jshamster

aw, you know it's all 5.slabfun! screw the ratings...just slap & pray ;-)

kinda stupid putting a blatant ad out there for illegal guiding. wtf? fyi, the enforcers as well as a number of legal guides read this site. oh, and at least use the obvious partners forum. sheeesh. or another troll. whatever.

PM sent.

That moss doesn't go away on it's own. Climbed there 8-9 years ago, and the cobble wall needs a thorough cleaning every year from what i recall. Pretty much gave up on that area and just climbed the steeper bolted stuff you can see from the road. cheers jimbo

the road to the trailhead is fine, but anyone traveling on the mtn. loop hwy in the next few weeks needs to check this website: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/road_conditions_report.shtml there will be full road closures at times, so getting to rd. 49 could be problematic. cheers jimbo

so you wouldn't mind falling with spikes on yer feet & no way to arrest? interesting. snow is getting awfully soft in the middle of the day. perfect for balling on the bottom of the 'pons.

there's a couple of stations to get past the top & the friction pitch.

actually haven't climbed the route on a rope, but from what i recall a 30-40m rope should suffice. i suppose a 50 might be useful if pitching out anything below the steep cracks.

i do not remember any bushwhacking. i was by myself and made into open, alpine terrain in an hour or so. when i say flagged, i mean that's the way to go, not really a trail. been a couple of years, but i remember it being the logical, and easy, way to go to reach Torment. if going to Forbidden, I would, of course, use boston basin trail. i think i just followed the beckey approach beta for Torment basin. cheers jimbo

here ya go: descent: hope that helps.

approach shoes would be fine. snow from top of moraine to start of route. probably steps kicked in? not sure. all snow down to top of asgard w/ big cornice in the usual spot. asgard is 98% snow free. something like 15 yards of snow w/big steps kicked in. the route looked totally dry to me. i'll post a pic of dtail when i get a chance. cheers jimbo

was up there two days ago. rapping n. face was pretty lame/time consuming. i would probably rap/downclimb west ridge next time. it was something like five single rope raps to easy snow traverse back to west ridge notch.

There are a few other that could answer this better than I, but I don't believe there is a wall as big as Garfield around Dtown. Slab Daddy checks in at around 3k and 22 pitches. There is, of course, a TR of this route right next to your post. Poke around. The info for established routes is out there.

IF you find the correct, flagged trail, the Torment Basin approach is very nice. I did it a couple of years ago and found it very pleasant, and much quicker into that part of the area. Too bad it wasn't all that for y'all.

Nice Mikey! Abraxas definitely has free climbing potential.

USGS topos are public domain as well. This is one source: http://libremap.org/. I believe there are others.

nooksack tower & price glacier from a week ago. shot from the top of hannegan peak. cheers jimbo

thanks for the tip Ruds!

Schweet Dan! My helmet cam's been doing that same shit off & on. Any idea what's causing it? Even tried to edit out the blackness in imovie, but didn't work. cheers jimbo

Most importantly, go now & take skis!

nice work Sol! I still just want to get around to aiding that rig some day. i'll be over there Wed. let's have a beer or climb or float or something. cheers jimbo

70m rope is fine. new anchor installed recently to rap DH/LA with one 70. routes: DH/LA, DGS, anything at earwax wall, heavens gate. pretty sure i heard that earwax is a bit dirty these days, but should be climbable, and clean up pretty easily. first pitch of DGS is kinda weird, but second pitch is a full rope length of super fun 5.9. probably need two ropes for this one, but i can't really recall. oh yeah, 1st pitch dana's arch is great as well. think the second got new free climbing bolts as well, but i've only aided it at A2+ or so on old ass mank fixed gear. upper wall is awesome! and cool temps are nice too. cheers jimbo

no personal experience, but this linky is useful: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/road_conditions_report.shtml the gold mine up there reopened last year, so i have heard that the road is good shape now, but sounds like there is snow up high still.

I did not have a camera that day. Dave Y. took numerous pics, and maybe he will write up a TR, or just post pics. Pitch 19 is great & easy; 21 & 22 are good pitches, totally out of character with the rest of the route, and still quite dirty. I had a much easier time on the upper pitches this time around as we split the climb into two days. As far as 20 goes, I have tried pretty hard to free it on both lead and t.r. I felt like I came a lot closer last year. Basically, as you probably know, that groove is super water polished. Slick as snot. Still need to find a better technique than just stabbing the toe and standing up. We both worked on a couple of alternatives, but really did not come close to styling that 3 or 4 feet of groove. Topo seems pretty mislabeled, as the A0 is in the lower part of the groove, and not exiting the groove. The rest of the pitch is very straightforward, easy even. cheers jimbo