Lambone

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: Sounds to me that Anna had no right heading up that climb in the first place. If you had little idea on how to set an anchor, then what were your intentions when you reached the top of the pitch??? And how about the second, did he/she feel comfortable seconding on an anchor set by a questionably "experienced" climber. Sounds like your climbing friends should have and could have help you make a safer and proper decision. Yes, climbers have close calls, but it sounds like you are not a climber who should have been leading that type of climb. You were not positive on how to set gear on trad climbs, HELLO big RED FLAG there. Learn to recognize the inherit risks of not being confident with the fundamentals first, then get up on a route. If you are just "pretty sure" you know how to place gear, take a course or practice until you are. It's people like you that make non-climbers believe that climbing is not safe. Sorry to rag on you like this, but this is also directed to your climbing friends who allowed you to lead up that route. You were lucky, very lucky. "no right" Man fuck you. who are you to determine who has a right to climb something or not. What a croc of shit. Yeah, maybe she wasn't quite ready yet...but thats a completly different thing than saying she had no right to be there...you suck

werd, will do!

Lats year was my first season climbing in Lilooet, and I found the great ice to climb on each time I went up there. I'm looking forward to a "good year!"

yep, new line...a bit more direct...with big fat bolts. I've seen mixed routes in Hyalite with two bolts equalized in cobbles stuck in frozen mud, so sprayers need not bother trying to tell me the rock isn't good enough in Banks. I'm not trying to keep the "project" a secret, cause if someone wants to do it first...have at it, bolting steep lines is a pain in the ass anyway. [ 11-02-2002, 01:08 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

oopps, yeah cjoof1 had it right. matsui's web site has a good photo on it. and that is alex's photo of salt'n pepper... [ 11-01-2002, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Jens, Dale Remsberg and freinds from Feathered Friends developed a few new mixed lines up near Pandome falls last winter. I'm sure the guys at FF would be happy to give you the info. Anybody wanna go scope out the potential for a line on Salt'n Pepper with me this year?

If you were going to a small town with no economy like Darrington, why not just move to Belgrade, MT or Cody, Wy where the ice climbing is the shit????

looks like it might be a party, possibly I'll see yall up there!

I think it's easy to tell the experienced from the newbies by the way people spray, although...I'm still tryin to figure out if trask actually climbs or not...

uh...yeah and...? I just got some slick Cloudveil gloves at FF for 60 or so bucks. Kinda like a better made Dry tool glove with padded knuckels and a thin lining. They feel sweet, still waiting to use em though...

chips is just jealous...

More of a plug for my buddies than VW, they get paid twice as much when teaching...and they are some of the best climbing instructors that I've ever met. I'd plug for myself, but I'm not doing that gym stuff anymore...

Wild things packs are great, but i think they are two expensive for what they are, nylon bag with straps and a thin foam pad.

quote: Originally posted by Anna: I was suggesting the gym to practice sport lead. Bluntness...all these folks said the same FUCKING thing but with soft edges yo...I could have died that day. I WAS AN IDIOT, I KNOW THIS. You're mean. Anna, It's obvious that you weren't ready to lead that route, but SO WHAT! I respect the fact that you had the ambition to do it, and the sense to realize that it was time to back off. That demonstrates the fact that you have what it takes to be a great climber. As far as the anchor blowing, well that was a result of lack of technical skill. Technical skills are easy to learn. However, ambition and common sense are a different story. I know people with amazing technical skills that are either too scared to go for it, or too stubborn to turn around. Climbing is about stepping into the unknown, attempting something that you are not sure if you can do or not. This is what you did when you tried to lead Saber, and you made a good descision when you recognized that you weren't ready. The technical sjkills will come with time. By the way, I can recomennd two awsome instructors at VW in Seattle that are both excelent teachers and very experienced in trad climbing skills. PM me if you are interested. [ 11-01-2002, 01:39 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Anna: Hey Thanks for the reply Mister Chips...it took a lot of time to build up enough guts to post about how utterly stupid I was and now you have made me feel like shit. YOU have never made a wrong desicion in your life I guess. Many times we are in situations that we just wing it but I KNOW THAT IT WAS WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I felt good about climbing the route to start because of the difficulty rating and the fact that I had lead before, but I WAS WRONG.....it was a mistake! Be nice. Anna, As RuMR and others suggest, I wouldn't be too hard on yourself about what happened, as it was probably a result of your more experienced partners decision to put you on the sharp end. That route ain't 5.4 Shit happens, people make bad calls, if you live through it you come out wiser climber.

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: Hey LAME - BONE, It's not about who has a right to climb a route because the climb is there, it's about who has the right to climb because they are prepared - experienced - and at least have some confidence. Read the posts by ANNA herself, she pretty much admits that she had no "right" to be on that climb. Maybe you should give your head a shake pal. If a friend of yours said to you, "ya, I have not climbed for 4 months, I have very little idea on how to place natural gear, I am not feeling good about this, I am not familiar with this climb at all, I don't know how to set an anchor, I don't know where the anchor is etc. etc. " would YOU say "c'mon dude, just climb it, you can do it, ROck on man." (puff-puff)???? THINK ABOUT IT LAME-O. There you go again...who the hell are you to assume that I would even consider something like that? Not to mention to suggest that I smoke dope and climb...have we ever met, do I know you? I think not. Perhaps you should ask me how many people I have instructed in climbing before you go making such assumptions. I am not judging Anna's decision/mistake/luck/whatever as you are. I am saying that based on what I have read, I think you are a pompus asshole to say to someone that they have a "right" to climb something or not. You are the guy at the crag who puts out the attitude at the crag that makes me want to leave. [ 11-01-2002, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, me neither...I got nothin against Scott really. Keep on gettin after it bro!

The drive to Liloeet is no big deal. It's worth it to climb some good ice.

ah fuck! I suck page tops...

fuck it...Page Tizzy

perhaps

Yeah it sorta looked like the north side....probl'y was. It just sorta makes me sad to see Hillary sell out Mountaineering like that. he's done some great stuff in Nepal...but this just leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

I'd argue that steep ice takes little skill and technique to succede on. One can usually get by with balls and muscles. But skill and technique make it more fun, less tiering, and easier (less bashing) on the ice. Putting screws in does'nt take much skill realy. We'll ok, so you have to know what a good spot looks like, but after that you just put the damn thing in and clip it. The rest is a mater of hanging on and not getting freaked out.

Maybe I was a little harsh, nothin personal Scott, hell I don't even know you.

www.nwog.IMGUNNAFUCKINGPUKE is the lamest climbing resource I have every seen. Each lame ass trip report is so skewed by scot'shouldbewearinNorthFace's gaper perception of the real world that it just makes me turn away in disgust.