Lambone

The Pillar in Cooke City (it has several different names depending on who you ask) is 1/4 up from the main highway, visible from the road, and has a relatively short approach. Although it is threatend by serious avy danger on Barronette Mt. However, you are right, Cooke City isn't the most accesible place, and the locals like it that way. It really is a special place to climb ice, and I'd highly recomend it. If it had better rock it would rival the mixed climbing in vail, as Barronette as many little steep caves with gnarly pillars and such. My friend Pete tried to put a sick line up, but by the time he had drilled all the bolts through the roof, all the holds had broken off and crumbled. Anyway, sorry to change the subject from Colorado, i'd like to climb there sometime!

Hey I don't blame ya! Nice lead. Thanks for the invite, Chrysten and I would love to come visit Boulder sometime! There is a pillar in Cooke City Wyoming that is very similar to the Fang, looks almost identical actually, but has never recieved any press. Anyone going to Bozeman should check it out!

Hey Dale, Just curious, did it have a screamer on it? If so, did the stitching blow? Have people been climbing the Fang yet? Have fun! Matt

I'm intrested!

good choice

Yeah, looks pretty wild up in there!

Since those climbs are on the east aspect of the canyon, high winds after a recent snowfall could cause heavy windloading up there...

When we hiked up to Shriek last year there was a ton of Avy Debris in the approach gully, and only about 3-6 inches of new light snow. The danger seem ed pretty minimal. I'd say big ice balls on the approach are a good indication that it has recently slid and is now safe. Just pay attention to the weather, and don't go if the weather hasn't been stable. I've read and heard some stories about folks getting sluffed on pretty hard while up there.

Anyone been into the Bridge yet?

You should go. There definately will be ice to climb in Feb. Access may be a problem into Hyalite if it snows much between now and then, but in the past few years the road has been drivable for most of the season. If Hyalite is shut down to cars, Pine Creek and Cooke City are both accessible without much trouble. Cody isn't much farther than Bozeman 3.5 hrs and has the best Ice in the lower 48 with no road issues. Have fun!

Yeah, i was talking about the red ones... I was trying to figure out the differences between the Ice and S (other than the gaito and velcro strap). It's hard to tell from the web site if the S is insulated or not? Seems like it sort of is? Trango Ice: Trango Lining: 100g Aluminia® Trango Extreme S: Trango Lining: 100g Aluminia/Drilex in the heel area

Notice that he is tied into a staic rope? It's a good thing he stuck that flying leap!

Thanks Dan!

Hey leave me outa this... The Raiders rule!

G14's, they worked fine...awsome crampons IMHO. We didn't put them on until just before we traversed below the face.

Just a side note: I used the Trango s on Chair peak saturday and they worked great. Plenty warm enough. The Trango Ice looks cool too, maybe next year.

It was pretty cold on Chair, definately below freezing. The snow was either very crusty or very sugary, but not mushy.

Cracked, We silently slipped by as you were walking circles in the woods, wondering what you could possibly be doing...but mostly just glad that we were able to pass you. Nice job on a cool looking climb. Is that your bright orange pack? You can see that thing for miles.

Nice climbing fellas, thanks for posting the info. Dan, what sort of rack did you tote up there? Would you recomend bringing more or less?

I think we started around 7:30, and we toped out at about 10. My partner wanted to bail once he saw that first pitch, but I was all about it, it looked intimidating, but turned out to be pretty easy, the pro was nothing to write home to mom about... There were two guys behind us, but we couldn't see anyone come up after that. On our way down we watched 6 or 7 climbers on the NE Butt at once. That whole basin was a freakin circus today. It was odd to hike up there in the pitch black, feeling all alone and out there, only to return to a mob scene. But everyone was having fun, and thats cool So did you guys climb also?

Yeah I saw that show. I thought it was really well done, although a bit gruesome. The Alps look sick!

Nice Greg, that's a very worthy first Ice route...allthough too bad there wasn't much ice. We also did it this morning. The weather was nice, temps were nice, and we beat the hordes. Getting up at 3:15 paid off..., there were four parties on our heels (sorry about all that snow I sent down guys...went right when I shoulda went left.) Along with the suggested gear list, we also found some cams (up to #1 camolot) usefull for the belays, and especialy on the first pitch (kinda thin, but easy and fun). Rock gear was more usefull than screws. We only found a few good stubby placements, but used each cam at least once, and a few pins. Of course, that's all changing as we speak...Great route, two thumbs up, don't know why I've waited so long...

What do you meen by that Jim? Also, I'd leave the EDM route in further editions of Selected I. I think it adds to the character of the book, and it inspires me to get off my ass.

About three months into it you start thinking that you can come up with interseting threads...