Lambone

Good point. Trask is right, you get raped when buying a product at full retail price. But that is not necessarily the manufacturers fault. Most retailers mark up their gear by atleast 100%. It's the middle man that you should blame.

One of the funniest things I ever saw working at a gym was when some guy came up for a belay test... It was pretty obvious from the start that he wasn't going to pass the test, when he had a leg loop around his waist, the belay loop was in the back, and he invented some new way of doubleing back the buckle that I probably could never recreate. But he was not offended when I politley recomended signing up for our introductory class. Gym employees live for that shit, it breaks up an otherwise boring and redundant day.

Yeah, all you had to say was "California"

I have been on the other end of that test. If you have ever spent much time at a gym (obviously not), you'd understand why the tests are necessary. Some of the things I have seen in there have just blown my mind, and made me wonder how more people don't get hurt there. You gotta remember that gym's usualy have two types of employees. The climbing bum who dropped outa school and can't get a better job, but has been around the block and knows whats up, knows the difference between sketchy and anal. Then you got the other end of the spectrum, where the employee just barely has enough experience to be giving the lead test in the first place. They probably coudn't tell a gumby from Mark twight, so they treat everyone as if they are a gumby. Which is what they should do. If I were still working at the gym, and had givin specialedumacation a lead test, I'd just say "Dude, don't skip the clips, I know you could and all, but whats the point...just follow the rules so my boss don't yell at me and it'll be all good." The new girl was probaly like, "YOU'RE GUNNA DIE!" So which is the better attitude? Between one that brings back return customers, and one that maintains a level of "saftey???" I'm not sure. All I know is that a newbie that I once taught to lead in the gym got up on a route that was over his head, was too pumped to clip the last draw, so he gunned for the anchor. He fell of the finishing hold and decked from 35ft up. Maybe his belayer had something to do with it, but he wouldn't have decked if had just clipped the damn draw. The walls arn't very tall, so if you skip one, there is a good chance you will hit the deck should you fall. If they allow that, why even make ropes and lead tests mandatory...? I felt pretty guilty about my students mistake, but he was ok, and I tried to make it a learning experience for myself. What I realized is that it is a bad idea to make assumptions about someones ability, or knowledge. Just cause they have old school worn out gear doesn't meen they are experienced, and vise-versa. The smart thing to do is treat everyone equally and follow standards, that way individuals can't be offended by a policy. Anyway whatever...if making the poor chick cry didn't do it for you, I'm sure you'll patch your bruised ego soon enough in one way or another. You can start healing right now, spray on... Oh, and one other thing, please remember that I am a former gym employee, and that my opinions don't necesarily reflect the veiws or policies of any particular establishment.

I'm in with Alpine K. I'd be willing to bet that the majority (important term here) of Heli-skiers are folks from the city (i.e. New York, Chicago) with a lot of money to spend on skiing, but not much opportunity, do to time and geography, to practice avalanche skills. Then again I am sure many folks who go heli skiing do know their "shit" to some extent. Of course, I have never been, so what do I know...

Probably Mummies then. Nice climbing!

Didn't see any debris. There isn't much snow up there, and Avy conditions seem to be pretty stable. Things are pretty thin up there. But Syncro, Loose Lady and Carlsberg have ice. Another week or two of cold temps and they will be in good climbing shape.

Sal, A freind of mine blew ot a TCU on the Sheild and knocked his front tooth out. Best advice is to looks down when bounce testing.

We climbed: Oregon Jack (in the full moon ) Cherry Ice The Tube and Marble Canyon All were in good shape. The Tube was super fun, but bring Gore-Tex. We also attempted Loose Lady, but the last pitch looked a little too Loose for us (chandeliered + mushroomed ice) The approach pitches were fun. Also heard of climbers doing thge Rambles, Capricorn, Night'n Gale, and Syncronicity. Carlsberg looks climbable, but it is super thin. And Brook said that Salmon Stakes and Silk Degrees were not in. Marble was fun, but definately a picked out hooking fest, only a few people there on Monday. We bought some honey from Bob the "Honeyman." After parking in his driveway in the morning for Cherry Ice we felt obliged to. He was super friendly, and told us a bunch of cool stories about chasing Bears away from his bee hives in the old days. He makes some damn good honey! By the way, straight up from his place is not the best approach! He was laughing at us...instead park at the gated road and walk up the road to the water catchment facility. Be carefull, supposedly auto theft is a problem there. Honeyman falls is not in. Plenty of ice to climb up there, go get it, and have fun!

If "beyond" meens above, then it was Genesis 2.

Just to offer another opinion(again)... The Sportiva S boot (not the Trango S) is more than stiff enough for a route like Chair, and I had no problems climbing WI 4+5 in it. It was very light and comfortable, and allowed me to use my feet in ways that a plastic or heavy leather boot couldn't. They aren't waterproof, but my feet (the inside) never got wet, and they dry quickly overnight. The Trango series looks and feels sweet too, I'm sure they'd be great for Cascades mountanieering and any Ice climbing.

Thats the funnist shit I've read all day Necro!

Back in the day we called it Drainageaneering

If I was going to get tools for mostly alpine, and some ice, I'd get the Grivel Light Wing, they are sweet. if you plan on climbing a fair bit of ice, get the Cobras hands down, they are worth the$.

Cobras Tasty

But we should believe you...right? Sure buddy...

http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/SABSEA They are calling avy danger low to moderate for thursday, should decrease through the weekend. Still, don't underestimate the snowpack, be prepared and make good decisions. Have fun!

Check summitpost.com, they might know...

I'm not sure how much snow they got up there, 20 inches sounds like alot...but maybe. If the weather stays fairly dry and temps remain consistant, the snowpack should settle by the weekend. Snow Shoes would work fine, but be prepared for Avy danger. The slopes on the approch and descent are prime slide territory.

I adjust my android wrist loops about as short/close as possible to the thumb clip. I find it easier to use, cause it doesn't flop around so much...

Ain't like he's famous or nothin...just another dude. Punk ass bitch.

I like the older Lockdown leash better than the new ones... The multicolered webbing was thicker and "fuzzier," so they did't "loosen when unweighted" as easily. I almost dropped a Cobra on Saturday because the newer style lockdown loosened up and I didn't notice. Lockdowns have been my favorite since they came out in 97 or so, but the Android is growing on me quickly, too bad it has that crappy Robo tightening system, which never seems to stay tight. Haveta take 'em off when going to the mountains though, and thats a pain in the ass. If you can only afford one, go with the lockdown, it's more versitile. Don't buy Robo's the wrist loop thing sucks.

Ryland, It's Adam Knoff an aquaintence of mine from Bozeman. he lives here now with his twin brother Eric, they both work for RMI and are badass yet humble climbers. I don't think they follow the online scene, but they may be lurkers. If so, whats up Adam! Nice climbing fellas, you have inspired many with your awsome pics and TR's, thanks for sharing.

Yes, the Androids are identical as well, and the Lockdown...