Lambone

thats more like it

yeah, lots of chalk and extra tape...

still cheaper than buying some Charlet peice of shit, selling them for less and buying Cobras cause it's what you should have bought in the first place...

you just gave yourself away troller...yeah it's in perfect shape, go get it and let us know what you think...bring pins.

quote: Originally posted by b-rock: I'll add my support for John Long's Climbing Anchors. Can anyone recomend a text for learning aid beyond that of FOTH? John Long also wrote a book with Minnendorf called "Big Walls." It takes you through the basics, but that's all. Mike Corbet also wrote a book, I believe called "Aid Climbing" I didn't like that one as much. Both books are ok, but they don't go into some of the newer equipment and time saving techniques. Then there is also Chongo's elusive 1000 page wall climber's bible. I don't know the title, probably something about Big Wall Metaphysics or something...It costs $80, but I have actualy heard that it is worth it. I think it's distributed out of the Camp 4 parking lot, or the Lodge cafeteria. Or you can persuade me to teach you...

Get John Longs "Anchors" and read it, best $ you'll ever spend.

Dave, I got a pair last year, my first fatish ski. I love em so far, only wish I had gotten 190's instead of 180's (I weigh bout 165 with beer gut). Yeah they ski nicely and I hope to have them for a few more seasons at least. Maybe a bit heavy for longer backcountry tours.

if you drive up there right now you can see the line, covered in about an inch and a half of snow...

ah, si senior... I have seen dinner plates and melting on glacial ice...

MattP, At the risk of being sprayed upon, I'll offer up that my lady sleeps much warmer than I do. We were zipped together on Glacier peak and it saved my ass...'cause I brought my joke of a sleeping bag...

Then again, most beggining trad climbers won't have a large enough rack for aid climbing, or all the other accesories...

Dinner plates are what crash on your head when you swing at the ice too hard and too many times, running water is what happens when ice melts, typicaly not a good thing when you are climbing it...mostly because you get all wet. Having Dinner plates and running water at the same time is kinda odd. Usualy you have one or the other depending on temps...dinner plates when its cold, melting plastic ice when its warm. [ 10-22-2002, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I agree that aid climbing is the best way to really learn how to place protection well, especialy difficult placements. But I don't think that it is the best way to learn how to Trad Climb on free routes. Mostly because you will will want to place a piece every 5ft and you will want to pull on the gear all the time! At least thats what happenss to me after every long aid climb I do...

sweet, those look fat, do they come in regularly?

one word - two tools Cobra

Bibler Tempest Rommier for extended days in the tent, with two doors and vestibules. $100 less than and I-tent, and only about a pound heavier than I-tent w/vestibule. Not all that more expensive than other bomber 4 season tents, and single wall is the way to go for cold weather/high altitudes...IMHO If you decide to buy a VE-25, save your self the trouble and just flush your money down the toilet before wasting your time with North Face... yeah I'm a gear snob, so what [ 10-22-2002, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[ 10-21-2002, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

nice photo Matt!!!!!

shit I always thought fixed-heads were the first thing to fail on me....

The Rages are good tools homeslice. You couldn't go wrong for that price. For alpine stuff modify the pinki holder thing, i.e. saw it off. I like BD tools and the picks kick ass. go for it [ 10-21-2002, 08:40 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Fowler recomends extending their rap device on a sling if setting them up before you rap. It keeps them from getting pulled by your weight, and works the same way.

I like that golite coat...(bought one from jim on sale). I plan on having it for a long time, or at least until the insulation packs out. But it doesn't compare with a nice fat down coat... Thanks for the thoughts, I should have also mentioned that I will not be able to fit the coat under my shell. [ 10-18-2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I'd agree with Iain, the autoblock is the way to go. It basicaly acts as your brake hand if you should let go of the rope. Too many wraps and it will be hard to slide it down as you go, not enough and it wont hold. I think I ussualy use three. Dru's right though, if you have to pass a not while on rappel, you want a prussick above the device. In that case I use a gri-gri (since that only ussualy comes up when rapping a single chord). Passing the knot is a wholenother topic though. Setting them up on the rope first and using a firemans belay are also good options.

epic dude, glad you made it... I hope to be coming to Bozeman in mid december for some ice, maybe we can hook up for a beer...