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Jens

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Everything posted by Jens

  1. shhhhhhhhhh!
  2. Looking to head down to Smith Rocks for 2-3 days of sport climbing midweek this coming week- prefer sometime in the ballpark of Wednesday- Friday (2/17-2/19) but am flexible and could do Tues instead. My wife and all my climbing partners have to work. Anyone game to head down from Washington? It is supposed to be mid 50's and sunny. I'd throw in a Trout Creek trad day for the last day on the way home if you like. I'll drive.
  3. The Kendall Peak waterfall ice-snoqualmie pass Tooth East Face Rattlesnake Rock and Drip Wall Sport climbs- Leavenworth. World Wall 2 sport climbs Little Si. Johannesberg Mt.and Nooksack Tower. Marblemount Sport climbs. Nirvana Ridge Pesahastin. High elevation waterfall Ice climbs in Mt. Rainier Nt. Park. Shriek of the Sheep-Lillooet Ice.
  4. How about some historical data?-Anyone care to list some the of largest Avys that have occured within ski area boundaries in WA, OR, or BC? Does anyone have any good pics?
  5. These boots could be the best ice boots available on the market right now (non fruit boot) and mine are way warm. The number sizing is way off so try them on first. Speaking of Asolo, the old green runouts resoled with different rubber were the best low angle friction slab shoe that has ever been created. I heard that poor business decisions allowed sportiva to leapfrog ahead of them in market share many years ago?
  6. Jens

    North Face

    :rocken: :rocken:
  7. Something to try: When I was in my mid teens, I had my dad drop my younger brother and I off at Paradise. The strategy we used was this: we got out of bed from the muir hut when the bulk of other climbers got up. We made sure to keep two parties ahead of us and two parties behind us the whole climb and descent back to muir. Rainier is an awesome mountain that I've gone up many times since. It is the one mountain that weather is the major deal breaker (more than anything within 1,000 miles including Waddington or the Coast Range) I can suffer my way up most peaks in the cascades in storms but Rainier can be a trip to a pine box in a freak serious fall or winter storm. Another strange Rainier note. Some of my seasoned hardman climbing partners love the mountain so much that the bulk of their alpine trips are on Rainier. Oddly, Some of my other cascade partners have acutally never climbed it and have lived in Washington for years and have climbed nearly every other icefall and serious peak in the range yet have really no desire to climb Rainier.
  8. How does one "close" a trail? -Parking can be roadside according to County Law. If the trail to 32 is "closed", does that mean I can start using the shorter route again that we used when the Little Si sport climbs first went in around 90' or 91'?
  9. Does anyone have any experience with shock loading the spine by taking short groundfalls or jumping off boulder problems with no pad? Can the spine compress, create stress fractures,or blow discs from realatively short jumps? Is it possible to just bruise the spine and be sore for a month and then get better?
  10. Size 11 5.10 lace-ups. They are pretty beat and have been at the wall awhile. They were under an overhang and have been chewed on by some snaffles. Describe the color and model.
  11. Jens

    5.16 !!!!!

    Man I love this website!
  12. I've climbed more ice pitches than Raleigh (One of my main ice partners has climbed with him for years) and I used to write crappy gear reviews for climbing magazine myself. I'm done with this silly thread.
  13. If the list is referred to as "Alpine" Again, granite or granitic rock is like only 2% of our range (which is most of or nearly all of the banter on what this thread is about). Granitic- Easy to get good gear that you can fall on, easy to bolt on lead, easy to bail from anywhere, easy to launch into the unknown as the rock is usually solid, a pretty much endless supply of dependable protection cracks, and lots of fun!
  14. I've owned 3 different models of sportiva ice boots and Ice climbed in 5 different models and my current Asolo Cholatses are narrower than any of the five pair. Give them a try.
  15. Hey I'm a CWU alum for undergrad also. Hangboard pullups....beer.....Hangboard pullups....beer....repeat
  16. That looks really fun! Especially Pitch 1.
  17. A frenchman sold me a pair at his shop. He said that the Petzl engineers invented them because traditional heel bails that we all use kept breaking when hanging upside down. I'm sure this work was done before the advent of fruit boots. He said that if the sidelocks were strong enough to hang upside down on, they were strong enough for all of us. I'm on my second season on sidelocks and I like em'. Speaking of, how many good stories could we share of blowing off a crampon while soloing? Anyone care to chime in?
  18. This list should be at least half on non-granitic walls as grantic rock only makes up like 2% of the range. So many folks only go to Washington Pass or the Stuart Range which are geographically tiny areas. For the future, some of the biggest badest steepest unclimbed faces in the range far to the north aren't granite or granitic.
  19. Asolos are narrower than Sportivas. The Cholatse is a nice ice boot that is warm and super light.
  20. I Ice climbed up the Alpental valley yesterday. Stuff was setting up again fast. It was surprisingly cold. I went night skiing after and froze in my soft shell stuff.
  21. Climbed near Alpental today. It was really cold and stuff was coming back in fast.
  22. The board lasted shoes Todd wore have huge blunted toes. Try to fart around in a pair of Fires. Asolos, or the like on city park's tips jams compared to our modern day pointed slippers. It is crazy the difference- even if you size the old rock boots tight. I've done a bunch of dogging on TR trying the route when I was about 30 pounds lighter and the feet are insane on the route. ------------- As for Rudy's kid, he is an amazing climber and is the future!
  23. I've seen a climbing partner bend a Grivel ice tool pick while leading an icefall. The pick really tacoed.
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