Lambone

right on pindude

Yes that is exactly what I am suggesting. it was recomended to me by Charlie Fowler, who instructs AMGA guides. Try it, it works great. It's much better if you can pull in the slack of the ropes independently, as the route may dictate that more rope is out on one rope than the other, etc...

Term, I ussualy use two seperate munters on one big biner. Seems to work fine, and the ropes act independently. Anyone suggets otherwise?

kick ass! anyone wanna ditch work tommorow?

Hmmm...cool. Anybody see what Drury is lookin like from the road?

No offense guys, but I have allways been bewildered when experienced climbers lose a crampon on a climb. you hear the stories all the time, but i just don't get it.

Paul, Are you sure we need some water inorder for things to get fat? We havent had any water yet, and things are looking fat already...almost as fat as I have seen I in February. I'm inclined to think that the ice in Banks is a result of dynamics in the ground water table that are independent from the amount of percipitation in that year. I'm no hydrologist, but perhaps the variance we see in the amount of ice from year to year has more to do with water stored in the water table from whenever...be it last year, or 100 years ago. Maybe it has more to do with how much farmers in the area have been irrigating throught the summer. It seems to me that what we need for the ice to continue growing are high preasure (cold) weather systems rather than low preasure systems that bring lots of precip, and warmer temps. pehaps consistant cold/dry weather contributes to the "fattness" of the ice more than than wet weather systems with fluctuating temps. Of course the opposite would be true for ice climbs that from from freeze thaw surface water cycles. This is an interesting topic, I've allways wondered why draught years have produced some of the best ice conditions in areas like Hyalite canyon, and Banks.

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: goddamit how come no one recognizes the fact that I coined the term KTK in the first place do I havta did up the freakin thread! haha...just kiddin, i don't care that much if someone else wants to claim my work as their own... shit yur just jealous that you are not in it.... i dont think they allowed married boys to submit articles don't forget that you are Chairman of the Stash...have you paid your dues lately?

goddamit how come no one recognizes the fact that I coined the term KTK in the first place do I havta did up the freakin thread! haha...just kiddin, i don't care that much if someone else wants to claim my work as their own...

It's the American alpine Journal, a book documenting the years acomplishments. It is sent out to members once a year, or can be purchased in local shops. mountaineers book store is a good place to look. If you've never seen one, check it out, that shit is the gnar. However, Mike gives no refrence to the originator of the KTK [ 11-04-2002, 04:35 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Hey, is that little ice flow the one on the trail up to the Coleman?

good for ice climbing though!

nice job guys!

you shoulda been with us on da Toof caveman...we were jonesin! had to settle for burbon instead

yeah it's all about the eye candy ya know, dreamin of places we'd rather be than behind this computer screen...

right on russki, you got any pics?

right on Dale, hope life is good in CO, kick some ass down there!

yah, we did zee Toof yestarday, my vigin Toof ascent. I thought it was a quality route! The ice around source lake is forming, and almost in...almost meening that it is probably climbable, but by the looks of it you'd be hard pressed to get good pro in. If this cold sticks around it will be ready very soon. today im stuck raking leaves [ 11-03-2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

alpine dude...come on

fersher

Inspired by a recent trip report on gutter cleaning, i decided to make my first house hold ascent, one move of aid with a mantel under some scary looking wires. As of 3pm the route awaits a second ascent. Descend via fence on the southwest corner

ummm, I'm not sure where you're coming from with that jkassidy. Bolt's next to cracks piss me off just as much as the next trad master. Perhaps you should spend some time getting to know the people you slander. Paul, If they are by good placements I say pull 'em, bad form. Where at?

quote: Originally posted by Anna: Shame on you Greg I have taken all these suggestions and I think doing lots and lots of sport leads (well when I feel comfortable leading again) is what my next step is going to be. Thanks to all of you! Now I just need to get some time off work and school to do it! I also think the gym might help me out even though I am not a real big fan of them. Cheers Anna, My recomendation is to perhaps take a course on anchors and protection, possibly at a gym or with a guide, and don't be afraid to stick with trad climbing. Many people believe that they have to sport/gym climb for a long time for a while before they are ready to get into trad. Not true. Sport/gym climbing can be a rut that may hinder your trad climbing ability in the future. I toproped for a long time before leading, and learned how protection worked by placing my own toprope anchors (the bluffs of Devil's Lake Wi are perfect for this) then I got a meger rack and worked my way up the grades leading roues that I had toproped many times. It wasn't untill several years later that I did my first "sport climb." This worked for me, so in my opinion I think you should stick with it. You'll find folks who are willing to show you, if not...pay them, it's worth it.