verticalturtle

I agree the thing will break again. Mine has worked off and on and seems worse in the cold and or damp go figure.and I found the performance on mine to go down exponentialy in the cold. But, if weight is the ultimate issue it is super cool. Just make sure to bring a light if you bring the stove so you don't look like an when the lighter fails. vt

Can anyone speak for U Wyoming? or UN Reno area? They have programs I am interested in.

mmmm...thanks some of those routes in there look tastey And the approach can't be worse than that for Bear Mtn.

After alot of driving and getting weathered off mant places I was able to do the S Ridge on Gimley last week. Stellar to say the least. So here is the Q. I know there is a route or two on Dag. Do you do the same approach and drop into the basin or come up through bear country? 2nd; Anyond done the S face route on Asgard? By the way Dru My partner led the dihedral/ roof pitch and skipped the whole thing infavor of the steep crack to the left which he laybacked. I was hateing him when I say how good the Dihedral looked but to his credit we had no giude and he got suckered off route by an old pin there. Definate canadian .9 variation. [This message has been edited by verticalturtle (edited 09-16-2001).]

Recent world events should be taken into consideration in an estimate of the time it will take to get any gear from Barrabes or other companies.....

I have been using my GiGi on every multi pitch route since I bought it over a year ago and love it. In tandem with another device (ATC etc.) it works great. At times when I have found myself with only the GiGi I have had to resort to a munter for lead belaying (problem fixed by the reverso). In comparison to the Reverso I find the GiGi to be a bit smoother for bringing up the second. Also the it is nice to leave the GiGi in place and set up the 2nd device for leading w/o having to take the belay off (a necessary step when moving the Reverso from 2nd belay on the anchor to lead belay). $.02

Just got back from there. Tieton cracks ROCK! Thin to win!! Orange Sunshine was great w/ great pro and jams. Also at the bend Imperial Master is a great Stout .11c if you are into those tight cracks as I am. Bummer about the slab at the beginning though. The Bend Highlights were Living for the City (?) .10c and 'Desperate' .11c/d SSSSSustained but short; both my partners thought it was aptly named. It was my first route of this grade and as long as you wait till your hands pass those spots has some great pro, albeit thin. Hey Capt! Did I run into you there at Royal Sunday? vt

Thanks and actually I was considering doing the direct E butt solo (roped) Anything to watch for on this route doing it this method? vt

Just a Quuick Question as it is the only formation at thepass I have not yet done; can you get off of SEWS with 1 rope? vt

I will be unemployed soon and want to find an expirienced (yes it's a relative term) partner to go to the Canadian Rockies and or the Bugs with for some of the big routes there. Please contact ASAP!!! vt

Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perserverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common then unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not;unrewarded genieus is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistance and determination alone are omnipotent. Press on! _Calvin Coolidge

Barrabes rules!!! $44 US for boreal ballets, and they arrived in a week! Watch the shipping on some stuff though.

Capt. it is wonderfull to get deals from working at a shop Which is why I got the Cobras. A nice feature I havent heard brought up is that all BD tools are very KISS. Steel heads which won't distort after a pounding, a hole in the head big enough for a biner, and you can use your spare pick to tighten or loosen the monster sized bolts that hold the picks in place. All this is on any of the BD tools. Some things just come down to opinion. Yes there are tools that suck, but there are alot of great ones out there. Ya just got to figure out what you want and can afford plug that into your equation and make some compromises. I compromised price, but I also figure they will last a loooonnng time. vt

Thanks. for the beta. By the Way are you interested in going back to do anything there such as the route on asgard?

After hearing Dru mention Gimley I thought I would as a question about the rest of the area. Are there any other established routes? I have been in the area w/ a non-climbing partner and drooled. I know that long ago one of the climbing rags had a write up on the area and that the route on Gimley is there, but I don't know where the others are. I am sure all of the other major peaks have been done by a technical route. So, has anyone done em?

Nobody likes carbon? I have had my Cobras a hear and a half and used them on every alpine route I did last year. I decided on them after demoing just about every other tool (except flys) and talking to folks who have had the carbons for a while; locals and pros alike. As far as the picks being not as strong...I found (in a desperate situation) they made for a nice piton. I have never had a problem with em. They won't go in as easy a a strait shaft in hard snow, but then strait shafts don't perform as well on the steeps and I have been more interested in technical routes. This said they plunge better than my old pulsars. Comfort in cane position....if I am doing much cane then I don't need a technical tool and I can grab my Grivel Air tech. These things Rock!!! For this type of tool they even stick fairly well. I had to follow 2 out of 3 pitches of ice w/ one last year and found it far better than other traditional mtn axes. 2 cents vt

Hey Fat Kid! But who am I to judge, you may be just big boned. I did it w/ Scott ~2 weeks ago. Three hours on the approach which starts with a trail and deteriorates to none. Two pieces of beta for the approach. 1: Go to the field w/ BIG boulders before crossing the stream. The trail should be relatively easy to keep till here. 2: after crossing and finding the meadow on the other side, take it all the way to the end. There you should find some cairns leading up hill throught the trees (rt end of meadow) which follow rocks. These seem to end at a high point with no significant trail, but iof you stick to the pines and furs you can skirt the edge of the slide alder and will have already passed the bulk of it. You will hit some, but it will be minimal. Also since you are in Spokane and I don't know of many people here who would do this route I am curious who you really are. I can only think of one person who would go by the name as the community is small. Get in touch with me here or on my e-mail account. Shane

Two important things to remember when looking at these death toll stats.. The current death statistic for every living thing on this planet is 1:1 Second 64.398% of all statistics are wrong Beyond this try to tell the wife that there is an inverse correlation between IQ and death in the mtns, or if it's ice you climb all should know many studies have revieled that hairy palms significantly reduce the risk of frosbite. vt

Try this (250) 566-4325 this is the # for the Mt Robson park supervisor. I had to drive all the way to the park last year to find out that neither it nor the N face of Edith were in any shape to climb so I hope it helps you out.

Didn't see much up high as we were in and out of the clouds for a while, and had a hard enough time finding the N ridge. After descending it I almost wish we hadn't. Yuck! vt

quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: I did this route this weekend. I was up on Adams Glacier Sunday and we were on the toe of the Glacier by sunrise. As we didn't see you I assume you did it Saturday or VERY early. Just wanted to know if you encountered any rockfall?

Did Adams Glagier in a day on Sunday as it was the only viable option (other routes on that side were in bad shape). Long day but the snow is in great shape on the route. The most difficult part (besides the disgusting N ridge descent) was linking the end of the trail on the N ridge to the trail end at high camp, which may be a bit more simple if you have more than 50' visability. Anyone done Victory Ridge?

Any one have any stories from ever doing Victory ridge or Stormy Monday Couloir on Adams? I know it is probably a bit late this year but beta never hurts for future ascents. vt

highly UN-RECOMMEND direct east of NEWS. This route is the reason Petzl replaced my helmet. The good pitches aren't, and the descent Birdo describes to do is bad even dangerous. IF you do it do the descent for SEWS around the S side. It is more direct and less dangerous. VT