freeclimb9

I've seen Lou every time I've been to the Outdoor Retailer's convention, and the guy is seriously BIG. I'm a large person --at least according to the clothes I wear-- and tower over most of the famous climbers at the convention (JC Lafaille, Mark Wilford, Tori Allen, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Liv Sansoz, John Bachar, Christian Griffith, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, and on and on). Only Dean Potter and Lou Whittaker do I have to look up to, and Lou outweighs Dean by fifty pounds (it's a no-brainer to pick who'd win in a barfight between 'em).

I use the Atlas gloves for most of my ice-climbing. I go through about one pair per season, and that's fine for $15. Typically, a fast rappel does 'em in. I first used the gloves working a construction project near Cordova, and was very impressed with them from then on (we bought them by the case --much cheaper that way, too-- and worked building Gabians under the water's surface of a glacier-melt creek). As usual, for climbing I use breathable gloves for the approach and deproach, but go Vinylove for the ice. Running water is no problem. And even if they get soaked by a fill-up, they stay pretty warm. On multi-day trips, I use another type of glove with gaunlets and removable liner so that I can dry them in my bag overnight. The Atlas gloves need forced air to dry thoroughly (I made a dryer from a shoe box, paper-towell tubes, and duct tape; The whole affair sits on top of a heating vent). And I'm serious.

for temps between 10 and 35 farenheit, I like Atlas's freezer glovers --it's the Vinylove, baby-- http://www.seamar.com/atlas/460.html they're cheap, last well, are easy to remove (unlike neoprene gloves), and are bright orange.

I'm not sure who invented it, but "spray" was hyped and popularized by Fabio. "I can't believe it's not butter, spray."

The MEC stuff (Ferrata is the name, I believe) has been good to me. I use it as a layer over long underwear (and under 3-ply Gore-tex when it's wet). MEC is also very affordable.

You're asking me to give up the secret stash? These college babes are all mine as are the sweet FAs, winter ice, deep pow-pow, and summer alpine routes.

Solar Slab is probably the warmest climb if the air temps drop. Dark Shadows, Lotta Balls, and Frogland are awesome in the afternoon shade if it's really hot (over 90).

sidenote: what's interesting about Charlie Porter's route on the North tower of Mt. Asgaard is that it was originally rated 5.8, A2, WI3. It's an obvious and beautiful line that follows a handcrack for a couple thousand feet. That the route was done solo by Charlie Porter is inspiring (especially given the epic he had on his attempt with frostbite: he crawled 35 miles out to the fijord).

Carolyn, if REI is cutting out their rental program they'll dump the rental boots. Buy the style you rented (and liked) for less $$.

The Workout from Hell: http://www.camp4.com/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=71 especially the flat-back and standing extensions for the tricep (they get you used to the taste of lactic acid). Don't forget the legs which get you to the climb.

Those who live by the sword die by the sword.

Two sets of aiders with a four and a five step in each is a great setup, IMO.

struth, "great ice" is a state of mind.

I hope the ice will be good, but the dry summer and previous winter won't be good for iceclimbs relying on seeps as their water source. Additionally, the NOAA predicts a return of El Nino (albeit, a mild one) late this year, or early 2002, which means little prcipitation for the Northwest. I think it will be an anemic year for ice, unfortunately.

to lizard brain: I reiterate that bolts are a traditional method of protecting climbs. Here in North America, the first "bolts" (crude iron spikes) were placed in 1875 when George Anderson climbed Yosemite's Half Dome for the first time. The first expansion bolts were placed during the first ascent of Shiprock in 1939 by Dave Brower (the Sierra Club's first executive director). And comparing clear cutting to bolting is an emotional response that's, in reality, absurd. John Dill, the head "climbing" ranger in Yosemite stated several years ago that the total volume of rock removed for placement of expansion bolts in the Valley --in his estimation-- was about equal to the volume of a shoebox. (BTW, clear cutting, according to my forester buddies, in some situations is the most environmentally sensitive way to harvest trees. But that's off the subject).

As you noted, gear is your heaviest set of items. Shorten your rope, or eliminate it, if the targeted route allows it. Whittle down the rack. You might also try a strategy where you set up a base-camp of sorts and go much lighter from there.

Bolts are a traditional method of protecting climbs whether you like it, or not.

The Victorian Inn in Ouray has differing rates depending on the time of year as do other hotels (actually it depends on the ski-season period). These rates may affect your planned dates as may the fact that the ice is typically thicker and more stable in January and February. check out http://www.ouraylodging.com/vicrates.htm It's often less expensive to get a cabin if you're going with a group rather than individual rooms in the hotel. If you're going in early season when avalanche danger is usually low, there are long moderate (WI4) routes down the road near Silverton that are very worthwhile. I've got more info at www.iceclimb.com, but the perl scripts aren't currently working (problems with the ISP that I'm in the midst of resolving). Check that site in a week, or so. best regards, Will McCarthy

In my limited experience with The Man, it pays to be persistent at the next step. Your fine will be overseen by a prosecutor. Find out which court will handle your case and contact them. Find out the name of the prosecutor and contact that person directly by phone (if possible). Be sincere in expressing your ignorance of the laws. Probe whether the Ranger followed all procedures correctly. Ask to get the fine excused. If the Ranger does this often, they'll know the score better than you, and they may be very sympathetic. Good luck.

Crack Addict: your post suggested that flying an American flag on a vehicle is redneck behaviour. You're wrong. Erwin: you suggested that a flag left unattended on a summit is garbage. You're wrong as well. Whoever planted the flags on summits should also take on the responsibility of lowering them and taking them away. It's disrespectful to leave the flag unattended indefinitely, and those who left them behind probably didn't understand the portent of their action. But it is NOT redneck behaviour to fly the flag nor is a flag left on a summit "garbage". If you find a summit flag, I suggest lowering it, folding it, and packing it out. That's all.

Experimental results have shown that an isobutane stove such as the Giga, or Primus, heats water more quickly and with less fuel-weight consumption than an alcohol stove. However, there may be room in your arsenal for an alcohol stove. The alcohol stove is small in volume, and you can adjust the amount of fuel you carry to your intended needs. I made a stove from smaller aluminum grape juice cans that weighs 1/4 ounce and fits inside an aluminum cup with room for a small wire cup holder and a little bottle of alcohol (the cup protects the fragile stove) plus tea bags, sugar, soup, etc.. I haven't tested my idea, but I THINK it would be great to have in my pack for a fast and light alpine excursion --the kind of trip where a couple cups of hot water makes a big difference (a minimal bivy, a morning after a night of climbing, etc.). At the very least, it will no doubt impress my ice-climbing partners this winter when I share a hot drink.

another way to make an appointment is by calling 1-800-GIVE-LIFE

it's an entirely appropriate time to fly a US flag. God bless America.

The NOAA predicts a mild to moderate El Nino will kick in late 2001 to early 2002. The PNW is typically drier than normal with an El Nino. Yea, that would be rain on your parade.

"Remember, if you smoke after sex you're doing it too fast." Woody Allen