, and if the snow was soft you could probably run across in tennis shoes...but if it's icy and you slip without an axe...well lets just hope you have time to kiss your ass good bye before plumiting into the dark caverns below... to answer your question. the snow at the top of the cascadian can be skirted on (descenders) right via loose dirt/scree/boulders...etc. With an ice axe you can essentialy glissade down it, quicker and easier. It is pretty steep at the top, and very rocky at the bottom, so probably wise to have some kind of tool if you venture onto the snow. so, yes I was glad to have my axe, and would bring an axe if I were to do it again. However, I'd probably invest into one of those techy superlight ones they've got over at feathered friends, and aluminum strap-ons. I think rock shoes make the climbing on the ridge more enjoyable as well, I remember lots of friction moves. [ 08-08-2002, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

bcollins, I think alot of it depends on the temps. when we did it the snow on the glacier had frozen over night and it would have been scary without crampons. I wouldn't leave the ice axe behind unless you are comfortable traversing above large crevases with no means of self arrest. A super light axe would be best, no crampons if its looking warm. Have fun!

Thats cool, I just read her post and though "what the hell " Sometimes people need to remember that there is more than one way to do things, and we can all learn from eachother. Have fun.

Thinker, I think your plan is fine. I use the same system while setting routes in the gym. I tie a bucket of holds onto the bottom of the rope so the weight will pull the slack through the gri-gri for me. It works pretty well, except that you end up using more energy pulling up the weight with every move. I usually only use this onclimbs under my limit. The only main disadvantage I see is that you cannot back yourself up. You are putting all your trust into that gri-gri. If something should happen that would prevent it from camming, you'll hit the deck. This requires that you pay close attention to it and make sure that the lever isn't getting caught by anything on your harness. I have taken many falls with this system, and it has allways worked fine. In my opinion, that krazy1 person has a pretty lame attitude. If you don't understand what someone is doing, either shut the hell up and walk away or shut the hell up listen and learn something, but don't go spraying about it on the inernet in such a non-sensical manner. Good day, have fun!

the cool thing about adjustable daisies is that you don't havta fuck around with a fifi hook, I am a recent converter...

Yeah I don't like those either... but the met adjustable daisies rock!

that's cool, I think I have the worst spelling on this site...even after several edits...

I use three aiders, and leave the third free one on the last piece before the free climbing section. Then I flip my daisies over my shoulders, or clip them on to the back of the rack and pray they don't get caught on something.

I think if there was a better way, people wouldn't spend alot of $ on thos fancy soloist devices... I use a gri-gri. When at the top of a pitch, the weight of the rope tends to pull the slack through the device for you. This is something to watch out for (before you realize it you might have 20ft of slack), but most of the time its a benefit. I allways use a back up figure 8 just in case. It's not smart to put all your chips onto a gri-gri. Have fun Dru, solo aiding rules!

Sounds cool tom, I'd be more interested except I generaly dislike the "trail" aspect of a climb, and look to get it over with as quick as possible. First one to make a hello joke cane kiss my

Blood works well...