Lambone

jja, You could get to the trailhead in anything, 2wd...no clearence...whatever. There are no ruts yet, as of Saturday. It's pretty icy though. Have fun!

Naw, sorry. The only pictures we took wer of the Sceptor, and there is a five or six roll waiting list before they are developed... Some day I'll go digital, but probly not any time soon...spent too much $ on gear

Dave, I like the blizzard for ice and alpine stuff.

They did better in cold weather/dry snow. Dripping ice got 'em pretty wet. They make Nikwax and other stuff for synhetic materials. I hadn't applied any yet...

Hyalite is in pretty good shape. Most of the standard climbs are in fat. There is no snow up there, the driest I've ever seen it for this time of year. As a result, many freeze thaw dependent climbs are non-existant, like Mummy 4, and other sick/scary testpieces. Unfortunately, due to the easy access and lack of skiing, Hyalite is also quite crowded. We got skunked going to the Dribbles two days in a row. If you have your heart set on being the first ones to a route, better set your alarm for 3:45 like the Cascadeclimber crew. Most of the moderate classics are heavily picked out... Still we had a great trip, hanging with old friends and trying to pretend that we're in shape!

I'd prefer a stubby in bad ice over nothing. The way I see it, maybe it will slow you down a bit and help prevent your good screws from blowing, or at least keep you from cratering at full velocity.

I had the chance to demo some Grivel 360 screws from Pro-Mountain Sports this past week. It took me a bit to get a feel for the long handle, but otherwise I thought they worked great. Once started they go in smooth and fast, and you get lots of leverage with the longer handle. Fortunately I did not have the opportunity to conduct the ultimate test! But when it comes to being pumped and getting a quick screw in, these get two thumbs up.

werd

I had the chance to use the neumatic G14's for five straight days of climbing in Mt. They kick ass! I used them with Sportiva S's and monopoints. They worked great on everything from grade 2-5 ice, from 1-4 pitches. The set-up did tire my ankles and feet out faster than big bots. But it was great to climb without 5 pounds on each foot. The flexible ankles made it easy to french step and rest, yet frontpointing was no problem. One thing that is kind of a drawback with the S boots is that they are not waterproof. So it is essential to dry them out each night by a heater. But with the right socks they were warm the whole time, and it was down into the teens each morning. Anyway, this is a great set up for ice cragging, and I'd highly recomend it. I will be using the combo from now on.

There is a way. Scary as all hell, but it's possible. Think Boyscout knots.

I think the exact opposite is true, as long as you are anchored within arms reach of the power-point. Here is a situation to think about. Lets say you happen to be rapping down a steep blank face (no pro or intermediate anchors are available) and each belay station is 60 meters apart. You have two 60 meter ropes, then...your dumbass partner accidentaly drops one of them. Oh, and your way up off the ground in the middle of nowhere and no one knows where you are. It's either get down, or die of dehydration. What should you do?

Nice phil, thats a great idea. The basemap is alittle blury in my screen, but it does the trick. It's on My Favorites now

Just picked up a pair from PMS. They look pretty tough with the monopoint. can't wait to try them. I'll report on how they climb ice with the Sportiva S next week.

Hey Colin, I've had sabertooths for about 4 years or so and still havent filled them. But if I were going to I'd probably just do some light strokes from the top down. You'd havta file the sides quite a bit to get a sharp triangle front point on there, and it would probably be weaker... Anyway, maybe one day I will sharpen them, but as of yet I have't seen the need to. Obviously the more you sharpen them the sooner they will wear out, and I find that sharp poons and picks just need to be sharpend more often to stay sharp. Therfore I leave mine dull and call it good. Hope that helps, Matt

Not you dood. Iceguy, aka Eric. He admited that he looked the answer up. So it's his fault that noone will get the Cobras, unless they got$ Peace out

If I still want top sell them after this next trip to Mt and Wy, then I'll be open to offers...

Dude, whats up with making you sign a waiver (I agree) before entering that site...lameo.

There will be alot of new first amd second ascent possibilieties at the Redmond bouldering comp this weekend!

Dru, Who is hosting/organizing the Ice Fest...just curois. i couldn't tell from the web site. Phair Creek would be cool.

Nice Dale, do you shoot photos with a digital camera? If so you should consider giving us some eye candy for Christrmas!

Hmmm...yeah, good points.

No, Pete bolted the route and worked it for the whole season to fnally redpoint it in the spring I believe. Then Alex went up there with Kris Erickson for the photo shoot and got in the magazines. Pete is one of the best climbers I've ever had the privilage to belay, and also one of the most underated mixed climbers. He got frustrated with the whole scene and took some time off from training. We did the Full NR of Stuart together last year, it was a blast. Zack Attack was the other route. A long moderate mixed climb above the Genesis area. And Teenage Delinquants was the hardest of his routes underneath Alex's Responsible Family men. FA- Will Gad, I think it's awaiting the second ascent. That is, if the bolts haven't fallen out yet. Just a little random usless route informaton. That photo of Alex just gets my nerves, cause Pete gets no credit. Unfortunately Eric blew the competition for everyone, because he cheated...oh well.

I'm not sure of a good meathod, other than reverse ascending. I'd probably haul the victim to the half way point, then descend the opposite side of the rope, build a belay an continue from there. It'd be qucker with two ropes, one of the benefits of double rope techniques.

Off, The Trango Extreme is a different model. Has a front toe bail for Crampons, and the materials are quite a bit different. it's similar to the Trango Ice.

I think he meant the Kaylands, FF stoped carrying them... PMS also has the Trango's