verticalturtle

Got new ones cheeper from Barrabes in 1 week!!

Nobody likes carbon? I have had my Cobras a hear and a half and used them on every alpine route I did last year. I decided on them after demoing just about every other tool (except flys) and talking to folks who have had the carbons for a while; locals and pros alike. As far as the picks being not as strong...I found (in a desperate situation) they made for a nice piton. I have never had a problem with em. They won't go in as easy a a strait shaft in hard snow, but then strait shafts don't perform as well on the steeps and I have been more interested in technical routes. This said they plunge better than my old pulsars. Comfort in cane position....if I am doing much cane then I don't need a technical tool and I can grab my Grivel Air tech. These things Rock!!! For this type of tool they even stick fairly well. I had to follow 2 out of 3 pitches of ice w/ one last year and found it far better than other traditional mtn axes. 2 cents vt

Hey Fat Kid! But who am I to judge, you may be just big boned. I did it w/ Scott ~2 weeks ago. Three hours on the approach which starts with a trail and deteriorates to none. Two pieces of beta for the approach. 1: Go to the field w/ BIG boulders before crossing the stream. The trail should be relatively easy to keep till here. 2: after crossing and finding the meadow on the other side, take it all the way to the end. There you should find some cairns leading up hill throught the trees (rt end of meadow) which follow rocks. These seem to end at a high point with no significant trail, but iof you stick to the pines and furs you can skirt the edge of the slide alder and will have already passed the bulk of it. You will hit some, but it will be minimal. Also since you are in Spokane and I don't know of many people here who would do this route I am curious who you really are. I can only think of one person who would go by the name as the community is small. Get in touch with me here or on my e-mail account. Shane

Two important things to remember when looking at these death toll stats.. The current death statistic for every living thing on this planet is 1:1 Second 64.398% of all statistics are wrong Beyond this try to tell the wife that there is an inverse correlation between IQ and death in the mtns, or if it's ice you climb all should know many studies have revieled that hairy palms significantly reduce the risk of frosbite. vt

Try this (250) 566-4325 this is the # for the Mt Robson park supervisor. I had to drive all the way to the park last year to find out that neither it nor the N face of Edith were in any shape to climb so I hope it helps you out.

Didn't see much up high as we were in and out of the clouds for a while, and had a hard enough time finding the N ridge. After descending it I almost wish we hadn't. Yuck! vt

Dana Terraplane OK It's big. It's black. It's nearly indestructable. It's a size medium. It's $450 retail. It's for sale for $275 e-mail me re: terraplane

quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: I did this route this weekend. I was up on Adams Glacier Sunday and we were on the toe of the Glacier by sunrise. As we didn't see you I assume you did it Saturday or VERY early. Just wanted to know if you encountered any rockfall?

Did Adams Glagier in a day on Sunday as it was the only viable option (other routes on that side were in bad shape). Long day but the snow is in great shape on the route. The most difficult part (besides the disgusting N ridge descent) was linking the end of the trail on the N ridge to the trail end at high camp, which may be a bit more simple if you have more than 50' visability. Anyone done Victory Ridge?

Any one have any stories from ever doing Victory ridge or Stormy Monday Couloir on Adams? I know it is probably a bit late this year but beta never hurts for future ascents. vt

highly UN-RECOMMEND direct east of NEWS. This route is the reason Petzl replaced my helmet. The good pitches aren't, and the descent Birdo describes to do is bad even dangerous. IF you do it do the descent for SEWS around the S side. It is more direct and less dangerous. VT

Something to consider...when placed in a shallow vertical orientation how flexable is that super stiff U cable body on the TCUs Answer=not very. Sizes are compatable on aliens vs. TCUs but this point and the idea that it's real hard to trigger TCUs w/ gloves sells me on aliens. And yes I have talked to folks in different areas reporting TCUs to pop in this type of placement. Granted it isn't always like this but I find alot of difficult thin cracks are not very deep; re you can't always get the good downward angle. Aliens bend...nuff said.

Without an axe (2 actually) and crampons my partner and I would have missed out on a cool 3 pitches of ice variation to the upper ridge. Something to think about...

I have to say after owning both I prefer both...in their place. I have had my Gamma jacket on every single trip since I have had it. I used it and gamma salopet for ice all winter. I will agree that powershield is a bit warm for summer in the mtns if its hot, but at least w/ mine they vent like mad. Even with a harness on. I do not agree however that the top is too hot. There are of course days where all I need is a very light windshirt, and the cloudveil veiled peak works well, but those are definately the exception. Even summer in the mountains gets cool when the wind picks up and the gamma seems to do well because it is so breathable. Also after wearing this piece nearly every weekend for over a year, and trust me I do not go easy on my gear, it still looks almost new. If its warm- shoeller pants, gamma top. If its cold powershield pants and top. Butt cold fleece suit and powershield. Freakin hot go nekid This said I don't know anyone with Shoeller tops who has been disapointed with durrability, unless you include pilling. All schoeller will eventually. Powershield doesn't. Neither will keep you dry in rain (but who climbs planning on rain?), but powershield seems to do better in supposedly frozen waterfalls that are sopping. To answer a question..malden does make several weights of their product also. You will also see TNF and others doing powershield stuff soon. And cloudveil will have a dryskin extreme bib and hooded jacket next season. [This message has been edited by verticalturtle (edited 06-05-2001).]

Beck check out some oof the other Arc'teryx packs like the Khamsin 62. The regular (medium) goes from 60-70l and weighs in @ 4lbs.

ditto on the aliens Camalots go big here is a question Any one else had this I have talked to several folks who after setting metolieus micros in a vertical orientation shallow cracks (which is common on harder stuff) have had them pull out after a fall or only hold by half of the cams. My prob with metolieus is they are not really flexable in this orientation. Even though they have a cable, placed this way they act like rigid stems. Comments?

BD Alpamayo 70cm General mountaineering axe Not even scratched but not in bag It's not their current model but they don't change all that much. 50 OBO e-mail is best contact

Sorry didn't see it. I must make a correction though; we went a bit right and onto rock not left. If you look at a good pix of the face there is rock separating the couloir proper from the headwall...that would be a portion of our route. Kind of odd with all the ice coming off, but we expirienced no rockfall at all.

I was up ther same time 5/13 and can account for the rock and icefall. I have to ask though, since I did this, why did you choose to continue into Leuthold proper when it was raining bullets (at least one of which you caught). A variant to the right of the rock rib took us to half height in the lower fan where we saw everything fall but were well out of it's way. Sorry if this sounds like a critique, but for the benefit of those considering the route you can limit your chances of being pelted by varying the route. Just don't go too far left unless you want a few pitches of rock. You do still take your chances as stuff is constantly falling, but it doesn't make sense to me to jump into the line of fire.

between speedy gonzales and the turtle who won the race You weren't refering to me were you? Gosh I didn't even know I entered. BTW I may see you if you are there next weekend.

Wow all this mention of rap and no talk of the Beasties! Thought you should know Erik but they are on my list along w/ Massive Attack, Morcheeba (more cheeba anyone?),tom waits, Pink Martini (great live), and Medeski Martin and Wood. Mmmmmmmm Good!

I migh tget the chance to do Thin red line in a couple of weeks. Can I get any beta on stuff not in the guides, i.e. bad rock, fixed pro, or bad fixed pro (rusty 1/8 in bolts). Also any info on how involved the A3 is would help. Any info is appreciated Thanks

There are some cool ultralight bags now out to check if you want a compromise. I just got a 30 dg down sierra designs; no zip, 1.5lb, elastic eliminates cold spots, packs the size of a soft ball. Combine this with one bivy and your set (my integral designs bivy can easily fit 2, but I cant speak for all of them). BTW marmot is also doing some cool 1/2 zip ultralight bags of comparable weight, but they cant do the elastic thing due to patents.