Lambone

Cool climbing on not so cool rock. I'd give the rock a C and the veiw an A+!

Its cool, go do it! Only a bit of crevasse navigation right out of camp, but its pretty low key. Have fun!

Watch it buddy... I've been queing in my pre req's for the T-Klan. Spraying is way more fun than homework. Its all good until someone takes it personaly, or your boss reads it!

Spent Friday feeling like we were going to be blown off of the Sunrise Camp on Mt. Adams. We forgot the cards so my fiancee and I played twenty questions for about ten hours, wishing we had more food. Saturday we climbed above the clouds to the summit! We shared the Mazama Glacier with one other super friendly Aisan man until we hit the chain gang on the South Spur. The Mazama is a great route, and I'd recomend it to any begginer/intermediate glacier travelers. There was only a bit of crevase navigation right out of Sunrise Camp. It got my eyes opened! BTW- Everyone complains that the Native Americans on the Yakima reservation are rude. This was not my experience. The female officer/ranger(?) that we spoke with was really nice. Way freindlier than the two old bats at the US Forest Service office. She even said that she'd check and make sure we got out ok on Sat night. I was happy to kick down 20$ to the Reservation. Also, no need to buy a Volcano Permit if you are on Reservation Land. Bird Creek Meadows is the way to go!

Can anyone offer any usefull beta (besides what I can read in Nelsons book)? Thanks!

Try...? Do... or do Not... There is no try. YODA

Whillans slacklines? I thought that was a new school trick! I gues you can teach an old dog... FYI: I don't own a cell phone.

The Rocks are softer than the pad(In the Gym). We have had folks twist their ankles pretty bad from landing wrong on the pad. It works best for horisontal bouldering. The key is to be loose and absorb it. Bend your knee's and let your body crash, or bounce! There are no stupid questions!

Newbie, Quick suggestion: if your knees are bad like mine, cary big two liter water bottles up Li Si. Then dump'em out at the top. You'll save your knees on the way down. Off of I-90, Snow lake trail is good. And, Ingalls Lake trail is fun. Good Luck!

We are goin' nude the whle way man! Thanks

So, it doesn't sound like there is much for crevasse danger in route... dis the case? My lady and I are considering that route for this Fri. Thanks.

Hey officespace, Please don't intrude on my thread, your sarcastic comments are not welcome here. This is for friendly posts only! One more and your gettin a lawsuit But really, sorry the weather crapped out on you. Fredrogers' Thanks, you allways seem to come up with great suggestions. And they are always presented in such a modest way. Are you one of those "in-the-closet" hardmen? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).] [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Jees, I go to work for the day and look at what this poor inicent trip report turns into. I love you guys... Aidan, lets go climbing sometime!

Thanks Ev, sounds like its your turn. Good Luck! Still its all relative, it ain't like we bagged the Chek Direct in 56 hours or anything. But I did kind of feel like a Twight prodige sucking down GU at hour 23! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Aidan, There was a couple a head of us, and the guy was a total prick... so yeah it was probably him. They held us up a bit, but we got the last laugh as they decided to bivi half way down the descent. We wanted to combine our efforts to find the right way down that thing in the dark, four headlamps better than two and all... But they wouldn't have it, I guess they were to cool for us. Mountain renegades I tell ya. You should totaly do the route. But keep in mind that a fall would be pretty serious up there. The climbing isn't hard, but there is alot of loose rock. Question every hand and foot hold. Test everything! You don't want a lawsuit on your hands! Thats the main reason I posted this trip report, not to spray about my climb, but to inspire aspiring alpinists like myself. Get after it dude! You the man... [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Caveman the conquerer!

Cavey, I just have to say that your motives are just all screwed up man! One day you want to restore the rock to its original state, and the next day you want to rape the rock of its natural boita. Did you consider how many organisms you murdered when you scrapped that moss off? You must like killing bugs as much as bolts!!!

Sorry erik, the only reason I'm looking at this stupid computer is cause I have to be at work in a couple hours. You'll have to pull a solo mission. Bring two six packs!

I'm on my way Dru! Grab your shovel! No, grab two shovels, we may break one!

What can I say, Dwayners rubbing off on me! Sorry it didn't work out bro, at least it ain't goin nowhere! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Huh? Whatcha mean? You talkin about beers again! If so I'm glad that wasn't you behind us. Those boys must have been hurtin'!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Ev, Light hikers on the approach, rock shoes on the climb. I remember doing alot of smearing on slabs and such. You could do it in boots, but it wouldn't be as fun!

If it's raining, all you have to do is get yourself a sixpack, head up to Index with you aiders and get mid-evil on that shit!

quote: Originally posted by EV: IAMBONE: When did you start and when did you finish, car-to-car? Also, did you do the entire north ridge, or did you skip the lower pitches? Finally, how many "pitches" were there, and how much would you say was done as running belays? TIA EV, Sounds like you want some specific beta. I wasn't going to spray about this unless someone asked. So, here goes... We did the upper ridge. We left the car at 2:30 am. Friday Hit Goat Pass at 7:30 am. The notch at 9:30 am. Gendarm at 3:30 pm. Summit at 6:30 pm. 16 hours car to summit Ingalls Creek trail at 11:30 pm. Ingalls Lake-don't ask... Car-9:30 am.Saturday 16 hours summit to car Total-32hours Total sleep time 2-4 wet shivering hours! I did't count how many pitches we did, I would guess about 10 (8 were REALLY cool!). And we simo-climed on about half of them. Rope drag was a big problem, I would suggest tying in short with only 30m between each climber. Bring doubles on pro and lots of big slings if you want to simo alot of it. There are lots of good belay ledges that are hard to pass up! I think this is a very do-able pace. We were really tired from only two hours of sleep Thursday night so we were taking it super slow and carefull. Saftey, not speed record was our primary goal. Our only concern was reachin' the summit before rain, and Coluoir before dark. DO NOT underestimate the decsent (we did), if you don't know the right way (we didn't) it can really suck, and be very dangerous. I was very glad to have crampons on Stuart Glaicer at 8:00 am Fri. And was very sad that my warm sleeping bag was at Ingalls Lake at 2:00 am Sat. I'd cary it over next time or leave it where Longs Pass trail meets Ingalls Creek trail. We skipped the Gendarm because we were beat, but at least I have a reason to go back and do it again! Hope this helps, get on it! It's as good as they say it is! One more thing... it's Lambone!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-29-2001).]

Cavey, Dude, how come you post with the angry face all the time now? How did the N Ridge go? Was that you behind us? I hope it wasn't epic.