Lambone

Yeah, I only have a half day, and have never done Chair, so what the hell... As long as I don't get clocked with ice, it's all good.

Tim, Souldn't that first pick read: Matt Heller? Klenke, Mark showed me those photos on his lap top once at VW, if I remember right, it was Dorado Needle. But I could be wrong.

Cool, see ya at the base of Chair peak!

Is that da toof?

I heard from a friend of a friend who said that his friend told him that his partners ex-girlfriends brothers freind went up there and said the ice was too thin. Then again...he was also a friend of Scot'teryx...so take report that with a grain of salt.

move to Washington...

There are some pretty badass climber chicks out there too.

Thanks Paul. But which road from that list is it? One of the numberd ones?

Yeah, don't get me wrong...the Dry Tool glove is way better than any of those big poofy overdone gloves that you can't use your fingers with. You will love them. I am just bummed that mine fell apart so quick because I really enjoyed climbing and skiing in them. Hopefully this years series are more durable, so you won't have to buy a new pair next year. My advice would be to avoid belaying and rappeling with them. Have fun!

Totaly. I have found they are best in cold dry conditions. The Scholler shed snow well, but wet drippy ice will soak them. They have a nice thin linning as well, and are cheaper than Dry Tools.

I got the ones that are black and have padding in the fingers and knuckles. They are low volume, warm and supple. But not very waterproof. Great for leading. The Dry Tool Gloves are nice too. But if you haven't used them yet I would exchange them for any of the Cloudveil gloves. I had the older version of the Dry Tool. The Scholler fabric was mush thicker than the new ones, but the leather disintigrated after one season of moderate use, and then the Scholler got holes in it from handeling the rope. The new version seems thin and not warm enough to me...but thats just an opion gained from trying them on in the store. They are overpriced compared to other gloves out there. I also tried the REI glove in Montana. It has a leather palm and some water resistant/breathable fabric. I used them on every route. They got wet, but are a good glove for 50$.

The Information is here RIP

Also, perhaps Jim included the route in his first book as a memorial to Eve Dearborn....just a wild guess.

I'd put $ on Notgotmoney... With that lineup it must have been a pretty cool freakin trip...whether you climbed anything or not.

Perhaps because it's the coolest lookin line in that book... The question is, why more of the average people who buy that book don't get fucked trying it....?

That was until I tried the Cloudveils. I tossed the holey BD's...afterward.

Stefan, If you are looking for plastics: consider any type of shell, preferably with a soft ankle, combined with one of those thermomolded liners. I believe Raichle (ski boot company) makes them. Feathered Friends carries them, as well as most good ski shops. My friend has severe bone spurs on his feet and ankles, from too many years of super tight sport climbing shoes, and his molded Raichle liners work very well in his plastics. Not sure about leathers, but good luck finding something that works!

Yeah, it was just a stupid theoretical problem that Charlie Fowler presented us at the end of a self-rescue course. That knot does work though...we used them back in Scout camp...back when they made you tie silly usless knots just to keep you from blowing shit up with white gas Anyone use that fifi hook/rubberband trick for doing single rope rappels though? Friends of mine have told me stories about a certain light-weight fanatic who insists on leaving the second rap line at home, opting for the fifi rap instead.

Mint Caffine Clif Bar, always a Snickers on the Summit.

Agreed, they rock. Those Cloudveil gloves rock too, way better than BD DRYfallapartbefortheendoftheseasonTOOL Gloves.

oh, cool. Thanks. I'll havta gett up there this winter and have a look.

If the fall of the bag was on a static belay, then the test was pretty meaningless as well. Except for maybe showing that a static belay will break gear. But whatever...

The wire is the strongest part of the biner. It will bend, but the aluminum will allways break first. Most of the companies that make wires have good photo's of wire biners broken in their testing facilities. The gate it'self is never broken, instaed the body of the biner is. Here is something to beware of though. Once on a totaly clusterfucked wall anchor, one of the biners got cross-loaded while it was weighted. All of the stress was on the wire gate, which caused it to bend sideways. later i was using the biner on lead and noticed that the gate no longer closed properly because it was bent. I was able to bend it back, but I used the biner for my water bottle for the rest of the climb. Just something to watch for.

NbyNW, Was the bag being belayed? Did they drop it off the top or what? Seems like a wild experiment...

Cat, I am not sure, exactly what you mean by "transversly," but I assume you mean cross-loaded. Here is the scoop with the wires... A wire gate is made out of steel, which is way stronger than aluminum (obviously) and flexible. So it is almost imposible to break the wire gate of a carabiner while climbing. You are more likely to breal the aluminum spine of the biner if cross-loaded. In that case, it really doesnt matter if the gate is wire or not. You're right about the vibration thing. The reason they vibrate less is because they have less mass. I would trust the wire gates just as much, if not more than a traditional biner, for any type of climbing. More importantly to worry about is the placement of the pro, and the location of the biner. But that's just my opinion. Charlie, I'd say just keep climbing and push through the rut. Be more conservative if that's what it takes. Placing more pro doesn't usualy limit your climbing, as long as your efficient. Just stay off x rated routes. Thats what I do anyway...carry tripples and sew it up if I'm scared. Nothing wrong with that as long as you come home at the end of the day...