hollyclimber

Hey, I just got bailed on last night so I now have Thur-Sunday free and no climbing plan. Since I have an recovering finger, I am interested in during something Alpine or aiding... Maybe W Ridge of Forbidden and Sahale in Boston Basin or something out of Colchuck lake...or W Ridge of Prussik... Or, I would be up for almost any glacier climb or aiding in Index or Squamish... I don't really want to go "cragging" for these 4 days...I want to make the most of a long weekend... PM me if you are interested. I prefer to go with someone I already know. I will only be able to check for messages once this afternoon... Erik will give anyone we know my cell phone number if you reach him. HGB

So three double-rope raps got you off Serpentine? I thought most people walked off... Did you check out Backbone at all?

that bolt has been there for a long time, yo. at least a couple of years now. surprised that the mounties were surprised about that, since they climb it so much...

Personally, I don't think it is true that guys who are serious climbers are hard to date. I think it can be a great thing. Better than dating someone who doesn't climb at all, or who doesn't really care. Otherwise, he can't truly understand my goals and share in the excitement of my accomplishments. You have to be able to climb with your man at a level that he enjoys though, or you will only get the "girlfriend weekends". (same goes the other way of course...my old boyfriend got the "boyfriend" weekends and the rest of the time I climbed with others) Otherwise, it can be a cool partnership. I have my own climbing objectives, which I pursue on the weekends that my SO is going out and climbing his stuff. We talk a lot about what routes we want to do, and if we have the same route on our list, often we decide we will do it together. At the same time, we maintain our own climbing partners and have no problem with the other person choosing to do a cool route with someone else, even if we want to do it too someday. Do I miss my boyfriend when he is gone for weeks in Alaska? For sure. But its a great time to do my own roadtrip to Zion. When he is off climbing on the weekdays in the N Cascades and I am home fixing my hot water heater alone, it kind of sucks. If he wants to live in Canmore for three months this winter fine...then he will climb hard on the weekdays and I will hitch rides to Banff on the weekends to improve my iceclimbing. But nothing beats getting him back when he gets home, even dirty and grungy with a tan and a mountain beard is pretty sexy. I think climbing makes our lives more interesting, and the times apart make our time together more intense. Our shared goals give us things to work towards together. When he is gone climbing, I can use the time do things he is totally not interested in and maintain my relationships with the other people in my life. When I am gone climbing...I am climbing!! I think that the fact that some serious climbers aren't fun to date probably has less to do with their climbing and more to do with just THEM. It will be interesting to see how Will's friends survey/project turns out that many of us probably participated in. Anyway, I am keeping my climbing man and I have zero complaints.

I think GU may have 10 more calories? That matters to me because I need every bit of extra energy. I never used GU before I started doing some marathon climbing (ie keep on climbing into the dark and doing walls). I kept finding myself crashing even when eating what I thought was a good amount at belays and also having a GU every couple of hours. Now on a wall I will do a GU every 1/2 hour to hour, and the same amount of food that I used to eat at the belay stations. That means for three days on a wall, you need more than 30 packets of GU! Interesting though is that pound for pound, GU isn't that weight efficient, since it is liquid. But you cannot beat the convenience. And, for me on a long route, eating is a chore that has to be done, so GU fits the bill-fast and easy. You should be able to find someone to sell you GU wholesale, and if you buy the multiflavor packs I think its cheaper. If you like Chocolate, a real deal is available, because I will be giving that flavor away cheap out of my multipacks. We'll be ordering our cases pretty soon for the Valley. Any orders for chocolate?

I didn't read any of the other stuff, but... My orthopaedist is Dr. Charles Peterson Jr, at Seattle Ortho & Fracture Clinic. He is good and understands the needs of the outdoor types. I just got cleared to get back in business today! Damn primary care misdiagnosed my injury and I am tendon detachment free! On to some buddy taping and climbing... hgb

erik erik, help me! lock down the thread! the avatar known as Willans insulted me and I am so hurt!! make him stop! oh yeah, Erik is at Wa Pass already...oh well. PS - Advantages to being ugly... My climbing partners' girlfriends don't get jealous, so I don't have any problems with that I can use the stall in the men's restroom without a second glace, so no lines Never get that second look from a ranger in the Valley, so they don't notice me or which van I am illegally sleeping in...same for Paradise parking lot Never have the problem where people assume a good looking girl can't crank (a few shallow minded people actually think this...good thing it doesn't affect me)

red I love... green and yellow, tied for my second favorite... offset aliens... now those are the actual shiznit. but, if I had to pick just one alien it would definitely be red... Dru is right though, brands with no pro deal are a big bummer. Gotta find the guy out of money in the Valley to pick them up.

Am I missing something, or can we assume SK has never met either Erik or Cavey? After all, anorexic is way off base... The cool thing is, and the truth is (and I will leave Cavey out of this so that no other chicks complain to me as they have before) Erik IS FAT, and that is just one thing that makes it so cool that he cranks. And, a little extra fat at a cold bivy can be nice. Plus, its a good excuse to make Erik carry more shit. Strength to weight ratio could be an issue for sick face climbing, but then that is for sportos...Extra fat layers rock for fun 5.10 offwidth. And, if it really comes down to it, secret weapons can be used on the hard face climbing, as long as all tendons are intact... other ben-e's are...bomber belay when the fat guy is the belay anchor, good opposition for a heavy haul bag (my biggest reason for wishing I weighed more)(but at least that means there is a good reason to let Erik haul on day one for the benefit of the team), something sturdy to hold onto during river crossings, fat boy's extra clothes fit over your regular clothes expanding the available layers at multi-hour belays without ever having to share your own clothes, and more that I better not mention... So, you might not want to question people's fatness unless you are purposefully trying to downplay their climbing abilities and overall appeal as a partner....

I'll be there the whole month most likely, but at least three weeks...

guess we will be at the zoo with an inhaler and clothes that can be easily laundered.. [ 06-18-2002, 04:51 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ]

I vote for the Alki Tavern. There is much better parking and you can't beat the price for dinner. Wimpy burgers rock.

hey DUR-T, your autosig is broken...

This is funny! I hate birds! I am anti-Peregrin Falcon for sure...after all, I need some Negro Lesbian action and I didn't want to wait until July, then there was the great suspense for the Tramp in May, but luckily she had freed herself of the birds. I have been dying to setup my ledge, maybe Cavey will let me tag along. hgb

I don't think it is a hoax. People have talked about it for a long time. The hollow flake is the site of many accidents. But, I guess the only way to be sure is to go climb it. hgb

Check out this sh#t that was posted on rec.climbing, dated today May 22, 2002. --------------------------------------------- I just got an email from a friend who climbed the Salathe Route on El Cap this weekend. About halfway up the notorious, unprotected (even by large cams, though Big Bros would work), character-inducing Hollow Flake are a pair of big, fat 3/8" bolts. This completely changes the nature of one of the most famous pitches in American rock climbing. I wonder how long those bolts will last... --------------------------------------------- I know some of our posse are in the Valley now...maybe one of the DDD choppers can get to work on this?

Dru has the ticket. I never have to wait for routes.

http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm

I call it ledge-itis (my friend RumR used to say that years ago). No real recommendations except I tell myself that I am just being lazy and that the little holds above will be easy too, so get on them. hgb

Some dumb site that is picking the best websites... But, they allow write-ins, so if we all go there and write in CC.com, it would win. Of course, that would bring even more people who don't even climb in the cascades to our site, so forget it, don't vote... http://www.webbyawards.com/peoplesvoice/index.html

if you clean your bottle and fill it with water and take it in your carry on and drink out of it (if they try to take it away), they won't take it.... I don't do that, but I have a friend who does after he got his empty clean bottles removed from his packed and checked suitcase.

well, we know there was a personal aspect to the locking of the TC thread...he he he

Don't forget big walls as a category

Sorry we had to run last night... hope everyone had a fun time. I wished I could have stayed to enjoy - I didn't even get to have any wimpy burgers but I had another obligation. Maybe I will see some of you outside this weekend in whatever area looks like it will have the best weather. Holly

Hey Jules!I didn't have time to read everything that has been written, but I agree with pretty much everything I have read. My additional comment is that I am surprised (or was...now I expect it) that I can't get basically everything on REI.com. For example, you can't get the McNamara supertopo book. It seems like to me that irrespective of the selection in the store, the website should offer almost every product that people buy. I expected REI.com to be like Amazon. I don't really like shopping there, but I try to get something from them when I don't have time to go and get it myself. They pretty much never have what I want. Also, REI should have more big wall gear. They basically have none right now. What I think is funny is pretty much everytime I go to REI to buy something, they send me to feathered friends. Whether it be an Avocet altimeter watch when mine got ripped off last year or cord or webbing. And it is sad when a store like that runs out of any type of cord or webbing. You would think they know their own usage. Every year after the mountaineers basic course starts they are bone dry. hgb [ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: hollyclimber ]