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Jens

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Everything posted by Jens

  1. Nooooo. burn them!
  2. Thanks trog. Does anyone know, does the ones REI has in the Seattle store the Gore tex ones?
  3. I'll give you some beta on trolling. It's gotta be the questions that are almost the ones you really want to ask!
  4. Thanks Dale for the updates. Long time no see. Enjoy your month.
  5. I'm game to help with clean up and stewardship. Let's roll with this. ------ Vantage is no longer a pile with a bunch of new sport routes in the last few years. There are even a couple of 13's. It's the dose of sun we all need in the early spring.
  6. Anyone know if they are any good? Anyone know anything about them at all? How precise? how warm? how do they walk? etc. It would be cool to see Asolo make a huge revival.
  7. I've worn the jacket you describe. It is very good. Keep it for sure. People like to make fun of north face but in my humble opinion they make better stuff than many other big name companies: (Mountain Hardware, Sierra Designs, Marmot)
  8. Yesterday my partner and I decided to try a plan that had been hatched. It was stormy everywhere in the cascades so we decided it would be a good day for the plan. We wanted to do every single route at all four Vertical World climbing gyms (Redmond, Everett, Seattle, Bremerton) that was 5.10a and under (no 10b's or harder) in a day. We harnessed up in the parking lot in the dark of the Redmond gym at 5:55am and promtly started in the lead room at 6am. After ticking all 85 routes later we were off to Everett. Everett was nice and quiet. After ticking all 45 routes at Everett, we were off to Seattle. We were runing way behind schedule and realized the Ferry ride to the Bremerton gym wasn't in the cards. We showed up at the Seattle gym at around 7:15pm and started to tick away. It was nice to be back on our home turf. We were only able to get 28 routes in at Seattle before they closed at 10pm. 16 hours of gym climbing minus a few hours for driving and eating. Our pace slowed as we were starting to zone. Route total: We both did 155 pitches. It was our "Nose in a Day". Gear notes:Red Bull, GU, tea, sandwiches, beanie baby stuffed moose attached to my partner's harness. Other Notes: *Lowering that much blistered our hands! *The "base camp lounge" area with sofas at Everett is cool. *Seattle and Everett's ratings were the same. Redmond's ratings seemed slightly stiffer than most other gyms I've ever climbed at. Setters we liked were EO, rick, Devo, and a whole host of Seattle setters. Thanks for the good routes guys and girls! *We used a whole bunch of rope tricks and swings to get more mileage in. *Stuffed animals make good luck charms! -Jens Klubberud
  9. I didn't slog to the base of it but it looks like it is in give away shape this year.
  10. Nice pictures and TR, jmace. Four of us Seattlites were up in Lillooet over the weekend. It was fun but it looks like the season is just about done. (+11C on Saturday). Saturday we climbed all pitches of rambles central. Shreddie was coming apart. Afterwards we had a molson at the Reynolds. Sunday we climbed at marble. I led Deeping Wall and we also top roped a lot of other stuff on the lower tier. A good time was had by all. Time for some spring skiing and rock climbing!
  11. Blake I don't know anything useful about red rocks, but before you travel all the way down their to climb a red rocks for 10 days in a row, you may want to take a peak at my thread about "red rocks" questions I posted a few weeks ago I think it was in the "rock climbing forum"? You may change your venue.
  12. Newbie ice climbers who learn to ice climb leashless. trolllllllllll!
  13. Don, Seattle could use a few hundred more copies of your guide. People are asking me about Lillooet at lot at the gym.
  14. I've heard that the goose is cool. I might be able to get up their.
  15. Snow ledge
  16. He had to because of the way a little snow ledge had formed and with a pitch like this that was 90% rock I would have done the same thing. ________________________ G-spotter how much longer do you think Lillooet will hold up if we get no more cold snaps? Let me buy you a cold one at the Reynolds.
  17. I predict that in future years (if it stays cold) that this line will become the cult classic for cascade hardmen.
  18. He did awesome and far better than I would have done. I don't think I would have been able to stop that fall with all that shit coming down- Brand new 9.5mm skinny line with a teflon coating.
  19. Jens

    Huge whipper!!!!

    My whipper on the ice with Tvashketarkena today was bigger and upside down. See ice forum.
  20. Pulling out after a roof today on mixed pitch I speared a chunk of ice. I heel hooked above my head and then Bang! about 250 pounds of ice slid off the rock (the part my tool was in) The ice went straight for Tvashtarkena coming down on top of him as I sailed through the air completely upside down seeing the trees behind me. Tvash someohow managed to arrest me and survive unhurt aided by a tangle that jammed in the belay device after the barrage ended. I fell the full length of the pitch from the 6th bolt to the first and was face to face with Tvash when it ended. I didn't touch a thing. He gets hardman points for surviving unhurt and not letting me hit the ground! With all the monkey business the last 3 months, this has been my luckiest/unluckiest? ice season of my ice career. We decided it was time to quit for the day and drink beer!
  21. Tuesday is the better day if you are doing a Friday start for your psycho weekend route.
  22. What you speak of is good, but that is quite a strrettttch of a statement.
  23. Gary is probably one of the best climbing photographers in the PNW!
  24. Jens

    Pet Peeves

    Rumr's 7 year old has even climbed Full Japanese Gardens clean! ----- I like this thread. ---- I'm guilty of all of the above at the gym. ----- Rumr, when are we gonna wrestle?
  25. Great post kurt! Virtually nothing is plowed in the winter in WA. As a result, most of the best climbers in the cascades just go to Banff, Lillooet, or lift ski. I'd love to see a few more forest roads plowed. As for ice farming though, I've talked to a couple of "farmers" and as mild as our winters are it would have to be like at 7,000+ to be really good. Leavenworth is having an OK ice winter but it will proabably be shit for next 10 years like it usually is. What is everyones dream three roads to be plowed?
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