Lambone

Well, I may be wrong about the minumum order thing, but I know for sure that usualy a shop can only get the special deals on stuff if they order in bulk. I always just half paid attention to the buying stuff, while reading climbing mags and leaning on the counter

But what about REI? One thing that I remember our buyer allways struggeling with at the last shop I worked at was filling the minimum order size through BD. It was a good chunk of inventory.

It's snowing right now. My folks have a foot in Tahoe, but it will likely melt off by the weekend. Thats how it is down there in the Spring. The Sierras can get hit with nasty storms one day and have 80 degree temps and sun the next. Generaly it has been a very dry winter, so you might expect more spring storms, but who knows, it may stay dry. Point is, if you go you are likely to get some awsome climbing in because the temps can be great at that time. But be prepared for violent spring storms that typicaly only last a few days. Good news is that south facing stuff dries out VERY fast, and there is a ton of stuff to climb in the sun. Have fun! What routes you lookin at? Check http://supertopo.com for more info.

Dustin, I carry 2 double lenth runners on alpine routes and up to 10-12 single length (depending on the route). I use the doubles for belays or big horns, and always seem to run outof single length runners no matter how many I bring... Oh yeah, it's also a good idea to bring some sling that you don'tmind leaving behind if you need to. Have fun!

Thanks, scott

I prefer to keep them on my shoulder as well, ice climbing or whatever. I just put them on the side so that I can get them with the hand I usually place screws with. I also usualy carry some regular quick draws or screamers for when they migt work better.

nevermind

This would make the second rappeling accident I have heard of at index this year. Sad stuff....

gene, I usually use a 37 meter rope when with 2 people. We "fold" it in thrids with a few extra fet on the slack end and tie in. This makes our coils ong enough to reach each other. I think it puts us far enough apart from each other, but have alway kinda wondered about that. What do you think, not far enough? Of course, then again I only usulay get on glaciers with one partner in late summer when the crevase danger is easily managable.

Had a great time at Ama Dablam, it is a stellar as they say. Nice photos, even though this thread is a blatant plug for your company...

Hey eric, when is the skiing on Shasta good until? i am moving down there in June. is it too suncupped by then?

Saw a guy on the Ingalls lake trail with a Parrot on his shoulder. My cat would have been stoaked that day!

Man that sucks...good luck mystery accident dude, best wishes. Each year I add to my climbing experience helmets become more and more atractive, even for 1 pitch roadside stuff.

Add to that list: Gri-Gri Fifi Comfortable harness lots more biners double shoulder racking sling stiff soled shoes these arn't necessities, but will inhance your enjoyment exponetialy some stuff to get ya started, there is allways more to get...

Just curious where you "checked" this? Who rates a manufacturer to be better than others? Backpacher magazine I would say Feathered Friends and Western make bags equal in quality of construction and materials. However, FF does make some that are more climbing specific, like half bags and such. FF also uses Epic shell fabric which may be better than Dryloft in many circumstances because it breaths better. However I love my WM Puma (although rarely need it around here).

I agree about the lockers on your daisies. I use the big pear twist snap lockers. That way i don't have to worry about losing my aliens, cause I often leave the most common sizes for the pitch attatched to the biner. I lost an aider and a cam using regular biners. Only problem is that your thumbs get sore from opening the biner so many times in a day

Muffy, If I were you, ie. i was buying new aiders, I'd get the ladder kind made by Misty Mountain or Yates. They kick but over the traditional BD and Metoliuis 5-6 steps. If you are going for the BD's or Mets, get one 5 step and one 6 step. The six step aider helps when you need to bounce test a high placement. Now I use a 6 step BD attached to each daisy (metolius adjustable) and a free floating 5 step that I re-clip at each move. I like the three aider system better than the 4 aider one. Less clusterfuck potential. Good luck, if you come down to Ashland this summer I'd be happy to help you out.

Too bad. The warm weather can really mess that road up big time. Cold dry snow is much friendlier in there than wet slushy stuff, obviously. Red-neck types still like to rally their big wheel trucks up there regardless of the conditions, unfortunately this can really ruin the day for your typical Toyota drivin' climber. The problem your un into in the spring is high-centering. My buddy has a heavy Defender 90 and we once spent all night winching the truck for almost three miles to get back to the dam. The winch cable was about 200 ft long, so you do the math In the future the best time for Hialite is Late Nov through mid Jan. Although most of the big flows will be super blue fat and untouched right now if you can get your hands on a sled!

Thanks yall! We are really looking forward to moving down there, it's going to be so nice to get away from the city. We just found a house this weekend, up in the woods, real quiet and peaceful. I am sad to leave the North Cascades, but with real jobs I think we will be able to afford a few trips up here per summer. Plus I always enjoy exploring a new zone, it is something to get exited about. I only wish I had gotten out more while living here...have to make up for it this spring I guess.

Regarding the static vrs. dynamic: If primarily using it to climb on I would get a sturdy Dynamic rope. Check out the Sterling Marathon line, their sheaths are extra tough, I can vouch for the durablity...plus you can lead on it. However, a good static rope is nice to have. I'm not sure if your planning to do much aid climbing, but hauling and fixing pitches with a static is the way to go. Never used the knot technique, and don't think I ever would. Hauling past knots is a pain in the ass.

Did ya go? To answer your question anyway, typically only bilers are getting up there this time of year. Although the past few years have been different. I'd bet it be a major chore to get to the Res. from there it's about a 4 mile, mostly flat ski.

Bolting ethics aside... I saw those rap anchors last year, and was perplexed. Why anyone would choose to risk getting their ropes stuck on some chickenhead or in a crack just to avoid a 30 minute 3rd-4th class descent (which isn't that bad) is beyond me. I just don't like rapping unless its absolutely necesary, to many people get messed up that way, the stats don't lie.

It's settled, were moving to Ashland! I'll be there in June, looking for anybody who loves to climb. let me know if your around that area!

leejams, Do a search on Glacier Peak, it's old news. We couldn't have gotten good stakes in where we were, and it was the jagged volcanic rocks that cut our guy lines. I wouldn't wan't to have my life dependent on getting stakes in the ground if the shit hit the fan.