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verticalturtle

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Everything posted by verticalturtle

  1. thanks for the useful info chuck
  2. more info on this vaccine if you have any please!!! I have never heard of this and was always under the impression that if not treated early the disease was for life.
  3. Bring good raingear and a good book. Make it a few good books and mabey some single malt.
  4. AAARGH!!!! thats not what I wanted to hear! Well mabey it will get colder or more info from folks after this weekend.
  5. If you like a bail up front Sabertooth. They do it all well. I got a pair for this winter and used them for waterfall ice to 5+ for all but 1 trip. Due to their horizontal front points they do climb neve like a dream.(by the way the exception tri I had the new M10, A+) If you want to be able to do it all with (almost) every boot CM s12 w/ front straps. This poojab will allow you to attach them to an excellent boot like the La Sportiva Trango Plus( as well as others in this expanding category). Grivel makes a model similar to this that should also work well, I just happen to have had excellent expirience with my CMs. I work in a gear shop and see most of the stuff that comes out, and get a chance to try or buy most of it. You will not go wrong with most of the major manufacturers (i.e. CM, Grivel, BD) the single most important thing to ask is what you will be using it for, and determine the KIND of crampon you want. That is, what you want it to do for you. One thing to consider is attachment. For the most part full straps are antiquated. They are slow to put on and if you do much reading you will come across acounts of those whose full straps have blown off. On the other hand You will be hard pressed to find an account of an expirienced climber whose step-ins popped off (although I do not doubt that this may have happened). The hybred type like I described earlier combine ease versatility and will take only seconds longer to put on, if any time at all. Consider this and you should find somethig good. Read these strings and you will also find much brand loyalty. Mine happens to be Charlet. Good luck and happy climbing!
  6. I have not heard about the conditions in the enchantments for a while. Does any one have any info on route conditions for Dragontail or the N side couloir routes on Stuart? I plan to go in to do a route on Dragontail rt of Serpentine which was fully iced this time last year and would appreciare any beta on conditions be it road, route, or other routes. I have been stoked to do this since i saw it last year but if it isn't iced I would be happy doing Triple C or Stuart again. Also since someone brought up fees in another string, when are they mandatory there?
  7. I may be misinterpreting Forrest, but did you do it or just the approach. I scoped the route same time (last Aug) and it looked to be in no shape to climb. I hope this year it will be in a bit better shape.
  8. I drove all the way up in early august last year just to stay in the parking lot. They happened to have a very late spring and things where sliding aplenty. Compounding this problem was the info that there had been a couple of low snow years that have apparently opened up quite a few crevasses severely impeding the approach from berg lake. With this info Kain face might have been an only slightly better route (for conditions). Consider that the Rockies have had yet another low snow year so far and it seems like this might be another year for rock routes, or off season early/late attempts. I still want to do it but I HIGHLY suggest getting current info. The rangers were okay espcially if you can talk to someone who has been on the mtn recently. Another good source (better in fact when we were there) was gravity gear in Jasper. Good Luck.
  9. I know this is a bit off of the cascades, but does anyone have any info on the condition of Blodget Canyon since their fire last year. The rockis usualy good starting in March but I don't know about the road, campground, or trail since the fire.
  10. Bronco tubes sure are nice even though many consider them a luxury. They are in fact not absolutely essential. As for the pad, many removable (all I think) ones fold out either verticaly or horizontaly and at least one is a trifold. this makes for more space, and not having to sleep on all the straps a buckles. I have used mine many times and think them an asset. you can bring your own but on some routes they get in the way alot. Just one guys opinion, but something to think about.
  11. You are correct about the length. It is not 90 ft. It wass a bit run out for us though as we had nolarge cams and the bolts are at the bottom. I thought it was about 30-40 ft till you got to a large bolck/chockstone? whatever it was it gave decent pro. But you are technicaly correct it isn't 90 but it has been about 2 years give it a few more and I amsure my memory will fail sufficiently for it to be about...oh say ...150'
  12. Help! Spring break is next week and I have off starting this weekend to next weekend....but I have no belay. My partner flaked out. Anyone got time off. Alpine, long trad, short trad. I open. Gear to 5.10 btw
  13. The rumors are true!! 2x4 yes! New bolt, yes! 90ft runout yes! Fun, fun, fun! The route is great just be carefull on the descent. We got the ropes stuck and had to prusick up em twice! Any other questions just ask.
  14. If price is no option and you want extreme versatility, Arc'teryx nozone is something to consider. Beyond that the chaos or chernobyl by cold cold world get rave reviews from everyone I encounter with them. These packs have lasted 12+ years for some I know and they are not easy on their gear (i.e. tossing off the top of a route). I personaly have two Lowe Alpine, Alpine Attacks, a 40 and a 50. They have both suited me well, are light and inexpensive. I also have been with several people who rave about their BD ice pack. I dont know anyone who loves their wild things sacks. They are certainly burley but dont seem to have much else going for them. Honestly I would say look for features first. 50L works great for me for 2-3 days worth of stuff and a little extra. 40L was okay for an overnight on Stuart N ridge because ir was very light with only bivy gear and most of the time the rest of the stuff is in use. Some packs have gear loops on the harnesses, few have usable tool holsters just behind the hip belt. (this is the big reason I opted for the Lowe over the CCW, they are VERY handy on alpine and my harness has gear loops) Some have a substantial hipbelt, others have almost none. My 40 has only 2in webbing, which is not as comfy on the trail, but oh so nice on route. Also look for a useful removable back pad which can become your bivy pad, mine has many times which saves having to bring a pad. Also some larger packs like the old BD mixed master a big enough and have a sleeve long enough to be a bivy sack. Tool sleeves or no, convienence vs. weight. Crampon pouch/ sleeve vs. daisy chains. Figure out what you want then get the pack the fits the bill. Most are under 200 and don't come in sizes like bigger packs. If at first you don't find you like your purchase...go work at a gear store where you get to try everything and get discounts . Its nice to have options.
  15. Descent from liberty BELL is easy 2 raps and some scrambeling/walking (snow will make this a wee bit different ). Liberty Ridge is another story...
  16. I like em a bit beefier myself. They are not really true approach shoes but I wear my La Sportiva Trango Pluses for nearly everything. They hike great, are crampon compatible (with the right ones), fit me well, and I climb everything up to 5.8 in them. Suprisingly even though they have a few seams I have NEVER gotten wet in them. They edge just about as well as my rock shoes but have great traction. The only things they don't do are smear wonderfully. If they fit your foot they may be the perfect do all spring/summer alpine boot.
  17. excellent info on the last reply. only one tastey morsel left out...metloius. they are new to the ledge market but have some good things going. Construction is similar to the A5, but it also has an integral hooped spreader bar to keep tension in the middle. They make a double as well as single and the flys have the tent pole built in as well as having a window. You may have noticed the window thing from Mtn. Hardware, well thats who is making them. The down side is that they are a bit heavier, but super durrable. Also just wanted to mention a couple of corrections. The BD sky lounge comes in single and double, it has a rainfly made by bibler as well as being able to support a version of the I-tent. I also know a couple of friends with these (the single version) and none of them have had problems with them. I'd contact metolius or a retailer to get the details on theirs. that is if you have time to wait and the money is not burning a hole in your pocket
  18. Looking for an anne from portland who sent me a msg on 3-14. sorry my reply was sent back. try again with a new address, as I am interested in China.
  19. Thanks to all for the info. I appreciate any more, espciallly those involving route/road conditions. I want to go up soon but have some commitments this weekend. From what I saw last year looks accurate at WI 3, but it was long, mostly ice (which is prefered here), and could be thin. If there is any interest on an attempt in April feel free to drop a msg. There are few expirienced hungry alpinists here on the east side.
  20. Last year I did the loop hike from mtneer creek to snow creek parking lot because i could find no partner for a route. My companion was not in shape for a route due to injury and we had no gear. nevertheless when we got to Colchuck lake Saw what looked like a beautiful line of a mixed route going up the N face of dragontail between backbone and serpentine. Becky's guide only describes a route in this area in terms of an unpleasant sounding rock route, yet it was in shape as a beautiful mostly ice and snow route last year (when I ran back the next weekend weather sucked, then it got too warm) I am wondering if anyone has any info on this as a route or any idea about conditions.
  21. Not done the Black Ice but I reallly want to this summer. I have done the E. ridge and exum direct. I also know folks who have done the N. ridge via the Valhalla traverse. This allows a return to a camp at the lower saddle and means you dont have to carry up and over, but also makes for a long day.
  22. Actually that is just what I have in mind myself. I assume that you are on the coast, as most at this site are. I on the otherhand am in Spokane, where partners for interesting alpine routes are few. Get in touch soon as I am already making plans for spring break and April. verticalturtle@hotmail.com quote: Originally posted by Colin: Being a student I get the summer off, and being a climber I would like to spend as much of it as possible climbing. I am looking for a very commited alpine climbing partner who is either a student or has a job that lets him/her take long vacations. From about the tenth of June, to the tenth of August, I am hoping to alpine climb as much as possible. I know that there are tons of things to be done in the Cascades, but in reality one never gets as much climbing in if one stays at home. I am interested in road trips to the Tetons, the Bugaboos, and southern BC and Alberta in general. However, a more serious trip to Peru, Bolivia, Alaska, or BC's Coast Range is definitely an option. I know that this is a very specific request, but if you are capable of such trips this summer, e-mail me and let's start climbing now.
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