Lambone

Cool, hey dan, did you spend anytime looking at Serendipity? If so whats it like? Thanks...

Moonstone's also coming back around. Yes it's all too expensive, but only for suckers who pay full retail. At least get it on sale...

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: It would be unlikely to find good ice in Lee Vining canyon in late March. Actually, for most ice-climbing areas in the lower 48, late March is sketchy. And that time of year is also too early for the alpine ice routes (like U notch).It's a great time of year for J-Tree, though. I have climbed in Cody in late March, fat plastic ice, t-shirts, wet ropes, it was a blast and super safe. The north facing stuff stays in for a while out there, cold clear nights and all.

After hiting the 3000 mark Cavey must have taken a personal day, or maybe he called in sick. Must be giving his wrist a break...

Your too funny will, I can't hang... P.S. From my experience, some Born-Agains make very good wall partners. [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Wild Things...

Whatever bitch

Great route, even has another step after that. Avalanche Gully and The Climb Above start after that as well, just incase you wanna make it a really long day.

We have it at the Gym...oh wait, no nevermind you wouldn't come down there anyway. Some good tics in Hyalite(Grade 3-4)are... Twin FallsThe DribblesPalisade FallsMummy 2 +The SceptorAnything in the Genesis area Cleopatras Needle is an awsome WI5 - big fat pillar, 2 pitches. Thrill is Gone is the best intro to hyalite mixed climbing. Also check out the Green Gully in Paradise Valley south of Livingston. Blodgett Canyon near Missula has a couple of grade 3's. Lots of cool stuff 2 hours down the road in Cooke City Wy. my favorite grade 3+, 4 there is Hydromonster. Cody rocks, but is more like 3-4 hours from Bozeman. Trust me. Fastest I've made it to the 'Zone from Seattle was 11 hours, in the summer, pissing in a cup. La Parillia is the best burrito place in the Northwest. [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

nevermind...sorry Ed, good luck.

So its starting to come down to the wire, and my regular partners are still iffy about going up this weekend. My other buddies have partners lined up already and I hate being a third wheel. I got three days off and I wanna climb some stuff, anything...but preferably cool stuff. This may be my last chance to go to Lilooet this season...wanna come with? I can drive. BTW- Where the hell is the CRACK-head? [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

It's about 8 hours to Missula, 12 to Bozeman...give or take depending on conditions over the pass in Idaho. There are some big ice routes in Glacier, but you may need a snowmobile to get in there. Or plan on a long ski in. There are a few routes near Missula. And tons of cool stuff in Bozeman. Again, road conditions into Hyalite can make or break a trip. Look for the Montana Ice Guide by Ron Bronkhorst(sp.) And checkout Montanaice.com or something like that. There is great ice in Montana, but the BC Rockies arn't a whole lot further.

Anybody get a look at Capricorn?

word

I have had a friend or two get buried in the Rockies. The tranciever came in pretty handy to them, although I wasn't there so I can't say for sure what happened... Don't forget that alot of avalanche fatalities occur due to trauma, shock, or hypothermia. I would spend the money on a good avalanche course before buying a beacon. That will give you a better idea of how to avoid triggering slides (where not to be), especially how to avoid triggering them on top of other people. I'd agree that trancievers give some people (ignorant peole) a false sense of sequrity. They think a tranciever is a pass that allows them to get on gnarly terrain. I used to be that way, and I speak from experience when I say that its a bad way to be. Then again, this ain't the Rockies... It seems like most days you'd have to actually try to trigger an avalance around here. Last word:If you don't have a peeps, at least carry a probe. [ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, and Ice is not a commodity...

Who are you refering to dude?

Dru,Whatever, Deeping is a wide flow, not a fragile chandeliered pillar or something...don't you think there is a difference? Plus the warm ice up there is bonded to the rock really nicely. I see where you are coming from, but I don't think it applies on that route. Anyway, Deeping wall has been led. Albeit by crazy mother fuckers. [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Hey man nobody was ripping on you here, but I think we've got the same opinion...

Y'all have a point there. I have allways enjoyed testing the limit of my placements while on top-rope. It helps me find the minimum amount of purchase that I can get by with before coming off. Practicing this has helped me learn to lead and follow faster. But you wouldn't find me using the weakest placement possible while soloing or leading... [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Everybody all ways trash talks people who top-rope ice as if it is a disgracefull act that the persuers should be ashamed of. I think that's bullshit... Of course, the right of way should be given to folks who wish to lead the first pitch of a multi-pitch ice climb, thus providing them access to the upper pitches. Aside from that I think T.R.-ing Ice at any grade is a blast. It allows you to try all kinds of stuff that you may never have the balls to try on lead (i.e. going leashless, hard unprotectable lines, dynamic movement, and insecure body positions, etc.) All this without the fear of getting broken. I am also all for treading lightly on Ice, inorder to preserve it for the next party. When your on T.R. you can afford to swing lightly and hook alot more. When I'm on lead I tend to want to bash a belay in with each swing. So maybe toproping is better for high traffic areas like Marble Canyon. Anyway I know there are people out there who think top-roping Ice is sacreligious. Whats your take on it? Spray makes the stress go away...

Easy on the rayisms...best not fuck with caveman on Monday morning. I just think toproping hard shit is hella fun sometimes. In a no stress smoke a bowl kinda way...

Yeah your more of a Rambles type of guy arn't ya Caveman.

I like the lightweight (ie. foam) helmet made by Camp. It fits well and is easy to adjust. It's best to keep it on the inside of your pack to avoid superficial, but scary looking dents in the shell. Kinda spendy though... Check and see if the "crag hat" is UIAA aproved before you buy one. [ 01-13-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]