hollyclimber

Cavey, Cavey...I think she said that the bugs sucked...which I completely agree with. Got eaten alive on Dragontail last weekend and am still scratching. Michael Layton is some kind of pyscho hoser though...ugly? Exactly what kind of crack have you been smoking?

Well, not sure if I should advertise this, but it turns out that the closure scheduled for July 15 has been extended to Aug 1. So much for cancelling some other plans to "squeeze" in a climb in that area last Sunday...there was no rush after all. Now we have two more weekends... I am not too happy though, because it is already really hot to climb there and the later they start this project, the later it gets finished. Looks like this delay alone will likely extend the project into the spring. They were hoping that they "might" finish it this fall.

Are we talking about the Bridge Creek Bridges and the road to the trail to Colchuck/Stewart Lake (for the Girth Pillar approach?) It is supposed to be closed already... Scheduled to close yesterday, July 15. http://www.climbingwashington.com/news/leavenworth.htm Has there been a change?

I noted above a suggestion to climb Boston. I haven't climbed it, but it doesn't look like great rock! It wasn't in your original agenda anyway, but I am not sure it is a very highly recommended peak...actually I am pretty sure that it is not highly recommended. Sharkfin might be a cool add to your list though. Have fun!

Now, when I read the climber access society link thing it seems to imply that I can climb U Wall because it is not on the Grand Wall at all, and that is all the link says is closed. And it doesn't explicitly say anything about Bellygood... but, I am not going to Squish now until August, so it doesn't matter I guess. Damn birds-making life complicated again. hgb [ 07-12-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ]

Thanks Dru for the info... I think I did read that pm you sent me, but I can't even remember it anymore... I think you gave me the current info, but not the way to find out myself. I didn't want to bug you every day as I monitor the closures!! Anyway, maybe I need a PM lesson, because I don't have it anymore... Or maybe it was because after I hurt my finger in May I was kind of unfocused on climbing in Squish because I didn't know when I would be back in business...but I am back now (after cancelling 4 weekends of Squamish plans for my recovery...argh) hgb [ 07-12-2002, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: hollyclimber ]

Request Granted http://www.craghag.com/scgi-bin/gallery/gallery_detail.cgi?search=search&ID=sk_01

Bostin Basin-short and not hard (even in this years avy debris). Eldorado-long, steep and kicked my ass. I would never compare the two...

well, it is definitely lame when they make these changes and don't bother to make an effort to inform the climbing community. isn't there some new parking rule at Paradise too? I am so pissed about them doing that and not communicating it that I am ignoring it.. A ranger told me that usually what they do if they bump into someone unregistered is register them over the radio right there and then tell you (on the honor system) to pay on your way out. If I want to go in when they are closed, that is what I will do. I think they should provide for self registration at least in one place (which is still plenty inconvenient it you want to climb on the N side, but that is the tradition, so I am cool with sticking to that). I don't really like breaking rules, but if they are going to start getting this ridiculous, I definitely will.

of course one post can piss someone off, but it does take 800 posts in a short period of time to ensure complete annoyance.

PS I AM ANTI BIRD!! Why do these dumb birds pick the best time to climb walls in Squamish to do their nasty chick raising? We should sterilize them all. hgb

Dru~ Where can we get more information on the closures? Is there a website or phone number? I had some plans for that area that I put on hold because I heard about the closures...but if you can go up the Roman Wall to avoid BG and closures, that could be cool. thx ERIK- I hope you don't mean my d-dog and my tommy!

Ha ha...not surprising that Erik lists 4 kinds of shoes he climbs in... He also brings on a short (7 day) roadtrip_ 1 pair beefy hiking boots 1 pair other boots 1 pair teva flipflops 1 pair tevatype sandals 1 pair hippie sandals 1 pair approach shoes in addition to the other shoes listed above. I climb cracks in my miuras. Longer days, bigger Miuras, sport climbing smaller miuras. I think I have 4 pairs.

one more thing... after running pretty short on food, horsecock rocked my world. I almost bought some at the grocery store last night since it still sounded Sooo good...

The weekend rocked, bivied on Fri night with just my ultralight bag because it was nice and warm...a perfect weekend in the N Cascades. I saw those guys bail at the base of the W Ridge of Forbidden...guess they didn't like that snow bridge into the gully. can't wait to go back up there...

will you guys wake me up when sk gets 86'd because I am sick of her meaningless non-climber non-climbing drivel and it makes me so bored with the website that used to entertain me out of my boredom...

Hey, I just got bailed on last night so I now have Thur-Sunday free and no climbing plan. Since I have an recovering finger, I am interested in during something Alpine or aiding... Maybe W Ridge of Forbidden and Sahale in Boston Basin or something out of Colchuck lake...or W Ridge of Prussik... Or, I would be up for almost any glacier climb or aiding in Index or Squamish... I don't really want to go "cragging" for these 4 days...I want to make the most of a long weekend... PM me if you are interested. I prefer to go with someone I already know. I will only be able to check for messages once this afternoon... Erik will give anyone we know my cell phone number if you reach him. HGB

So three double-rope raps got you off Serpentine? I thought most people walked off... Did you check out Backbone at all?

that bolt has been there for a long time, yo. at least a couple of years now. surprised that the mounties were surprised about that, since they climb it so much...

Personally, I don't think it is true that guys who are serious climbers are hard to date. I think it can be a great thing. Better than dating someone who doesn't climb at all, or who doesn't really care. Otherwise, he can't truly understand my goals and share in the excitement of my accomplishments. You have to be able to climb with your man at a level that he enjoys though, or you will only get the "girlfriend weekends". (same goes the other way of course...my old boyfriend got the "boyfriend" weekends and the rest of the time I climbed with others) Otherwise, it can be a cool partnership. I have my own climbing objectives, which I pursue on the weekends that my SO is going out and climbing his stuff. We talk a lot about what routes we want to do, and if we have the same route on our list, often we decide we will do it together. At the same time, we maintain our own climbing partners and have no problem with the other person choosing to do a cool route with someone else, even if we want to do it too someday. Do I miss my boyfriend when he is gone for weeks in Alaska? For sure. But its a great time to do my own roadtrip to Zion. When he is off climbing on the weekdays in the N Cascades and I am home fixing my hot water heater alone, it kind of sucks. If he wants to live in Canmore for three months this winter fine...then he will climb hard on the weekdays and I will hitch rides to Banff on the weekends to improve my iceclimbing. But nothing beats getting him back when he gets home, even dirty and grungy with a tan and a mountain beard is pretty sexy. I think climbing makes our lives more interesting, and the times apart make our time together more intense. Our shared goals give us things to work towards together. When he is gone climbing, I can use the time do things he is totally not interested in and maintain my relationships with the other people in my life. When I am gone climbing...I am climbing!! I think that the fact that some serious climbers aren't fun to date probably has less to do with their climbing and more to do with just THEM. It will be interesting to see how Will's friends survey/project turns out that many of us probably participated in. Anyway, I am keeping my climbing man and I have zero complaints.

I think GU may have 10 more calories? That matters to me because I need every bit of extra energy. I never used GU before I started doing some marathon climbing (ie keep on climbing into the dark and doing walls). I kept finding myself crashing even when eating what I thought was a good amount at belays and also having a GU every couple of hours. Now on a wall I will do a GU every 1/2 hour to hour, and the same amount of food that I used to eat at the belay stations. That means for three days on a wall, you need more than 30 packets of GU! Interesting though is that pound for pound, GU isn't that weight efficient, since it is liquid. But you cannot beat the convenience. And, for me on a long route, eating is a chore that has to be done, so GU fits the bill-fast and easy. You should be able to find someone to sell you GU wholesale, and if you buy the multiflavor packs I think its cheaper. If you like Chocolate, a real deal is available, because I will be giving that flavor away cheap out of my multipacks. We'll be ordering our cases pretty soon for the Valley. Any orders for chocolate?

I didn't read any of the other stuff, but... My orthopaedist is Dr. Charles Peterson Jr, at Seattle Ortho & Fracture Clinic. He is good and understands the needs of the outdoor types. I just got cleared to get back in business today! Damn primary care misdiagnosed my injury and I am tendon detachment free! On to some buddy taping and climbing... hgb

erik erik, help me! lock down the thread! the avatar known as Willans insulted me and I am so hurt!! make him stop! oh yeah, Erik is at Wa Pass already...oh well. PS - Advantages to being ugly... My climbing partners' girlfriends don't get jealous, so I don't have any problems with that I can use the stall in the men's restroom without a second glace, so no lines Never get that second look from a ranger in the Valley, so they don't notice me or which van I am illegally sleeping in...same for Paradise parking lot Never have the problem where people assume a good looking girl can't crank (a few shallow minded people actually think this...good thing it doesn't affect me)

red I love... green and yellow, tied for my second favorite... offset aliens... now those are the actual shiznit. but, if I had to pick just one alien it would definitely be red... Dru is right though, brands with no pro deal are a big bummer. Gotta find the guy out of money in the Valley to pick them up.

Am I missing something, or can we assume SK has never met either Erik or Cavey? After all, anorexic is way off base... The cool thing is, and the truth is (and I will leave Cavey out of this so that no other chicks complain to me as they have before) Erik IS FAT, and that is just one thing that makes it so cool that he cranks. And, a little extra fat at a cold bivy can be nice. Plus, its a good excuse to make Erik carry more shit. Strength to weight ratio could be an issue for sick face climbing, but then that is for sportos...Extra fat layers rock for fun 5.10 offwidth. And, if it really comes down to it, secret weapons can be used on the hard face climbing, as long as all tendons are intact... other ben-e's are...bomber belay when the fat guy is the belay anchor, good opposition for a heavy haul bag (my biggest reason for wishing I weighed more)(but at least that means there is a good reason to let Erik haul on day one for the benefit of the team), something sturdy to hold onto during river crossings, fat boy's extra clothes fit over your regular clothes expanding the available layers at multi-hour belays without ever having to share your own clothes, and more that I better not mention... So, you might not want to question people's fatness unless you are purposefully trying to downplay their climbing abilities and overall appeal as a partner....