freeclimb9

I do. It ranks low down on my list of worldwide FA material. But it's there. Does that answer your question?

Omelette: as in "for choppin my route, I oughtta bust a cap in your ass, but because of my probation requirements, omelette it slide."

I've gotten word that BD has stopped making the Black Prophet.

Screw the bouldering, dude. Pacifico is brewed in Mazatlan and the fishing there is GREAT! And you've got your lady with you? Do I need to draw pictures? I think you'll have plenty to do.

sisu suomi, what you've got is known as a "skullet". Be proud.

The "Earl" was my good friend Earl Redfern who got the chop this past year in a plane wreck. I wonder what he was thinking trying to fly tight canyons on such a hot day when the air density --and plane's response-- is so low. He was a crazy mofo, and a lot of fun to be around. I mis him much. I can't remember the Aussie girl's names (not Sheila, or Matilda, though). Earl actually moved down to Australia for a year to be with one of them. Didn't work out.

In '87 I was loaned a prototype parasail for an expedition. After flying it a few times up in the Arctic, I got cocky. Back in the States, my climbing partner and I went to the top of Lovers Leap near Lake Tahoe for a first descent. I went first. I popped the sail up fine, and ran off the edge of the 700' cliff. The sail stalled in the middle (the only failure from which it couldn't recover), collapsed, and I dropped like a rock. I slammed into the cliff about 100' lower --a glancing blow-- and came to a stop. My buddy Earl came running to the edge yelling my name in terror. I had the presence of mind to say "I'm just hanging out down here." Earl told me to hang tight while he scrambled down some fourth class ledges and got within 15' of me over to my right. I had unclipped from the sail, so I traversed towards him over pretty hard terrain (crimper edges like on 5.10, but the adrenalin could have been clouding my perception) with 600' of air pulling at my back. We retreived the sail from above and found that a hand sized flake had stopped me; seven shrouds got wrapped over it; six had broken. I had been hanging by one parachute cord. We split a bottle of red wine on the way to the emergency room to get my chin sewed back together (13 stiches. 7 on the inside, 6 to close the skin) with the Australian girls we had been banging. One of the bummers was being so sore that night that her touch was painful. I flew again in a couple days, and made a bunch more first descents. But not at Lovers Leap. I gave up the "sport" after a couple years when it became painfully obvious that it was a question of time before I got really hurt. (A bunch of friends and acquaintances got seriously injured parasailing). Then there's all the climbing stories. Sometimes it's best to leave the Tequila at home.

I've seen Lou every time I've been to the Outdoor Retailer's convention, and the guy is seriously BIG. I'm a large person --at least according to the clothes I wear-- and tower over most of the famous climbers at the convention (JC Lafaille, Mark Wilford, Tori Allen, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Liv Sansoz, John Bachar, Christian Griffith, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, and on and on). Only Dean Potter and Lou Whittaker do I have to look up to, and Lou outweighs Dean by fifty pounds (it's a no-brainer to pick who'd win in a barfight between 'em).

I use the Atlas gloves for most of my ice-climbing. I go through about one pair per season, and that's fine for $15. Typically, a fast rappel does 'em in. I first used the gloves working a construction project near Cordova, and was very impressed with them from then on (we bought them by the case --much cheaper that way, too-- and worked building Gabians under the water's surface of a glacier-melt creek). As usual, for climbing I use breathable gloves for the approach and deproach, but go Vinylove for the ice. Running water is no problem. And even if they get soaked by a fill-up, they stay pretty warm. On multi-day trips, I use another type of glove with gaunlets and removable liner so that I can dry them in my bag overnight. The Atlas gloves need forced air to dry thoroughly (I made a dryer from a shoe box, paper-towell tubes, and duct tape; The whole affair sits on top of a heating vent). And I'm serious.

for temps between 10 and 35 farenheit, I like Atlas's freezer glovers --it's the Vinylove, baby-- http://www.seamar.com/atlas/460.html they're cheap, last well, are easy to remove (unlike neoprene gloves), and are bright orange.

I'm not sure who invented it, but "spray" was hyped and popularized by Fabio. "I can't believe it's not butter, spray."

The MEC stuff (Ferrata is the name, I believe) has been good to me. I use it as a layer over long underwear (and under 3-ply Gore-tex when it's wet). MEC is also very affordable.

You're asking me to give up the secret stash? These college babes are all mine as are the sweet FAs, winter ice, deep pow-pow, and summer alpine routes.

Solar Slab is probably the warmest climb if the air temps drop. Dark Shadows, Lotta Balls, and Frogland are awesome in the afternoon shade if it's really hot (over 90).

sidenote: what's interesting about Charlie Porter's route on the North tower of Mt. Asgaard is that it was originally rated 5.8, A2, WI3. It's an obvious and beautiful line that follows a handcrack for a couple thousand feet. That the route was done solo by Charlie Porter is inspiring (especially given the epic he had on his attempt with frostbite: he crawled 35 miles out to the fijord).

Carolyn, if REI is cutting out their rental program they'll dump the rental boots. Buy the style you rented (and liked) for less $$.

The Workout from Hell: http://www.camp4.com/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=71 especially the flat-back and standing extensions for the tricep (they get you used to the taste of lactic acid). Don't forget the legs which get you to the climb.

Those who live by the sword die by the sword.

Two sets of aiders with a four and a five step in each is a great setup, IMO.

struth, "great ice" is a state of mind.

I hope the ice will be good, but the dry summer and previous winter won't be good for iceclimbs relying on seeps as their water source. Additionally, the NOAA predicts a return of El Nino (albeit, a mild one) late this year, or early 2002, which means little prcipitation for the Northwest. I think it will be an anemic year for ice, unfortunately.

to lizard brain: I reiterate that bolts are a traditional method of protecting climbs. Here in North America, the first "bolts" (crude iron spikes) were placed in 1875 when George Anderson climbed Yosemite's Half Dome for the first time. The first expansion bolts were placed during the first ascent of Shiprock in 1939 by Dave Brower (the Sierra Club's first executive director). And comparing clear cutting to bolting is an emotional response that's, in reality, absurd. John Dill, the head "climbing" ranger in Yosemite stated several years ago that the total volume of rock removed for placement of expansion bolts in the Valley --in his estimation-- was about equal to the volume of a shoebox. (BTW, clear cutting, according to my forester buddies, in some situations is the most environmentally sensitive way to harvest trees. But that's off the subject).

As you noted, gear is your heaviest set of items. Shorten your rope, or eliminate it, if the targeted route allows it. Whittle down the rack. You might also try a strategy where you set up a base-camp of sorts and go much lighter from there.

Bolts are a traditional method of protecting climbs whether you like it, or not.

The Victorian Inn in Ouray has differing rates depending on the time of year as do other hotels (actually it depends on the ski-season period). These rates may affect your planned dates as may the fact that the ice is typically thicker and more stable in January and February. check out http://www.ouraylodging.com/vicrates.htm It's often less expensive to get a cabin if you're going with a group rather than individual rooms in the hotel. If you're going in early season when avalanche danger is usually low, there are long moderate (WI4) routes down the road near Silverton that are very worthwhile. I've got more info at www.iceclimb.com, but the perl scripts aren't currently working (problems with the ISP that I'm in the midst of resolving). Check that site in a week, or so. best regards, Will McCarthy