Lambone

Feathered Friends

Hey b, We took a 37meter 7.8mil up the North Ridge, and climbed with it doubled the whole way. On the Gendarme, it BARLEY reached the 1st belay at the top of the pillar, and I had to belay a bit short of the best stance on the second pitch. It worked well because I was able to pull one strand through to haul the packs with, but we BARLEY got away with it. A 30 meter doubled would definately not reach. I'm not sure how youd make it work with three people and a 50 meter...

Tim, I wouldn't be put off by the talk of crowds. If you hit it right you'll have no problem. Do the classics, there is a good reason why they are popular. Try to do Cathedral and Fairview on a weekday. Many of the "crowds" are weekend warriors from San Fran. On the weekend go up to Conness or Matthes Crest, most of those "crowds" don't like to stray to far from the car. West Crack is a great late evening route. The top out just at sunset is beautiful. North Peak near saddle bag lake has some fun Coulior to 4th class ridge climbing if you need to rest your fingers. It is a great day trip. One of my favorites. Too late for freshiez though... Bring Bug dope. Have a blast!

Back to the top, We are here now, still looking for climbing partners, cool folks to drink beers, go biking, sailing, or generaly be friends with. Drop a line...cheers

It's the closest big peak to home these days, can anyone recomend a fun route this time of year? Gracias

G14's work well on the S's also.

These are some comment's I made to Jim Nelson about some big wall Gear I aquired at his shop. Thought it might be of some intrest here. Let me know if you have any questions.... Lowa Triolet- Awsome wall boot! Super tough, my rands and all the stitching are still in great shape. I climbed some 5.7 in them with full wall weight on, and they worked fine. Sticky rubber is the only thing that could make them perfect for me. I bought the womens model and they fit my narrow foot well. Nice and comfy in the aiders all day, no preasure points. Mamut Supersafe- Bomber. Plus it has a nice supple feel. Ours didn't take a single sheath nick. It was kinda funny because with three people we needed two lead ropes, we ended up using two identical Supersafes, tons of green rope to un-fustercluck! Kong Fifi- I love this thing, but as a WARNING: the orange 5 or 6 mil chord you sell at the shop is NOT thick enough. After it softened up, it would slip. Acctually the two chords that "bite" on one another would exchange places and it would no loger grip. Do you know what I meen by that? Metolius Adjustable Daisies- I think I am over these things. They may save energy on overhanging terrain, but I found that cranking in on the straps all day on lead was realy fatiguing on my shoulders. I had to quit tighting them with my right arm. I think overall they slow you down and add more fustercluck then they are worth. Plus with a Kong Fifi they are just redundant. Also, there were many times when they just wern't long enough, even at full extention, and once at full extention they are hard to tighten because there is nothing to grab. I'm going back to traditional daisies. Petzl Mini-Traction- Great little hauler, I am happy with it. We primarily used it to haul up our tag rope (8 mil) with the extra ropes and junk with. No complaints, it did it's job well. Our Pro-Traxion, which was our main hauling device worked great. HOWEVER, warn people that it can slip. The cam would not catch the load on one pitch when we clipped the locking biner straight into the bolt. I think it needs to maintain some mobility by clipping it into a flexible sling. With a degree of freedom it worked fine. I also use both pulleys together to rig a 3:1 on the first day (heavy ass pigs). CCH Alien Hybrids- Without a doubt, the most valuable piece on the rack. All your aid climbing costomers should buy two sets, if you can keep them in stock. Enough said. HB Offset Nuts- The second most valuable pieces on the rack, especialy the yellow, green and blue brass ones. The aluminum ones are nice two, we had two sets and didn't even bother with regular nuts. WC Zero's- I had one Green one. I didn't use it much, but it did allow me to avoid using Lost Arrow pins at one point. It's a handy clean aid piece, but easy to get it stuck. Trango Ballnutz- Similar in use to the Zero, used in lost arrow scars, helped avoid nailing at a few points. Difficult to clean after bounce testing and pretty fragile. Smart Wool thin shirt- Thins thing was great! I wore it the whole way up El Cap and it never felt hot in the sun, and it kept me warm when the cool evening breezes would pick up. Only two complaints, it doesn't seem to be as durable as other synthetic shirts I have used in the past, it shrunk a little in the wash, and it is permenantly discolored, but not a big deal. I just hope that it holds up for a few more walls. Hmmm, well that is about all I can think of right now...

Not sure if it was said, but cut up an old retiered rope and bring the pieces to sling holes. Alot of the slung holes have very sun-bleached and generaly crappy chord through them. What is a "slung hole" you may ask...ah you'll find out soon enough, eh...

Took my last final today...ever... Damn that feels good. Time for beers and Big Walls. Peace out folks, see ya in Yosemite or Ashland. If your drivin through and need a place to crash give me a shout, we got room. The Cascades have been good to me and I will miss this range, and the great partners that I've made here. But...I hope to be back often, and once i have a job I will be here sprayin 40 hours a week

It's a cool place. We got the hell out of bancock and Krabi ASAP and headed for the beach. Ray-Lay (Sp?) Beach is the most convienient place to stay, but not the cheapest. There are about 4-5 bungalo services to choose from, some better than others, some cheaper. Lots of cheap seafood! Bring yer sunscreen and chase the shade. Also, get a mat to help keep the sand off everything. Bring anodized biners if you have them, the salty air corodes regular aluminum pretty quick. There are some trad routes, but probly not worth bringing a rack. Get the guide book at the local shop (King Climbers I think...). It tells you what routes have been rebolted, stick to those. Most of the popular moderate routes have been rebolted, with big ring glue-in stainless steel jobs. Donate some $ for the effort. Enjoy, it's a great place, bring lots of chalk and drink tons of water!

don't know...I did the clinic saturday and climbed at index on sunday... bummer if you missed the bar'b'que and slide show, it was cool. There were about 100 folks there, bugers, beer, slacklines...a good time was had. Thanks Feathered Friends!

My wife and I are planning a trip next winter. Probly just a trek, but thats cool cause I'd just like to see those cliffs with my own eyes. Plus it will be easier to appreciate the beauty with out the stress of getting routes in. Plus I'll b more inspired to go back with a partner... Yeah, I know...no cell coverage down there, so STFU

thats cool, I expected it. about 8 people showed up and the clinic went great. It's allways good to go over that stuff... notice I wasn't offering a glacier rescue clinic, in that case all you would need to bring is a cell phone

Hi folks, I am going to be giving a self-rescue clinic at Leavenworth this Saturday from 2-5 for the Feathered Friends Rockfest. We will focus on basic self rescue techniques for multipitch rock climbing including: Load-Release knots Escape the Belay Passing the Knot Assisted lowering Basic Hauling With three hours we should have plenty of time for demonstration and ground practice. The clinic is free, but Feathered Friends would like you to register beforehand. Here is the info: http://www.featheredfriends.com/other/Rockfest.htm I have no idea how many people are signed up already, but the more the merrier. Some familiarity with the munter-mule knot and other standard knots would be helpfull, but is not required. Bring a few big locking biners, some spare biners, one or two cordelletes. Hope to see you there. Any questions, just post here or send an email.

To the TOP!

Now that's some good spray, Attitude! I have a pair of Camp Aluminum Strap-ons, and they work awsome. I am pretty confident on taking them anywhere that doesn't involve rock or vertical ice, and they are light as hell.

What kind of boat did you get David? We just bought a Catalina Capri 22, can't wait to put her in the water!

Hi folks, I am going to be giving a self-rescue clinic at Leavenworth this Saturday from 2-5 for the Feathered Friends Rockfest. We will focus on basic self rescue techniques for multipitch rock climbing including: Load-Release knots Escape the Belay Passing the Knot Assisted lowering Basic Hauling With three hours we should have plenty of time for demonstration and ground practice. The clinic is free, but Feathered Friends would like you to register beforehand. Here is the info: http://www.featheredfriends.com/other/Rockfest.htm I have no idea how many people are signed up already, but the more the merrier. Some familiarity with the munter-mule knot and other standard knots would be helpfull, but is not required. Bring a few big locking biners, some spare biners, one or two cordelletes. Hope to see you there. Any questions, just post here or send an email.

Woohoo!

No he didn't quit, but he has better stuff now...

I agree %100 Tex, my thoughts exactly...

Not Beta...he was the man! I loved watching him humbley put the VW sportos to shame in his EB's...I can only imagine his grace out on the granite. The first time I saw him at Index he was giving up a beautiful climbing day to pick up trash. Next time I saw him he was working hard on preping a new route. He gave alot to to our community, and will be missed.

Yeah dude, f*&k Howie...punk ass can't even bring a bro some water.

Shit, was tonight the only showing?

check the climbers message board at Camp 4, you'll find partners there. Just make sure they know their shit before plotting something big. Some of my best and worst climbing experiences have been with strangers met in camp 4. Have fun, good luck!