freeclimb9

quote: Originally posted by Wopper: Freeclimb9 - Do you only girth hitch pro when running out of/attempting to conserve biners or do it all the time and not take any biners with you? From your argument above, you state that you only do it under certain circumstances but you also seem to be trying to make the case that it is acceptable to do it all the time. If it is so safe and you do have a doctorate of proctology why is not taught this way in every article/book/course/hands on teaching I (and apparently the majority of this board) has encountered? Just curious, mon. I girth hitch the nylon sewn slings on camming units and tri-cams --and sometimes even on wired nuts [Hey, it's even a useful knot for tying off shallow-placement Bugaboos, angles, Lost Arrows, and ice screws]-- when trying to conserve biners when far away from the belay (i.e. plenty of rope stretch). I try to use carabiners on the first few pieces placed after leaving the belay. And I place those first pieces pretty close to the belay to limit the fall factor. But I do often link sewn spectra runners together with girth hitches irregardless of how much rope is between me and the belay. I have used girth-hitched runners in favor over carbiners when a 'biner would be levers over a bulge (the fixed-pin on Extreme Unction in Ferguson canyon comes to mind as well a a bolt on Wily Javelina in the Coyote Mtns). I like to climb with a dozen, or so, 24" sewn spectra runners when on long routes. I've been lucky enough to climb with some pretty accomplished climbers, and have learned from them the use of these tactics. The justification of their use is that it's still strong. BTW, your proctology remark isn't endearing. In person, my quick Irish temper would have you bleeding. [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: freeclimb9 ]

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Slinging wire is obviously stupid. Hyperbole.Try critical thinking for a change, dude: Girth hitching reduces runner strength by up to 30%. Okay, so you started with 25kN for sewn Spectra, and now you're down to 17kN with a girth hitch. The strongest Stopper swage is 10kN. Guess what might be the first thing to fail when pulling on a girth-hitched Stopper? If this doesn't convince you, then consider that manufacturers have sewn slings to wires without in-use falures occurring (Smiley's for example). I've so much bullshit in this thread, I'm fucking amazed. It seems clear that many people climb with little idea of the limitations of their gear despite all the available information (even information that they quote). If you folks want to worry about stupid stuff, read the AAC's "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" so you'll realize what actually results in accidents. Gear failure is extremely rare, but can occur when the fall factor (Fall Factor = Length of Fall / Length of Rope [or runner]) is high. I'll continue to girth hitch gear when I'm running low on carabiners high on a pitch (or linking slings together to form a longer one), and I won't be worrying about a sling getting cut or melting. rant's over . . .

You know those boys up in Wyoming found a new use for sheep? wool.

Holy shit, is the sky falling again? No. So quit freaking out, folks. While the strength of webbing (and rope, for that matter) is ALWAYS reduced by knots, you'll still have a bunch in a girth-hitched sling. According to BD's data (http://www.putzl.com/~klew/knot5.htm) the girth-hitched slings break at about 30% lower rating than the full strength sling. Since full strength is over 6,000 lbs (that's about 2.5 Pro Stock cars with the driver inside), they still will hold 4,000 lbs. That's a lot. That's more than most stoppers can hold. Having said that, it's a good idea to use 'biners to maximize strength where you need it most: close to the belay where fall factor can be the highest. As a leader gets further from the belay while periodically placing gear, the force generated by a fall will be increasingly dissipated by rope stretch and friction, so using girth-hitched slings becomes less of a liability --and falling won't generate over 4,000lbs onto the gear (Un-fucking-likely anyways). (If you want to freak-out about stupid stuff, recall that a figure-8 know reduces rope strength by about 20%. Oh my Gawd! We're gonna fucking die!).

There's a Lizard Head peak to the north of Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River mountains. I haven't met anyone who's climbed it since you'd have to walk past so many classic climbs to get to it. The Lizard's Head peak in the San Juans is dangerously loose.

I'll add an unsolicited comment that pyramid tents have to be staked out; IMHO, that limits their adaptability. Also, in snow they tend to be wet, so you'll then carry a bivy bag --at that point, weight savings become moot. I've got a Megamid thinking it would be the shit. It isn't what I'd hoped it would be. The ultralight backpacking crowd are coming out with some freely shared designs that might be of interest.

quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: Yer missin' out, dude. I feel like I'm revealing a deep secret by saying that you should join the 5:00 to 7:00 BEFORE work crowd - or lack thereof. Best time to go. [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: lizard brain ] A better time is 9:00AM to 11:00AM when you work out with the dissatisfied housewife set. They usually stick to the conveyor-belt machines and stationary cycles, so the weights are free.

Crack of Doom in The City of rocks (who cares if it's not 10b). First pitch of Cripple Creek on Mt. Lemmon (try it on a Summer afternoon when it's slicker than slut on Saturday night). The other pitches are icing on the cake. The Split Pillar on the Grand Wall. Supercrack in Indian Creek. T-crack above Santa Barbara. And so many others.

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: I doubt it will be cold or rainy. I was there in January '95 and we climbed in T shirts. It rained for about an hour one evening and the event made the front page of the newspaper. Joshua Tree in March is notorious for having clear blue skies with winds blowing gravel across the campgrounds. These winds are common across the region and into Mexico. Recent weather in So. Cal. has featured 40 knot winds along the coast.

How about this one?

There's a t-shirt appropriate for everyone:

There's a t-shirt appropriate for everyone: [ 03-14-2002: Message edited by: freeclimb9 ]

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: UIAA says that they've done confirmed tests that show the marker method (even the marker made for that purpose) weakens the rope by as much as %50. I call bullshit on that claim. A rope's primary tensile strength comes from the core, not the sheath. So even if the sheath were totally compromised, the rope wouldn't be weakened by 50%. What in a marking pen would react with nylon? Nothing (unless it contains xylenes, and I know of no marking pen that does). It's only adsorbed. That's why the mark rubs off eventually.

quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: Weight is a factor, price is not, features are good, useless gadgets are just that, thinking 4500ci 65-75L. Since price is not a factor, check out the offerings from Arcteryx (sp?). They really do have nice stuff --it costs less in Canada, I believe. I've got a Chaos pack, and it's okay. But I was on a budget when I bought it, and would look elsewhere if I had the cash.

The AAC has rescue insurance as part of its membership fee as does the BMC. Check out their websites for more info: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/members/insurance.shtml http://www.thebmc.co.uk/services/insure/iinfo.htm

For dark ropes, white fabric paint works well, but will wear out. The fabric paint can be found in hobby shops, and is used to decorate t-shirts and the like. For light colored ropes, use a Sharpie ink pen; it, too, will wear out. Replace when needed is about the best you can do.

I've used a bowline to secure a rope around large immovable objects (like trees and rock horns) for belay anchors. It's also a handy knot --in its modified version with the double "holes"-- for sport-climbing since it is easier to untie oafter enduring a fall. I've also used the bowline on a bight for tieing into the rope when top-roping, or going superlight on mountaineering-type routes. It is a useful know to know.

I stumbled onto the www.mountainweather.com website which has a page of western US satellite image links --some of the better ones I've seen. The "US/PAC IR" offers a great perspective on storms lined up over the north Pacific. Maybe they'll be useful to you all. http://www.mountainweather.com/Satellite%20Radar.htm

Donner Summit is probably within 3 hours.

quote: Originally posted by mr. happy: littering is for sh!t-for-brains and morons. Unless you're setting a push record on McKinley, then jettisoning heavy gear like empty GU packs is okay. Or not.

Thanks for all the comments. Now for the great adventure of shopping!

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I tried out some Kayland Spiders, and they seem to be the bomb. From where are the Kayland Spiders sold? Their website, www.kayland.com, isn't helpful in finding dealers.

I'm contemplating a do-everything shoe for summer alpine scramble climbs. If I could use a shoe for walking and climbing, that would keep my pack small and light. La Sportiva fits my feet well; does the Mega Dru work okay as a walking shoe? Do the 5.10 shoes like the Guide Almighty, Calfornian, or Mountian Master climb well? How about offerings from other manufacturers like Scarpa, Boreal, Garmont, others?

quote: Originally posted by Tad: Freeclimb9: What's Ullfrotte made of besides wool? Is it at all scratchy when moist? Stretch factor could be a bit of a problem especially when you pay so much for this stuff! . . . SO, has anyone tried LIFA? The Ullfrotte top I have is 60-25-15% wool-polyester-polyamide. The inside has a texture like terry cloth and doesn't itch at all when wet, moist, or dry. I also have some old Ullfrotte bottoms that are 52-33-15% wool-fibro-nylon, and they itch a little. The torso length stretched a little upon wearing, but retracted when I washed it. LIFA is Helly-Hansen's first layer, and they make good stuff. But it's still polypro which needs a bactericide to kill the funk. It is possible to revive polypro funky clotes with Mirazyme brand enzymes. BTW, the SmartWool is supposed to be great, but I went with Ullfrotte because of lower price.

quote: Originally posted by dan e: I am glad you all seem to like it more than me, at least you are getting your moneys worth! I've got the MEC Ferrata jacket and tights, and they make a great first, or second layer, IMHO. But they don't make a great outer layer if much precipitation is falling, or if wallowing through and over frozen water (again, IMO). I think the fabric is well suited as an outer layer for summer alpine climbing and winter aerobic sports (if it's not snowing, or raining). Though, I carry a cagoule if there's a threat of summer rain. my 2 cents