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verticalturtle

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Everything posted by verticalturtle

  1. If price is no option and you want extreme versatility, Arc'teryx nozone is something to consider. Beyond that the chaos or chernobyl by cold cold world get rave reviews from everyone I encounter with them. These packs have lasted 12+ years for some I know and they are not easy on their gear (i.e. tossing off the top of a route). I personaly have two Lowe Alpine, Alpine Attacks, a 40 and a 50. They have both suited me well, are light and inexpensive. I also have been with several people who rave about their BD ice pack. I dont know anyone who loves their wild things sacks. They are certainly burley but dont seem to have much else going for them. Honestly I would say look for features first. 50L works great for me for 2-3 days worth of stuff and a little extra. 40L was okay for an overnight on Stuart N ridge because ir was very light with only bivy gear and most of the time the rest of the stuff is in use. Some packs have gear loops on the harnesses, few have usable tool holsters just behind the hip belt. (this is the big reason I opted for the Lowe over the CCW, they are VERY handy on alpine and my harness has gear loops) Some have a substantial hipbelt, others have almost none. My 40 has only 2in webbing, which is not as comfy on the trail, but oh so nice on route. Also look for a useful removable back pad which can become your bivy pad, mine has many times which saves having to bring a pad. Also some larger packs like the old BD mixed master a big enough and have a sleeve long enough to be a bivy sack. Tool sleeves or no, convienence vs. weight. Crampon pouch/ sleeve vs. daisy chains. Figure out what you want then get the pack the fits the bill. Most are under 200 and don't come in sizes like bigger packs. If at first you don't find you like your purchase...go work at a gear store where you get to try everything and get discounts . Its nice to have options.
  2. Descent from liberty BELL is easy 2 raps and some scrambeling/walking (snow will make this a wee bit different ). Liberty Ridge is another story...
  3. I like em a bit beefier myself. They are not really true approach shoes but I wear my La Sportiva Trango Pluses for nearly everything. They hike great, are crampon compatible (with the right ones), fit me well, and I climb everything up to 5.8 in them. Suprisingly even though they have a few seams I have NEVER gotten wet in them. They edge just about as well as my rock shoes but have great traction. The only things they don't do are smear wonderfully. If they fit your foot they may be the perfect do all spring/summer alpine boot.
  4. excellent info on the last reply. only one tastey morsel left out...metloius. they are new to the ledge market but have some good things going. Construction is similar to the A5, but it also has an integral hooped spreader bar to keep tension in the middle. They make a double as well as single and the flys have the tent pole built in as well as having a window. You may have noticed the window thing from Mtn. Hardware, well thats who is making them. The down side is that they are a bit heavier, but super durrable. Also just wanted to mention a couple of corrections. The BD sky lounge comes in single and double, it has a rainfly made by bibler as well as being able to support a version of the I-tent. I also know a couple of friends with these (the single version) and none of them have had problems with them. I'd contact metolius or a retailer to get the details on theirs. that is if you have time to wait and the money is not burning a hole in your pocket
  5. Looking for an anne from portland who sent me a msg on 3-14. sorry my reply was sent back. try again with a new address, as I am interested in China.
  6. Thanks to all for the info. I appreciate any more, espciallly those involving route/road conditions. I want to go up soon but have some commitments this weekend. From what I saw last year looks accurate at WI 3, but it was long, mostly ice (which is prefered here), and could be thin. If there is any interest on an attempt in April feel free to drop a msg. There are few expirienced hungry alpinists here on the east side.
  7. Last year I did the loop hike from mtneer creek to snow creek parking lot because i could find no partner for a route. My companion was not in shape for a route due to injury and we had no gear. nevertheless when we got to Colchuck lake Saw what looked like a beautiful line of a mixed route going up the N face of dragontail between backbone and serpentine. Becky's guide only describes a route in this area in terms of an unpleasant sounding rock route, yet it was in shape as a beautiful mostly ice and snow route last year (when I ran back the next weekend weather sucked, then it got too warm) I am wondering if anyone has any info on this as a route or any idea about conditions.
  8. Not done the Black Ice but I reallly want to this summer. I have done the E. ridge and exum direct. I also know folks who have done the N. ridge via the Valhalla traverse. This allows a return to a camp at the lower saddle and means you dont have to carry up and over, but also makes for a long day.
  9. Actually that is just what I have in mind myself. I assume that you are on the coast, as most at this site are. I on the otherhand am in Spokane, where partners for interesting alpine routes are few. Get in touch soon as I am already making plans for spring break and April. verticalturtle@hotmail.com quote: Originally posted by Colin: Being a student I get the summer off, and being a climber I would like to spend as much of it as possible climbing. I am looking for a very commited alpine climbing partner who is either a student or has a job that lets him/her take long vacations. From about the tenth of June, to the tenth of August, I am hoping to alpine climb as much as possible. I know that there are tons of things to be done in the Cascades, but in reality one never gets as much climbing in if one stays at home. I am interested in road trips to the Tetons, the Bugaboos, and southern BC and Alberta in general. However, a more serious trip to Peru, Bolivia, Alaska, or BC's Coast Range is definitely an option. I know that this is a very specific request, but if you are capable of such trips this summer, e-mail me and let's start climbing now.
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