Lambone

Hey fellas, yeah I was being a smart ass. But I was not trying to say that either of you have bad technique, it'd be foolish to judge you're ice climbing technique by reading posts of the internet. All I was really tryin to say that people who have the "kill the ice" attitude really bug me. I don't care if it is fragile newly formed ice, or fat blue mid-season ice. When climbers hack away at it, it fucks it up for other climbers. What bothers me more is when people hack away WHILE ON TOP-ROPE!!! (take ICY BC for example) I've been known to bury my picks while scketched on lead...alot...but there is no excuse for doing it on TR. Call me a Ice-cop if you wish, but I think it's just a matter of being respectfull of our fellow climbers. I think climbing early season ice is great for developing technique, because you ussualy can't afford to swing hard, else lose the ice or break your picks. I guess the point I am trying to make is that if you are new to ice climbing, practice treading as lightly as possible on the ice while on top-rope or otherwise. Hell, try doing a climb that is less than vertical without your tools, you'll be suprised about what you can do with just your feet. Or just use one tool, or try not to swing at all with two. In my opinion this is the best way to get good at climbing harder ice, and it's ice-friendly. Anyway, have fun out there, hope to see ya!

It's all thelawgoddess's fault!

Thanks jules, but look a bit more closely. Thelawgoddess has dug my post up from 1 year ago.

Hey TLG, I was wondering the same thing last year...just go there, follow the tourist trail to the ice at the base of the large rock wall. It's obvious. Beware of avalanch hazard from the face, and calving ice. It's fun, an easy place to set up topropes and practice swinging tools. And alot closer than the Coleman. The steep shit is way hard!

ooops [ 11-06-2002, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

So did you climb the route?

One may also argue that it is possible to climb thin ice, or fat ice without "bashing it into submission." It's called technique.

Wow jimmy that is some dope footage! reminds me of the good old days at Bridger Bowl...

Greg, that is about the stupidest thing I have heard you say...

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: I think eric is just jealous, cause you guys have swung ice tools this season and he hasn't... BONE, ICE IS LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE.......I LIKE IT ALL PRETTY MUCH EQUALLY...THOUGH I PREFER TO HAVE MY FILL WITH FAT BLUE ICE.... I COULD HAVE CLIMBED AS SOON AS EVERYONE ELSE......BUT I CHOOSE TO BIDE MY TIME....... HACK AWAY FOOLS....... whatever have fun biding you're time. Although I agree, be gentle on the forming ice, hook,hook,hook...

quote: Originally posted by erik: MY BITCH LIES WITH EVERYONE GETTIN OVER EXCITED ABOUT...HAVE PAITENCE...IT IS A VIRTURE THAT WILL YILED TEN FOLD..... SAVE YOUR GAS MONEY...... PEOPLE GET SOOOO EXCITED PREMATURLY ABOUT ICE AND SNOW.....IT WILL COME AND IF DOESNT, YOU ARE NOT LET DOWN....... .... Dude fuck that, theres Ice out there, just cause you aren't exited doesn't meen other people shouldn't be. I think ice climbing spawns a different type of exitement with climber because it is such a temporary thing. If you don't go get it it's just...gone.

I think eric is just jealous, cause you guys have swung ice tools this season and he hasn't... banks lake kicks as, you should go. If the Punch Bowl is crowded just look around and you'll find another good spot. [ 11-05-2002, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: quote:Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: I do find it very funny that we ran into a couple of fellows who flatly said 'the route is not in shape' as if it were an fact as indisputable as the sky being blue. They had not even been there. I wonder how people feel like they can spew beta for routes they have not even seen? Dan, This was the same bullshit that Wayne and I got from TWO parties when we went to do it. Unfortunately it kept us from even attempting it. I hope my post after was helpful in your decision to go. I'm jealous, but good job! Yeah, thats a very discrete way of saying that most people just arn't as burly as you guys I think the reality is that most climbers dream of doing gnarly mixed alpine routes...but only a select few actually put up when the route is right in front of them. Same goes for big walls...

Yes, I agree...screw munter hitches...use a Reverso. Although it is good to have options for those times where you forget, or drop your belay device.

quote: Originally posted by pindude: original post: 8:07 p.m. Lambone's post: 8:08 p.m. Damn, Lambone, you're a quick reader! Read it a week ago on supertopo...

that one is the best, fersher

nope...try again...

Again, glad you are relatively ok Stefan. Perhaps one valuable lesson can be taken from this unfortunate accident. If unsure about the stability of the rappel anchor, back it up anyway possible for the first rappeler, have them put full weight on the rope to test the anchor. Then the second (lighter person) can remove the back up. I'm not sure if this was an option in your case Stefan. But I think it's a good idea anyway. Heal well!

I thought Abraxas was an A4 route at Index...

quote: Originally posted by CascadeClimber: quote:Originally posted by JayB: Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead? Yep. I perceived that I needed a change of underwear. -Loren I wanted to stab my partner to death with his dull ass rusty screws that he paid 5 bucks each for...

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: [QBThey were fucking around with a portaledge; whether setting up or taking down it was hard to say. Love, Dr. Flash Amazing[/QB] ahhhaid climbing, either fucking around with one thing or another, often hard to tell which!

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: quote: That is because you don't have my gut! Wanna bet, just ask Erik. plus, ice climbing is all the training I need. oh wait, strike that...come May I will be draging a 200lb bag of concrete back and forth across a parking lot. Thats all the El Cap training I need.

he's going into rehab

Pete...the first thing you need to learn about wall climbing is that being in shape is not a requirement. That's why I do it. The only thing you need is enough whishy and smokes to make it to the top Eric- shhhhhhh....

-get to lilooet at least 4 times -1 week climbing with bro's in Hyalite -climb Drury -do some classic Cascades winter alpine shit (Chair, NY gully...etc...) -take an avalance course with my wife -do some BC skiing, back country and Whistler,BC -graduate from college one of these might have to wait...can you guess which?