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Lambone

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Everything posted by Lambone

  1. ...also, Cobras + Android leashes - $300, New pics.
  2. They have been treated well. Need tools? Pics like new...
  3. Need some gear for Denali? I need to sell this stuff ASAP! Sleeping Bag: -20 degree - Western Mountaineering Puma Dryloft, Size Reg. It's in like new condition, super lofty, super warm, clean. $250 (you can't beat that...anywhere) Boots: Lowa Civetta Extreme size 9.5 Gor-tex liners, great boot, great shape. $100 This stuff has been sitting in my gear closet for too long, I have other gear priorities at the moment. Take advantage of this deal.
  4. I just got the 300, it's sweet! Still learnin how to use it...
  5. I used to go on these solo back packing trips in Montana, and I mostly worried about grizzlies. One time I came face to face with a moose out in the back country and about lost my shit... But those are some of my most cherished experiences. It's been a while since I've done anything like that, but this summer I'm hoping to solo a wall, just to get that same feeling. 'Cause there really isn't anything like being out on your own, with no easy way home. Of course, I plan to have a rope, a comfy bed, a boom box and beers, so it's not really in the same class as Pacos alpine experience.
  6. solo the tooth...WHAT A MAINAC!
  7. maybe I should start a chinook club???
  8. I've seen this trick. Only the dude used a butterfly knot to attatch the thin rope to a locker that was clipped to the fat rope. He did it so he could rap the fat rope with his gri-gri. At first I was like, "what the hell is that...", but it is a good idea. But it also seems like something that would be more prone to getting stuck when you pull them.
  9. Yo Dawg, I think it deppends on what kind of General Mountaineering your talking about? If you mean a Volcano then they are perfect. If you mean the North Ridge of Stuart, then they are too much. Either way, Solomon makes good boots, and you should be happy with them. Maybe eventualy get a cheaper and lighter boot for trips when you don't need a big boot. I have a pair of La Sportiva S's for that case, and they are great for most things.
  10. oh yeah, belaying... The half rope system does take a bit more skill to work properly. It can get difficult to belay when you are trying to take in slack on one line and feed it out on the other, but with a little practice it's not so bad. One thing I do to help out my belayer is call out which rope I am clipping so they can give me slack on just that rope. Then they also know which rope will catch me first should I fall, and they can give that one priority.
  11. Get a set of half ropes. One of the big benefits of using a double rope system is the ability to reduce rope drag. You can do this with half ropes, but twins will be the same as a one regular rope. I like the Edelwise Stratos 9 mil ropes, but they are a bit heavier than others. I am confident enough using them individualy on easy mountain routes. They take a beating though!
  12. Man, if you can fit in a dancer, better just take up Sea Kyaking!
  13. And we did have a compas...that wasn't the issue. May it have been the driving ice storm...?
  14. yeah erik's right...and the zippers and stuff leak. Pro MOuntain Sports carries a bunch of cool ultralight tarps that would be great for exactly what you are talking about...
  15. (translation: I don't give a crap what you think allison!)
  16. Fish, Pika, BD...whatever as long as it's used but in good shape and affordable. Thanks.
  17. well...glad your havin fun. I'll let you have the last word.
  18. Wood, have you thought about trying some of the other Volcanos before Rainier? Adams, Glacier, and Baker all have some cool routes that would be good warm ups for the big one. Then you'd be more comfortable, and be more experienced then a lot of people that climb Rainier for the first time. Just don't sleep on top Good LucK!
  19. That's pretty cool, yeah things haven't changed that much! So I assume that "crack jumar" was the lingo for a cam back then?
  20. Yeah, crusty is just a good troller. I had moved on and he hooked me back in.... I admit I shoulda maybe started this whole discussion with a simple "what do you guys think about pins on GD." But, I was pissed when I saw them up there and it carried over here. I already apologized to ehmmic in private if I upset her. But really, what did she expect from people when she came out and admitted her sins. Realy though, don't get so edgy folks, after all it's only casccadeclimbers.com...and opinions are like assholes. But just so crusty doesn't acuse me of backpeddeling, I still feel the way I did from the beggining.
  21. Dude, crusty, caveman, ray, whatever the hell you want you call yourself...listen up cause I'm only going to say this once (although I've said it before). Maybe our rescue was unesecary. I never said that we were going to die otherwise. From the beggining we wer e 100% up front with the rescuers over the phone telling them that we were not in imediate danger of freezing to death, we were not injured, and that it was not an emergency. We called to ask them if they could tell our parents we were ok, because 911 was the only number we could call out to. We knew that we were going to miss our return day, and that our parents would call for us sooner or later. We told them specificly that we were ready to walk out as soon as the weather cleared, and not to put anyone in danger for us. The head of the SAR team determined that the weather was too unstable to predict a clearing, and he launched a rescue. Of course, the weather began to clear as they reached us and we walked off. Regardless, all the rescuers were really psyched to be out there on a succesfull mission. Anyway, back to the ethics thing. We didn't go up in a storm thinking that we'd just make a call if we got cold. From what I can tell (don't call me a freakin liar again cause it's all there) from ehmmics post, she took pins up the route just in case the rain made it too hard to climb otherwise. I think this is a bullshit excuse to nail on a route, regardless of what the guide book says. The thing that bothers me about this route is that it's wet in this spot for 90% of the year. So by the guide books logic, it is ok to nail pins on it almost all the time. So the route is going to continually change. I know you are agianst bolts being placed next to cracks (so am I), so it suprises me that growing pin scars don't bother you. Maybe thats just cause tough mountaineers use pitons, so they must be ok.
  22. I wonder if she has been done clean before...or if every party nails her...
  23. Lambone

    Last Ascent

    chainsaws are aid...
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