Lambone

Yosemite- '96 or so...tried an old route up above Commitment, it was crap, and we rapped off an old tat sling around a loose flake. Those were my young and reckless days. Bozeman 97 or 98 rapped of some sorry excuse for a dead pine sappling tring to get down from one of the Climbs Below Winterdance. It was stupid, but just about the only way off, sans downclimbing.

This should be in the Gear Critic forum... I've got a short Bulldog that I use as a third tool, and extra glacier tool. It hammers in Pickets much better then my Camp aluminum glacier axe, and I wouldn't be afraid to use it on a hard ice pitch. I even top rope with it for practice just in case I break a pick someday. Bulldogs rock, I got mine at Second Wind.

Big 4 ice caves are fun, way better than fake foam ice. Even fun in the rain...and a quick approach.

Non-Technical climb from the south side. About 8 miles from trailhead to summit. Dry scree trail now, would be more fun as an early climb/ski. It's a good work out, once the weather cools, in mid summer it's just hot. I haven't heard about any other routes, but the North side looks like it has some killer ski terrain. Are you from southern Oregon? I'm in Ashland and looking for a partner.

I'll see yall there...

David, You're not a moron...check this out. http://www.kleinbikes.com/us/mountain_bikes/attitude/attitude_v/index.html It has more or less the same components as the new Attitude V. By "stock", I just mean I haven't swaped any out. -XT rear derailur -Deore front and shifters -Avid V brakes -Rock Shock Duke fork -shimano spd pedals -Bontrager everything else.... I'm selling it on another web-site for $100 more, and have allready recieved 4 emails. CC.comers get $100 bucks off just cuz you my homies... I'll even bring it to Smith this weekend and save you shipping...

True.... I remembered the Wallowas after I posted that..., but they are a bit far for me.

Opps, its a Meduim frame. Klein does S,M,LXL It's about 17-18 inch. I'm in Ashland Oregon, but I'll ship it if we can come to an agreement on shipping costs. It's really in great shape, I hardly ever rode it in Seattle. I just recently started riding alot and got a good deal on a full suspension. I can also take some digital pics... glen, on this site, can atest to the quality of this ride, he rode with me down here just a few weeks ago.

Klein Attitude - $500 +shipping obo Stock Components Less than 100 miles on it-Great condition

Yeah, but most bolts one biner is fine. Where you NEED two biners, or some type of runner is when clipping into a pin. With only one biner it puts a kink in the rope, adding lots of drag.

Alpinefox's picture above is not of the Firefall from Glacier Point. It is Horsetail falls on El Cap at sunset. I've never seen a photo of the firefall, only artistic renderings...

AT+T doesn't work on Glacier peak...unless dialing 911...

Does anyone know of any routes, or peaks with good rock and route potential. I heard through a friend that Pioson Canyon has a 14 pitch moderate route. Sonehouse??? I was up there this weekend on a "camping" trip, and need to get back for some alpine granite. Any info would be great. Thanks

Ok, so it's not the Oregon Cascades, but it may be the closest sweet granite near Oregon. Does anyone know of any routes, or peaks with good rock and route potential. I heard through a friend that Pioson Canyon has a 14 pitch moderate route??? I was up there this weekend on a "camping" trip, and need to get back for some alpine granite. Thanks

Lamebone if they take"tons of energy" to place you aint doing it right. With the small threads they sink right in quickly, as a matter of fact. In fact with the round clip in hole in the hanger they can even be spun in with one finger almost like an express screw! Ok, so maybe I'm just spoiled with Express screws... I just have a hard time getting them started. I've placed two and equalized them at the crux of a Syncronicity and I was damn pissed that it was all I had left...which is what I get for letting Notgotnomoney bringing the rack...

I wouldn't trust these screws on a steep water ice pitch, plus you'd never get one in...they take tons of energy to place. However they do have some good uses. Emergency "leaver" screws if you need to bail. Light wiegth screws to beef up an anchor system. Also, lots of climbers in Nepal and stuff use them to fix lines for seige style climbing. Usually those ropes are fixed early in the season and left behind for later parties on standard routes. They are super light, so if you need lots of them at a high altitude it's a good way to go...you don't want to fall up there anyway.

I have been happy skiing in the BD Drytool Glove. Mabye wear a real thin liner underneath for extra warmth. As far as I'm concerned nothing will keep you dry. I think the Neoprene/scholler type materials stay pretty warm when wet.

1) Graduating from UW 2) Tangerine Trip on El Cap...and not killing my lame ass partner 3)Zodiac on El CAp- Solo Haven't climbed since....the real world sucks...

Isn't Clear creek a Talus field in the summer? We attempted the Hotlum-Bollum...got rained off the peak, but the route looked in good shape, we could see some icy sections from below.

names and dates. cough em up. dude I don't know their names or exact dates. a few years back some Euro's were caught up on the Shield with no fly and charged. Last fall a Brit took a bad fall, got hurt...and the Tool tried to charge him because he didn't have bivi gear. He was doing it in a push. If you want to hear about all the dead people just look it up in Accidents... I just think it's dumb to go up there in standard "slow-heavy" style without a fly. Sure if you are doinging the Nose, Lurking Fear, Salathe, or TD, or something with natural ledges in 3 days yes...but it's a big gamble to try to call the weather 1 week out and get stuck in a storm near the top. It has happened to several of my buddies and myself and we were damn glad to have a rainfly...that's all I'm getting at. Still, Leaning Tower sans ledge is a great first wall.

Bill, I'd becareful with that plan. Figure about $15,000+ to the Park Service should you need a rescue and not have a rainfly. It's happened several times in the past. If you do go without, either stick to the steep side...the Trip and Zodiac are well sheltered..., or blast up the Nose in a quick three days. But don't get caught in a watercourse. Consider a bivi sac worthless should you get caught in a full on storm on the Captain, you will want...and need a real shelter. But in mid-August all you should run into are afternoon thunderstorms....unless you are unlucky or just plain foolish enogh to charge up in front of a pacific storm. on

Bill, Don't worry...most likely your fly will rest in the bottom of the haulbag. IF you do have to pull it out, you will be thankful that there are no vents, or extra seams/doors that may leak. Storms come in hard and fast in the valley. You want something water tight that will work for the night. Don't worry about breathablility, everything WILL be wet anyway. Forget about cooking, cold Spaggetti O's are the order of the day. Now if it was an expidition up some alpine wall it would be different. But for the valley where you need quick bomber protectin, Urathane coated flys are all you need. Have fun, good luck...think up!

hey wazzu, Profets are great tools,but they will feel and swing totaly different than the Machines. They will be heavier and the weight is more balanced throught the shaft, but most of all you will notice a big differance in the lake of curve in the shaft. I climbed on Bent Shaft BP's for a while and still love them. It is a beefy tool with a much wider grip than the Machine. But it is a great all around tool. As far as bent vrs. straight...ask yourself what you will be doing more of, Alpine Ice Gullies, or Waterfalls, and buy acordingly. I was also very happy with the shrieks. It feels much lighter and is easier to wield than the BP. But if you really want my advice, quit procrastonating and get yourself a pair of Cobras.

nice job tex! Nose in a day is a very prowd send! You were king for a day, times don't matter, non-stop is what seperates the men from the boys, I aspire to get there someday. The Trip will go in a push, specialy with all those new bolts! If I were to do it though, I'd probably fix the first 4 and blast, cause those pitches suck and eat up a bunch of time. Email me if you want specific, current beta. Nice job again! Cheers

yeah, chucks got it right. definately bring a Reverso if you do it that way with three. Good luck! Keep movin!