verticalturtle

Mikey is so hard!!! Hard like rock!! At least in the head region. Cheers mike, I'm off to Mecca in 5 weeks....

Montana Lots of stuff there is not in books, but that's cause books bring folks lookin for routes and thats exactly what most Montanans (?) don't want. Oh yeah!! Most of the stuff in Antarctica is not published either. I think all flights are booked though.

so was it mostly just snow?I would like to do it again if it is ice. Better question for Ray or others since you were just there. There is a mixed route that connects the small snowfields to the right of Serpentine. Did you happen to scope it, and did it look doable this year. vt Umm just say colin's post I guess it's in. [ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: verticalturtle ]

Just an update for those confused.Having just been there yesterday the ONLY rap station was above Bob's Your Uncle on webbing and biners. The other raps by chossmaster, Crackmaster lambada were all gone. It looked like the top clips of Buschido were gone too. Having just read this thread I do not suspect that those slings will last out there long... Umm, I hate to get into the debate as I just wanted to give the update but, since I started here are some things. The bolts are still there at the rap stations they just need chains. A dallop of epoxy on top of the actual nut after chains are affixed will prevent them from being robbed by anything less then a a large bolt cutter or pry bar if someone really wants to rip out the whole thing (it wouldn't seem so though). ALso for the scientific types just how long does the foot traffic impact last on the vegetation on the mesa top. vt

The shortest answer is yes you can clip both, but the impact force will be greater. vt

Thanks for the info. My sights are set on Columbia more then on Bryce. Hopefully to be done in the first 2 weeks of august. So, snow should be gone. vt

I expect Dru to jump all over this one.... What I want to know is if anyone has any info on the Bush River road access to the Mt. Bryce / Mt Coulmbia area? Anyone been there last year or even the last couple of years. If not does BC have a DOT web site with phone numbers that would lead me to a real person to answer this question. vt

Good call on the new-maniac style crampoons. I has s-12s that have worked excellently for about 6 years on everything from sort snow to vertical ice. I did pick up a pair of Sabertooths cause I thought the second points would make a difference and was dissapointed that they did not seem to benefit me much. Any one want to buy em $50? That said I can't speak to the Grivels. My only thought on them is that depending on how you are attaching them to a pack the stiff zetyl for the toe section may interfere with say a sleve style crampon pocket. $.02 vt

Almost

Omega 4.0 Wire gate mucho roomminimal pesos $.02 vt

Thanks for all the insight and good ideas from those that gave it, and thanks for the restraint posed by those normally more prone to spray. Here are those in consideration:Kelty Cloud 4500TNF Prophet 65Gregory Makalu ProKhamsin 62 Most others were weeded out due to size (too small) or weight (too heavy). I have the NOZONE and basically want that in a larger size. Frame packs are good: those that can be stripped are better. I like the adjustability of the TNF and Kelty but have little faith in either company. My only beef with the Khamsin is the size is at a minimum. Trust me I know about going light, but there are some routes where stuff is just bulky, you may have to sit and wait out weather, or somethingone else is slowing you down. Typically I do more technical routes with speed in mind, but I have some I want to do that are a bit more remote (ie minimim 1 full day in 1 full day out 1 full on route; assuming all goes well). Thanks againvt PS: The dry side of the state has been expiriencing a bit of a partner drout for a while. If the above extremely vague route description sounds appealing drop a msg.

Okay I know this pack thing is a common theme here and has been posted to death for alpine packs. I have and love my Nozone, but I am planning to do a few climb specific 3-5 day trips and it will be too small. Weight is a factor, price is not, features are good, useless gadgets are just that, thinking 4500ci 65-75L. Ideasvt

You were asking for it on that one Mike. What's going on by the way that you are posting here. Did you lower your standards? I saw that you had were trying to do some e-dateing for redrocks.And if you think B-ham sux try the dry side.....vt

I did a search and found no info so I'll ask. Anyone out there have any beta on the performance of the Cloud pack by Kelty? I know Kelty basically sucks overall, but it looks like this one got a bit of brain power geared towards climbers. I'm still skeptical though ... thus I ask. vt

yup we had the right one. I know it only gets a little sun in the morning, I don't know what else would make it so anorexic. So the sun thing was an assumption.

The term "in" seems quite relative when it comes to ice. Espcially to those crazy Canuks.

Dru,I think it just got too much sun (k hawk). There was avy debris covering the bottom pitch which allowed us to walk to the steep bit and would have been 1.5 pitches. the bottom pitch was verglass and would/ could be done w pins. The top pitch was pretty thin too; it had a small pillar about a foot or less in diameter that looked like it would break if you were not real carefull. I do believe that it had been done as there were old melted out signs of travel, and that it could be done now even but it would involve as much rock as ice. Probably more. Nice tick list by the way. How was Gibralter? I was there on the 17th and the central line was less than 1cm thick with lots of water underneath. vt

Whats up Dru? To respond to your query I think they really turn out to be disallusions rather than resoultions. How about have more and less , get more , and more . Sounds like a good general plan to me. Eh?

Here's the strait poop: IN= Cascade Rogansgrotto + his & hersKidd FallsBridge too farGuiness GullyWeeping Wall LowerSniveling GullyMurchison FallsBalfour WallWilson MajorLady Wilson's Clevage (all covered w/ avy debris)Two O'clockShades of BeautyPolar Circus OUT Kitty HawkMixed MasterMost of Upper Weeping WallSpirit of Crazy HorseHydrophobia2nd pitch of Shooting StarOh le Tabernack The list is certainly not complete but this is what I can confirm from a 2 week trip that just ended. Snow was on its way so more may come in soon. I sure hope so.vt

Polar Circus is nice and frozen That's where I'm going.

Hands down My Arc'teryx Gamma SV jacket. Does everything well, from summer alpine to winter ice to bacon and eggs. Oh yeah is pretty good too!

That's a Femullet Dru. Deadlly critters...run if you can.

Without a doubt Cobras. I tend to use em all year in all conditions. The design of the grip (although big it's what I'm used to ) makes it both a bent and clearance shaft. Most other clearance shaft tools do not have the bent shaft adventage and rely on the little thumb thingy. Cost? yeah there spendy. But how expensive is regret?

Yeah. I figured there were enough folks out there that thought they were ropeguns. I get enough self stimulation without haveing it in my handle...er...name

Any news of real ice?Anyone been up north yet?How are the frozen ice hosers...er hoses in Canadaland? Can't wait to go get some good canuk vt