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Jens

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Everything posted by Jens

  1. Jens

    WTF Goldbar?

    Agreed.
  2. Jens

    WTF Goldbar?

    I seem to get burned nearly every time I attempt a cragging getaway at Index these days. If it is an afterwork attempt-- on the way. On a weekend trip- on the way home. I've many times made it home to Seattle from 11worth over i-90 faster than some trips coming home from a day of cragging at index. As a result, I've limited my after work cragging to North Bend with the 6-8 lanes of freeway and been more inclined to ski other resorts instead of Stevens. I know very little, however I've heard rumors that the local businessmen's associations in both Sultan and Goldbar have contributed to the problem by blocking new construction projects, free grant money offered by the state, and stoplight changes because the gridlock is good for business. Some climbers say that it is one's civic duty to boycott the businesses in these two towns and instead wait to buy food, gas, drinks, and use the restroom until reaching Monroe. I'm sure somebody on cc.com knows the goings on.
  3. Rainier Summit in Winter can make Mt. Washington back East in Winter look like an all inclusive resort. Rainier can make anything or anywhere in the lower 48 look like club med. (Even on their worst days in their coldest days of winter).
  4. Good memories of Skookumchuck Quarry. --------------- If you tromp around the brush and deep backwoods in the Fossil Rock area (not near the areas where everyone climbs these days), you'll see what I'd deem could be some of the better bouldering in Wasington someday- Lots of small features on really steep stone. -although I haven't climbed at fossil for perhaps 15 years now. The old growth forest is amazing. Kind of like of prehistory.
  5. I've had a rope confiscated flying out of France. I've also been told that harnesses can be confiscated. I fly down to sport climb on Vegas limestone fairly frequently. I carry on rock shoes and check the rope and draws now.
  6. Great stoke guys! I'd be interested in picking a day (my vote is Tuesday) that could be an "anyone that shows- meet at the crag after work" weekly ritual that could be ongoing from April through June. Pick a day and go. On rainy days it could be world wall 1 (stays dry in the rain) and on dry days it could be anywhere else around north bend. Index is tough for Seattle folk to battle traffic for a few hours of after work cragging. It could be a set in stone ongoing thing. -------------------------- As for after work belayers, sadly many of the regulars at my Seattle Climbing Gym only ever seem to talk about outdoor climbing and seem to instead be content to climb outside once every seven weeks at best. Many would rather yard away on the same 3-4 indoor routes on the overhanging lead wall month after month and then wonder why they climb a full number grade less on footworky routes at places like smith.
  7. Over the last few years, CC has had a few threads on the routes you describe. The routes are only so-so but make for an OK diversion on the way out from a Daniel or Cathedral Rock alpine trip.
  8. Peakpimp, I'm game. I like the Copper Gate idea. Aquavit is the order for all the Norskes like myself. The Reading Gaol on 65th (near the tin hat on the west side of Phinney) could accomodate a crowd and is never ever busy. Prost is cool but it seems often crowded into a small space and hard to squeeze in a group in one of the corner tables. My vote is someplace really slow so we can rule the joint. Copper Gate, Readng Gaol, or Sloop anyone? How does 7:30 sound?
  9. One of the packages was my stuff from New York to Seattle after my wife and I flew back from Barbados. We'd had airlines lose 2 bags on the trip so we figured mail would be better and we'd be paying overages if we didn't. We were outta luck. I lost a brand new pair of Sportiva rock shoes, some designer men's leather sandalls, 1 ski jacket, 2 shirts, a belay jacket,and whole bunch more. The other package was a brand new rope that REI gave us free store credit for---- bless their heart.
  10. That sounds like a hoot! .. but not to rain on your parade: About a month ago they had flights to Red Rocks for 28 bucks each way. The idea of a school bus would be cool, but you'd spend more on gas then you would on a low budget expedition to Pakistan. Or you could make a trip to Red Rocks every year for five years and stay at the Bellagio. If you said you were leaving the 21st and and returning on the 27th of the same month. Check out the limestone around that region, you may never go back to Red Rocks again.
  11. Jens

    Pitons?

    I'm jealous of you collection Bill. I've swung the forrest before and found it to be the ultimate. ----------- Pass the word to start leaving pins in place on alpine routes around the cascades.
  12. It was a fine day out with a fun partner. ------------ With all the real estate up on that side of the mountain, it could become Seattle's own Ben Nevis. The Chimney pitch was absolutely classic and had some thin moves.
  13. You'll be fine. What shop?
  14. Looking for partners for midweek day trips next week. All of my buds are Mon-Fri. work types or are busy and my wife has tendonitis. I have next mid-week off. Alpental Ice? Rock Climbing at Vantage? Rock Climbing at Little Si? Banks Ice? (if it hasn't fallen down) Pineapple express on Guye (if c onditions are right next week) Watusi Rodeo? (conditions dep.) Index rock climbing? Equinox Wall rock climbing? I'd prefer not to ropegun any noobs.
  15. On a trip, just try to stay healthy and eat. Training in advance is overrated. You'll get fit on the approach if you are young. ----------------- You could go with the Don Whillans high altitude simulator- Give yourself a gnarly hangover and then breathe through a drinking straw all morning. When I used to live out where you live, the west tiger cable line was the choice for me and my buds. Run until you puke.
  16. Does anyone know how hard the drilled route is as a summer rock route? I've never stopped to give it a spin.
  17. Nice climbing guys! --------------------- I took a 100+ foot leader fall wearing pack and pons' on a single 8mm cord on the upper portion of that route in winter about 20 years ago.
  18. I was there yesterday. Have fun and now the lecture..... Please let it grow. I'll be really upset if some top ropers go up and start swinging tools at the ice. Parts of the main formation wobble with one kick. If you must go; Hook around delicate features, buy a lift ticket, obey every word the ski patrol tells you (even if it is to pack up and go home), and don't practice or learn to climb ice at this place- the features are just to delicate right now, be diplomatic to all paying skiiers and patrollers, and don't start any form of confrontation if you and your ropes get skied on or over while belaying. One ice climbing jerk will close this area for good. -man..... I sound like Polish Bob! Have fun.
  19. My second gut reaction was that they could be on one of two towers that are next to the east and south faces of the tooth (above Great Scott Bowl for you skiers). I also think that the picture with the climbers crouching under the overhang is a seperate location.
  20. A friend at the gym today told me that with the economy tanking, this kind of thing is increasing.
  21. With that latest photo enhancement I'm going to say that I was wrong. I don't think it is the little crag mentioned, even though I'm told that climbers have been practicing on it since pre world war 2. The crag I was talking about earlier on the way to the Pinnacle parking lot is actually granitic.
  22. The small slaby cliff I'm talking about is granitic and either off that bump you mention or the larger bump farther away from reflection. I'd have to drive it again to jog my memory.
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