mattp

Hood has killed as many or more climbers than any other peak around but the south side is a good newbie climb. Choose a day when there is no big wind or wet weather predicted for the next three days, and maybe check for an avalanche warning, and take it half way seriously. It should be just fine but you better know at least a little bit about climbing steep snow.

Here's Seattle's Greenlake from the air. North is off to the right.

Hey all: I just want to let you know that it is looking like a good year at the Climber's Picnic. It is not supposed to be raining sideways on Thursday, and we've got some good slideshow presenters lined up: among others, RockclimberGirl, Steph Abegg, and Wayne Wallace. We'll have a mix of rock climbing and mountain climbing pictures to look at, and I hope we'll have a pretty good gear swap as well. If somebody is gearing up for Antartica, I have a -40 western mountaineering bag for sale.

Everybody has their own sense of what is fun around here and you're right, Tim, a good old fashion train wreck can be lots of fun -- but it was also apparent that lots of folks, while they may have had something to say on the topic, were largely just bored and looking for something to jump on. Maybe Brett can show up at the climber's picnic on Thursday and meet Micah in person. How about a couple of Aborigine slides and we can revisit the whole thing over a couple of hot dogs?

I have some Friends that I'm pretty sure I got from Jardine in Yosemite in '78 or '79, trading for ropes he was hanging on the Nose. They say "Wild Country", Friend 2, US Patent...something (hard to read) ... made in england. I have what appears to be an earlier one, size .5 maybe, with no mark. The stem appears to be a different type of metal - it has tarnished differently. Is that the elusive "Jardine model?"

For Washington: Davis Holland/Lovin Arms, Index Midway, Castle Rock N. Face, Nooksack Tower Burgner Stanley, Prussik Peak Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier With the exception of Nooksack Tower, these are all popular routes. They are popular for good reason. There's good reason Nooksack is not popular, too. It is not easy, it is not easy to get down from, and it is not featured in the "Select" guidebooks. It is a great climb on one of Washington's coolest peaks, and full value, though.

Don't forget: We're celebrating WASHINGTON CLIMBING next week!

Awesome!!! Lloyd's place is really cool and it is warm and dry down there, while up on the pass it is still ski season. This is truly the best of all worlds; one of the supreme campouts of the year! Great news!!!!

Awesome! Skin-in 2006

Yes, I'm still looking for projection equipment. I have some good slideshowers lined up, but we could use more entertainment. In light of current events at Index, it'd be appropriate to look at slides of Index Town Wall and get stoked over our dreams of purchasing it for climbers, but anything that is generally in the spirit of "lets get excited about climbing" is pretty much in order. And lets talk about this gear swap. Who has good stuff for sale?

I talked with the rangers yesterday and put an information page on the Washington Climbers Coalition website this morning. www.washingtonclimbers.org See link on front page.

I received a call from "security" indicating that someone in What-the-F*** in What-the-State was using my car number last week. Apparently, they made a charge within a half hour of when I did, here in Seattle 2500 miles away. They have computers looking for this kind of stuff. Thanks, bank! (I don't think I would have ended up paying for it but I wouldn't want to have to mess with the process of refuting a charge!)

I rarely participate in these "tribute" threads but this guy was tops. I'd like to say something touching or eloquent but that is really all there is to it. Stimson was often out there and if you climbed around here a lot you probably ran into him once in a while - at least in the last few years - and had a good interaction with the man. I'll miss him next time I don't see him for a while.

I met Lloyd and his wife and they were cool! Not only that, but their place was cool as well. I don't know how early it is snow-free but the Klipchuck Campground has always been my favorite of the Forest Service campgrounds in the area. It is on a south facing slope, away from the road, situated amid large pines, and relatively low on the east side of the pass. I've never favored the Early Winters campground because it is right next to the highway but I've camped there for early season ski trips and it might be a good choice for a ski-in because it is the first one to open. If the campgrounds don't work out, there's got to be somebody else with vacation property or maybe a back 40 in the area!

Yes, but the Pinnacles are near Dryden, not Peshastin. Maybe somebody thought "Dryden Dumplings" wasn't as appealing a name as "Peshastin Pinnacles."

Standoff on Classic Crack, posted by mattp 4/20/2009

Before anybody fires of letters to the PUD, I'd recommend a little more research. I don't disagree with the skepticism that is expressed above and I think Hulk is correct about the current road closure but the latest public documents from the PUD indicate that they intend to maintain the South Shore Road beyond the Static Point turnoff, whereas the prior proposal from the DNR was to close that road and close it even to mountain biking. Some information is found at www.washingtonclimbers.org. Select "Current Issues" and "Update re: Spada Reservoir Planning Process." I have not contacted anybody directly involved with long term planning regarding the Spada Reservoir area for over a year, but only relied upon public information. Additional inquiry into the long term management process and priorities would be welcome in my opinion.

My buddies are climbing on Sunday. Family points for me if I climb tomorrow instead. I'm looking for a generally moderate day.

Howza, posted by Mike Layton, October 23, 2004

In many ways, there is truth to this assertion. Certainly, NPR presents as "anti-establishment" or something like that when they present a package that is "alternative" to the traditional news media and often includes commentary critical of the government but on balance the overall NPR narrative clearly supports US governmental policy while proving that we are an "open" society which "allows" dissent. Take any of the major issues, whether it is the TARP program, the various war efforts, tax policy, or healthcare. We hear NPR commentators spew spirited critique from the left and the right but the bottom line is that the American way is right and our President has done right. Republicans complain that NPR is liberal media but, when they stole elections and invaded Iraq and outed Valerie Plame and ran up the deficit and trashed environmental regulation and allowed the banks to become "too big to fail" while deregulating them, NPR never really made it clear when our government was lying to us even though, some times at least, the lies were exposed but only in a way that listeners could easily walk away from the story dismissing the accusation of lying as wacko conspiracy theories of the left. Just as they didn't really present the deceptions of Bush or for that mater Clinton, I don't think they'll take on Obama, either. and while I admire lots of what he stands for I am afraid he's not all that different from the alternative; he'll use NPR just as his predecessors have and show that "this is America" and we tolerate dissent while he props up big money and does little or real benefit for the rest of us.

In some ways it may actually be better not to hide it under a rock. I don't know the biology or rotting poo in that environment but my guess is that it will stick around a lot longer if hidden under a rock. A better thing to do might be to stir it with some sand or dirt but then somebody is likely to step in your mess. Obviously, better yet would be to use blue bags and carry it home.

I think most of it has to do with the basic premise that the nations of the world must learn how to cooperate with each other and that the U.S. cannot simply dominate.

Greg: if you want to discuss the philosophical questions as to whether someone should climb Mt. Baker after heavy snows, do it elsewhere. Choada Boy started a thread on the Climber's Board for this purpose. We support those who want to contribute trip reports here and try to keep the trip reports forum for discussing climbs, posting pictures, and similar material. The ethical discussions or critique can take place in separate discussions.

Yes, Mr. Choada, it may be a worthy discussion. I have my doubts, but it could well prove "worthy." However: we have a very clear and nearly consistent policy for trip reports on this site. We discourage if not delete the kind of criticism and commentary that you and others may feel is compelling but which is not just critical but judgmental to the point of being rude toward the the original poster. (I realize you may disagree about the "rude" pronouncement but that is how I saw it.) Why do we do this? We actually want people to post trip reports without worrying that to do so is only an invitation to criticism. You may think it is your "responsibility" to "respond" when somebody posts something you think is not "responsible." I'm sorry, but we decided several years ago that trip reports should be respected and ethical discussions or arguments about judgment should generally take place elsewhere. As you've apparently figured out, we'll allow the discussion of whether it is appropriate to climb Mt. Baker after heavy snows or whatever that you may feel is important to take place .. within limits. I'm not a moderator of this "climber's board" forum, but I can assure you that if you want to discuss the rationale behind climbing major mountains after heavy snow you will be allowed to do so.