hollyclimber

Trip: Cutthroat Peak SW Buttress (aka S Buttress) - Date: 8/3/2008 Trip Report: After our excellent day on the E Face of Lexington Tower, I wanted to climb a Peak but have at least a little technical moving on Rock, along with some training with a pack as part of my Seattle “get into shape to come home and climb harder” program. (See E Face report here… http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/824431#Post824431) So, we chose the moderate Cutthroat Peak, SW Buttress (also known as the S Buttress). I have to admit, while I had a great day climbing, the wildflowers really made the day for me. I spent a fair amount of time geeking out on taking pictures of the wildflowers. I even stopped in the middle of the mud to take a picture of the first pink Indian Paintbrush I have ever noticed. Don’t these only come in orange in Yosemite??!! And, given that my camera was shutting off at the first picture of the day due to “no batteries”, I got a ton of pictures before it shut down about 40 min before the day was done. Anyway, the approach was steep and strenuous. I was working hard. It was nice that we had started early (7:20 am) as the cooler weather made for much more comfortable hiking. I had offered to carry the rope while Stewart carried our 6-7 cam rack (ok with slings and some nuts), as I wanted the training weight. Of course, I was slower than Stewart anyway, so I was always lagging behind, but I did my best to keep up. The scenary on the way in was truly gorgeous. The mosquitos were as viscious as the scene was beautiful! Here is a view of the Peak as we saw it on the approach (although this was taken in the afternoon on the way down). By my calculations we did 1 hour to Camp and 1 hour to the start of the route. At any rate, after two hours of hiking and scrambling, we were ready to rope up. Here is me simul-following the first pitch. We did the route in two leads, although we moved the belay twice during my leads on the second block. Stewart started his lead with the 5.7 “traverse” up a steep face. No traverse in sight, and really no 5.7 either, but he did put in two pieces of pro, and I did ask him to stop simuling while I removed one of them, so it was 5th class for sure. Then, lots of third and fourth class, but quite a few nice sections of thoughtful 5th class climbing. Near the beginning of the first block, Simul-ing Stewart not in view Stewart about ½ in his block on one of the interesting moves. Looking down on the route so far… At this section here, right where the pro is located, I seriously had a hard time moving right! Of course, trying to jam with my watch on was part of the problem, but hey, aren’t we simul-climbing with approach shoes on (and in my case, my oldest loosest pair). So, I had a bit of a struggle here. It turns out, at some point during this section, Stewart reached the end of his block and put me on belay. Good thing! Then, as this cool feature comes into closer, view, I took over the lead, with the goal of moving past this feature to the left and reaching the “two humps” of the false summit. I never got too close to this feature, but it was neat to look at. Lots of blocky terrain, but there was a couple of cool 5th class sections, including a short, 4 foot or so bomber hand crack. We reached the sandy walking of the humps, without ever noting the pitch that only the Mountaineers pick out and seem to call the Tarzan Jump. No jumping or Tarzan-ing for me. We did note lots of rappel anchors all the way up. Then, its down the first notch, out of which I climbed the “unprotected 5.8 face” (aka 5.2 of happiness), and then down the second notch, where we both came down and moved the belay again. Here's me after the 5.2 face of happiness. Here’s Stewart coming into the second notch (I think!) . And, somewhere in the last bit of leading, but before the OW section. Now, its up to the top and OW of ease! Here is a picture of the OW! It turns out that this is two moves or so, with the first hands being pretty good and once you get your feet in, you are in! Perfect size for my feet with my approach shoes on. Here is Stewart topping out. And great views from the top. Lots of single rope rappels to get down, which makes sense since the route is blocky and double rope rappels would probably be hard to pull. My shoes were a little worse for wear…time to get out more barge cement since 5.10 re-designed (aka ruined) the 5.10 insight and the current version (Gen 3) are not worth buying!! Got to keep the Gen 1s running before I have to switch to my half-way decent Gen 2 pairs. Again, more of the best part of my day… 3.75 hours roped up to the Summit, 7 hours car-to-car. Great day in the mountains and home way before dark with a stop at “Good Food”.

Trip: E Face Lexington Tower - Date: 8/2/2008 Trip Report: I had done some cragging with Stewart in the past, so we teamed up for a Washington Pass weekend. Getting out of bed at 4 am on Saturday to avoid the bad I-5 N traffic on Friday night was not feeling so good on Saturday morning. We toughed it out and headed straight up to the Pass. Along the way, there was intermittent misting and even some rain. Wasn’t looking Bluebird at all. We got to the pass, after both thinking more than once that we were doomed to Sport Climb in Mazama. But, we got out of the car to look at our objective… The East Face of Lexington Tower, which is the second tower to the left of the huge Liberty Bell on the far right. At 8:30 at the pass, while the sky wasn’t clear, we really couldn’t see weather bad enough to stop us. So, we both agreed that “there was no reason not to go”. So, in we went. It’s a fast hike to the base of Liberty Bell, and a party above the roof on Liberty Crack provided a diversion from the hiking exertion. They however were not reachable by monkey call, in spite of me being able to hear every word they said. (Neither were the masses of people that we saw later on N Early winter spire. I guess unlike the California Monkeys, the Northern Monkeys have lost their ability to communicate between traveling groups). We found the base of the route (for us that day) as a small rock pedestal in an island of snow, reached by using our trusty rock-axes. I noticed a hangerless bolt on the low end of the pedestal after Stewart started leading. We only carried one camera that day, so photos are limited. The first pitch was easy going, and the only question was how to do the linking we were trying to do to line up our pitches the way we intended. Stewart ending up leading most of the 5.7 weird face on our “third” pitch. Neither of us really liked this strange face pitch with little pro. I did the easier 5.7 up to a stance. If we did it again, I would surely have to lead the 5.7 as a penalty pitch. Stewart led up the fun dihedral and stopped again at a tree. Now it was time for me to link 4 & 5. Pitch 4 was really fun, with some fun jamming, pretty easy climbing, and secure enough to save most of the pro for the later part of the pitches. In spite of my best intentions, I rope dragged myself just in time for the 5.9. Apparently, the rope got jammed in somehow next to a #3 cam, and then I left a piece with just a bit too short of a sling in the dihedral down below the hand traverse. The hand traverse was wild and fun, with the main difficult being careful protection for no drag (which ended up being pointless as the damage was already done). By the time I got to the 5.9 crack to go up to the alcove, the drag was pretty hopeless. Even though I know the mistakes I made in linking this, and could supposedly correct them in the future, I think it would be more fun to just separate the pitches. Why not, the route is short anyway. So, after much laboring to slowly crawl up the final bit of 5.9, I got to the alcove. Stewart’s OW to chimney to super fun OW was about to begin. The chunka wood is still in the crack and there are two new bolts above that. The chunka wood isn’t really in a place where it provides meaningful protection, but could be used. With the bolts and our overall experience on the climb, we believe that you really only need two pieces of big gear instead of three. We had a new #4 (not really counting that as big gear), a Friend 5 (which is like a BD 4.5) and an old #5, plus a big bro. I think we could have left the Friend 5 at home. Stewart cruised the initial OW (not really an OW at all) finding some handholds to climb it facing left. I had to chimney it with back to the left, then turn around at the second bolt (awkward). Then it was a real move of OW and up into the chimney. I love chimney’s but this was a skinny, frog style chimney, ala top of Generator crack size or a touch wider. Not my favorite size but secure. I prefer a bit wider, but whatever. After this, the best part of the route emerged…the longest coolest pitch of 4 inch-ish and bigger OW I have ever climbed. The solid kitty litter style rock made the OW a lot easier than if it had been smooth granite. While I was definitely grunting all the way up, it was the good exhertion. No desperation, a little knee knocking (they are both bruised now) and lots of good feet! A little narrower than the hard part of Generator Crack, this was perfect for my feet in rock shoes. For bigger people, the feet would almost be crack feeling feet. I was having so much fun following this pitch, and whooped out some yea-haws a couple of times. Stewart and I were just raving and raving about the pitch at the belay. After the OW, the slightly balancey face moves to the ledge and tree that Stewart belayed at (easily linking 6/7 with rope leftover) were scary! I preferred the OW! From the belay it was easy 5th to the first “topout”. Then we did belay again to the top of the feature. I have already forgotten but I believe that we spent 5 hours on route? 9:30 to 2:30? Sounds right. Fun day. We hiked out and got a ride to our car from some guys looking casual, clean and having just cruised the 5.11 on N Early Winter. Some relaxing car camping and a good dinner (Hot dogs, sardines, black beans and more) led to a good night sleep and a not so early 5:30 am wakeup. It actually gets light at Wa Pass earlier than Seattle, so it was pretty easy for me to wakeup at 5:30. We headed off for an easier day, one that we thought might take longer, and would take us to the top of a peak…Cutthroat Peak, via the SW Buttress (also known as the S Buttress). (See the SW Buttress trip report here… http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=824434#Post824434)

Used to call it Friday night losers club in Redmond....(of course it was us in the gym on Friday nights calling ourselves that). Anyeay, just got back to the area and want to do a little climbing in the gym on a Friday night after a long first week back at work. Anyone interested? Strongly prefer Redmond Vertical World. Holly

I am back in Seattle for another work project. I am interested in doing weekend climbing - trad cragging at Index and especially (preferably) Squamish and also alpine rock climbing. This year's tick list includes Rebel Yell on Chianti. I would love to reconnect with old partners from this area and open to climbing with some new people too. I am climbing 5.9 trad off the El Cap aid couch right now and probably 5.10 and harder as soon as I get out there and make sure that all that aid climbing didn't remove all my free climbing skills. Send me a PM to contact me. For more about my climbing, you can check out my photo trip reports from this spring on supertopo.com, posted under hollyclimber Thanks! Holly

Looking to do something fun in the alpine...maybe Prussik or N Ridge of Stewart with no camping? Being lazy here and don't have my email book on this computer, but if we have climbed together before and you see this and want to get out, give me a holla. Only in town for 1-2 rockclimbing weekends... Holly hollyclimber AT aol DOT com

Double ledge with fly, old style that is self-opening, no insertion of poles required. Ledge and fly are in good condition. Bag is a little worn but functionable. I have this in Seattle from now until Sept 7. Back in the Valley around Sept 10. Would ship, but prefer to hand off. $400 obo. Emails are better hollyclimber AT aol DOT com

I have had the unexpected pleasure of getting back my VW Van with its new engine in it earlier than expected. So, I'll be driving it home to Yosemite starting tomorrow, Wednesday, leaving Seattle around 2 pm. If you would like a ride, I would like the company. I'm willing to pick someone up on the way down as well, but this would really need to be pretty near I-5. Schedule is flexible. If there are two drivers we can drive through the night, but there is a mandatory stop in Stockton for dog retrieval. If you are interested, please email me at hollyclimber AT aol DOT com I'll check this tonight, please include a phone number

So, this WHITE 30GB with VIDEO ipod was opened (gently) and held for a few minutes. It was connected to a computer and one album was loaded. It holds 12 movies (I have been told) or 7500 songs. Everything is in new condition, just not returnable because a) it wasn't purchased at Costco and b) it is now missing the outer shrink wrap. All the other packaging, including the inner packaging, is still present, including the plastic sleeve around the headphones, etc. $230 is less than you will find it anywhere, as far as I can tell, especially since you will pay $239 plus tax at Costco, which adds up to $260. I am not in Seattle right now, so I will ship this (insured) for no additional cost. I'd like to sell this in the next few days, otherwise I will list it on the Amazon Marketplace for $220ish, but that will be plus shipping, as they coordinate the shipping prices. So, get a great deal for yourself and help me out of my bind as well. Email me at hollyclimber AT aol DOT com, or go ahead and PM me as I will check my PMs. I will probably post this also on Supertopo if it doesn't go super fast to keep it moving along. So, if you see one there, its the same one. Same hollyclimber Feel free to email me any questions as I want you to be 100% happy with its condition. Holly

Copy of Freedom 6? Any takers?

Found a pair of Teva's, about size 7.5. Sort of a funky brown color that I never really liked. Needs to have the velcro redone. Free. Let me know soon as this stuff is going to Goodwill by Saturday, maybe sooner.

So, I have some old school SMC crampons with extra straps, free to a good home. Also my 4 foot wands, a ton of them. 2 pairs of rock shoes, both about size 37 (tight size 7)-one pair Mammut slippers with Velcro, one pair Miuras. Mammuts are still climbable, Miuras might need a resole, but not bad if they are free. Moving, stuffs gotta go. EMAIL ME. DO NOT PM ME. rodeoswissy AT aol DOT com

bump

I have two purple TCUs in good condition for sale for $25 each. PM me if interested.

Ken- Check your pms

These are the grey Montrail D7s. They are great shoes for when you want to approach and climb in the same shoe. They climb much better than most approach shoes (similar to the old La Sportiva Boulders) but don't hike quite as well as some beefier sticky rubber shoes. They are in excellent shape, basically perfect on the outside, rubber intact fully, no peeling, significant wear or detachment of the rubber. Some small wear on the inside lining of the heel. Overall, in good shape. Worn probably about 10 times. Size 36 more or less fits me and I am between 7 and 7.5 womens. I would say they probably fit a narrow foot better than other foot shapes. PM me if interested. $20. Holly

Pending

What constitutes small cams? PM me and we can discuss. I have a grey TCU that is a good aid piece for sale ($20) and two purples TCUS awesome shape for anything ($25). Sounds like you got everything else you need? I have some BD 5 step aiders for sale for $20 for the pair. Have a Smiley Hammer I am considering replacing with a BD Hammer that we could discuss as well. Holly

I'm all set for this weekend. Have fun out there everyone. Holly

I ONLY HAVE THIS WEEKEND! Next two are booked with non climbing so I am extra motivated to get out this weekend and do some pitches.

These are awesome ice climbing boots and retail for $420. Worn about 4-5 times, they are too big for me. Will sell them for $200 obo. I wear about 7-7.5 street shoe and these boots fit me a bit comfortably loose for glacier climbing (no blisters) but are just not the perfect tight fit for ice climbing on me.

Suddenly I am only able to climb on weekends so I am dying to do something on my wish list. I am flexible on one vs two days and also flexible on whether we do a one day thing as a big blast with no car camping... So, if you want to do one of these climbs PM me please! And it would be nice if you wanted to swap leads or at least lead one pitch as while I can rope gun these it would be more fun to do it together... Orbit AND Outer Space S Face Prussik Colchuck Balanced rock Serpentine Arete Something long in Darrington (Dreamer?) One of the Wine Spires (Chianti or Burgandy, I love OW) N Early Winter - I don't have my book but I think we are talking a nice dihedral (NW something?) 5.10 that could easily be done the same day as West Face (think that it is it) 5.11 Clean Break Liberty Crack Let me know... Holly

PEOPLE! I still need one green small brass offset nut and I am willing to trade a red one (brand new) or MAYBE even a red one and a little tiny bit of cash. Honesty is the best policy...I was just in the Mtn Shop on Tuesday and they are sold out of green. And, as they are now the exclusive supplier, I have no idea when more green will be available. So, if you have one make me a proposal! Also, from my old post, I still have two purple metolius TCUS for sale for $25 each. This is a steal. Don't miss it.

Whew! Knew this was exciting... The Aluminum ones are already pending. Red babies are still waiting for you to buy them.

So, I was pretty excited to realize I have some extra stock of HB offset nuts and thought it warranted its own post... So, basically I have two extra BRASS offsets, both size 2 which is red. These are brand new, never been placed and I bought them during the Offset Frenzy. Now, YES THE RUMORS ARE TRUE, you can buy them in Yosemite (or online at Yosemite gifts.com) so the trauma is over. So, I have extra reds for sale $10 each (this is less than retail) or FOR TRADE for yellow, blue or green (used and bent to hell yellow, green, blue are ok with me as long as they don't have detached wires that will poke my poor little fingers-I like an intact cable so if you have used a nut tool on them forget it). I also have a set of ALUMINUM OFFSETS. On this they are still NOT AVAILABLE ANYWHERE!!! So, hard for me to let them go. By set I mean 7 purple, 8 red, 9, orange and 10 yellow. BRAND NEW. So, I am thinking $60 for the set and if you are interested, let me know. Yes, this is more than retail. But, right now makes sense as if I sell and then get one fixed off my own sets then I am just as hosed as you are right now if you don't have these. PM Me.

#5 cam is sold. Two ballnuts with the zero cam are sold. Still have TCUs and set of BD 5 step aiders. Also have a Metolius rope hook...anyone want to buy that? $5?