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Everything posted by mattp
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I spent two months in Thailand and Indonesia several years back, and we passed through Singapore but did not think there was much of interest there. It is a big city on a small island, with a lot of high rises and stuff. There is a nice botanical garden, but we didn't find near the interest there in the way of things like street vendors, temples, etc. that we found in, say Bangkok. We didn't visit the parks on the Malay Penninsula, not all that far from Singapore, but I bet these are pretty cool. Singapore has a diverse population, and a very strict set of social laws about such things as smoking or even spitting on the sidewalk. Don't get caught smuggling. There were backpacker-type guest-houses where you could stay pretty cheap.
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Quick question: has anybody who is participating in this conversation tried to ask Mr. Bertulis about this? Or anybody connected with the Film Festival?
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Was anybody able to attend this meeting? How 'bout a trip report?
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[TR] White Chuck Mountain- Northwest Ridge 11/28/2004
mattp replied to mattp's topic in North Cascades
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Overall, I'd see little reason you'd want to adopt Telemark technique for ski mountaineering because the AT gear skis better and the release mechanisms are better - offering greater safety in falls and in avalanches. However, Telemark bindings are better for crawling through the woods because you can pick up the tail of your ski without having to reach down and grab it with a ski pole. This is often a significant advantage when climbing over logs and crossing creeks on stepping stones and stuff like that.
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[TR] "A" peak, by Ellinor- Millimeters of Verglass 11/28/2004
mattp replied to wayne's topic in Olympic Peninsula
The two peaks can easily be connected via a shelf high in that back-side basin, too. You get more of a sense of being in the wilderness back there than if you traverse along the "front" side. Washington is an excellent winter climb. Both the SE Face (ramp) and the "standard" route make easy day climbs. -
[TR] "A" peak, by Ellinor- Millimeters of Verglass 11/28/2004
mattp replied to wayne's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Wayne- I think the easiest way to get into the cirque behind Ellinor and Washington might be to climb Ellinor and descend a gully down the backside, near the summit. The gully is prominent in this photo, from Eric Hoffman's TR. The road up the front side to the Mount Ellinor trailhead is well-maintained, and even in the winter you will often find a trail to the top. When the road is blocked by snow low down, you may find a reasonable shortcut up a wooded ridge (old timber) between the forks of Big Creek, avoiding about two miles of switchbacks. It may take a recon to figure this out. You seem to do well with the exposed-crappy-rock-poorly-protected kind of thing, so you might well like the traverse. I've tried it and never managed to stay actually on the crest for the entire way - and I have never heard of anybody else doing so. It occasionally rimes up in the Winter. -
Climb: White Chuck Mountain-Northwest Ridge Date of Climb: 11/28/2004 Trip Report: Today, I climbed White Chuck Mountain with my friend the HanMan. On this rare sunny day in the last weekend of November, we were treated with great views of all our favorite Darrington area crags (‘cept Exfoliation Dome), as well as views of just about every mountain between Mount Baker and Mount Rainier, with the Olympics to the west and Mount Stuart visible in the distant southeast. White Chuck is a spectacular peak and, though our feet were tired when we returned to the truck, it is a relatively easy objective even at this time of the year - a time of short days and generally sub-optimal snow conditions. The approach listed in the Beckey guide is out-dated. New roads reach very high on a satellite ridge NW of the Mountain, and though Mark's Jimmy only took us to about 4,000 feet, we were treated to a snowmobile track all the way up to 5,000 feet, and about a mile and a half northwest of the summit. The correct spur is an extension of road # 2435 that rund up an unnamed creek valley just southwest of the upper headwaters of Decline Creek, and ends up on a ridge above Conn Creek. You should have no trouble identifying it – if today is any indication. While we were climbing, it looked as if half the population of Snohomish County had been up there with every manner of snowmobile, quad, jeep and skis. The route beyond the road end is obvious: it follows a ridgecrest leading toward the NW peak of White Chuck and then drops slightly to traverse beneath the cliffs of the Northwest Peak and into a basin below the West face of the main peak. From here, we climbed the regular "Northwest Route" described by Beckey, in variable conditions mostly either sun-warmed slop over a raincrust, or a thin layer of unconsolidated snow on rock. Higher up, the snow slopes were hollow to the kick as the raincrust seemed to reverberate accross obvious wind-pillows. We gingerly picked our way along the ridge leading to the summit, traveling mostly on the very exposed benches overhanging the West face. A short bit of rime ice on rock added some spice. A few cornices offered another alpine challenge. The ridge was a little tedious due to the snow conditions, but it was worth it. At the summit, we saw a whole new collection of peaks off to the east, the HanMan pulled a thermos full of hot soup out of his pack and we gulped down a Red Bull. I took advantage of the calm conditions to fire a victory cigar, and then we crept downward once again. Though there had been quite a jamboree taking place in the clearcuts below, we never saw anyone else all day -- except one Christmas tree cutter headed down the road too slowly when we were in a hurry to get back to Darrington for some coffee and jo jo's at the Darrington City Hall gas station. It was a nice day in the mountains Gear Notes: Snowshoes, crampons, ice axe - for sure. We brought along a rope and a couple pieces of gear "just in case," but never used them. Approach Notes: Beckey's approach information is outdated. The current trailhead is not in the area between Conn and Black Oak Creek, but on a high ridge about a mile north and nearly a thousand feet higher - on the divide between Conn Creek and Decline Creek. Access is via Road 2435, NOT 2436. Also, the driving approach is made via Road 24 from the Sauk Prairie Road, and the not from the Road 22 along the Sauk River.
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For a ½ day trip, Big Four picnic ground is a drive-up destination with an extremely spectacular Cascade mountain wall right in front of you when you arrive at the parking lot. You can walk on the boardwalk over a beaver-dam swampy area and it looks "natural," and "wild" even if you can't see the mountain wall looming above. Then there is the river not far beyond, and you can hike up the most very easy trail to the ice caves to actually touch some snow and ice. It is cool and, if you are lucky, you'll get to see an avalanche. 1.5 hours' drive from Seattle. Mount Pilchuck will probably be both snowy and maybe icy too, but I bet the trail is stomped solid enough for relatively easy walking unless it snows the day before you go. This is a peak climb for the non-climber. If it is a decent day, I'd consider it (but run a search on nwhikers.net first, to check on trail conditions). Also 1.5 hours' drive from Seattle. If you want to go somewhere closer and easier, I'd go for Alpental, and hike up to Source Lake or the pass above it. It is not as spectacular as Lake Serene, and I've never been to Lake Annette, but it is an easy walk. 1 mile. Flat to a small climb. If you want to drive a little further, or maybe make a weekend jaunt of it, I'd go for Hurricane Ridge. If it is clear, you have one of the most spectacular views in the State. And you get to take a ferry to get there. Who knows, maybe you'll see baby Orca. Combine this with the beach at Rialto (a sampling of one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, in my opinion), and maybe a rainforest visit (N. Fork of the Quinault is my favorite for a casual visit but maybe I remember some roadway issues).
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I skied the regular E. Ridge route in February or March of a low snow year, and it was great. I would agree with those who suggest waiting until the snowpack builds up -- in midwinter we had dry ground up to just short of the boulderfield, and plenty of snowpack on the boulders and everywhere on up. Right now, you'd get good skiing higher up but it could be oh so much more fun with five feet more snow. However, you could easily climb that NW couloir in ski boots, so if you are headed up there anyway....
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An auto mechanic I spoke to when I was car shopping said the Outback is built on a more solid frame than the Forester and that, if I planned on driving on a lot of gravel roads, he expressed a strong preference for the Outback. Also, I can (barely) sleep in the back of the Outback, but not a Forester. However, the Forester DOES have a bit more head room and I believe it has 1/2" or 3/4" more clearance. One concern I have about the Outback is that the clearance around the wheels is very limited and I'm not sure I'll be able to use the chain-type tire chains I've bought (it is no big deal to use the cable type on highways - even better - but on unplowed logging roads the chain ones are much better).
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You may find it just a bit small if you are over 6 feet, in terms of head room and leg room, but the Outback is not a small vehical when it comes time to park it on a city street. I like mine, and I would echo much of what has been said above except to offer some clarification to Mr. Berdinka's remark about the logging roads: the Outback is a car, and it does not have the clearance of a 4 x 4 pickup, but it does OK on most logging roads that serve regular trailheads and in fact it rides very well on a washboard road and holds the gravel-covered road around the corners much better than my old 4x4 toyota pickup ever did. (I did drag and scratch the Subaru's plastic bumper on water bars on a Canadian logging road and there are places where I wouldn't even try to go, so I do not disagree with Mr. Berdinka but merely see some logging road plusses along with the minus).
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All those specialized attachments for shovels or wands or whatever are, well, specialized. If the compression straps are long enough (many are not), those and daisy's will cary whatever you want. Just move your cords or extra straps with buckle's to fit what you're carrying on the outside of the pack. (These cords or straps can easily be "fixed" to the pack so they don't fall off when you are using the shovel or whatever it is, making them just about as handy as the specialized attachments.)
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The main point anybody gets from a avalanche course is fear, Blake. Don't seek to become an "expert" so you can ski or climb without worry. A few years back I read somewhere that the most common profile for a backcountry skier killed in an avalanche was a male, with several years' experience and avalanche training. Consider, too, the high incidence of fatality among avalanche professionals. These victims had a sense of mastery. The fear, combined with a little bit of knowledge and some actual judgment, may keep you alive.
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Typical misstatement from our brothoer JayB, rewriting history in the quick tap of a couple keys. It is probably closer to the truth to say that Netanyahu was the single person most responsible for undermining the peace process. (Though this statement, too, is at best an oversimplification and I agree that Arafat's passing may now provide an opportunity for the parties to get back on track.)
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However, wasn't Cunning Stunt retrobolted by, or with the permission of, the FA?
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If that first pitch was wet, you probably would have found most of the rest of the route to be unsavory as well. Bush patches soak up the rain and ooze it back out for a day or three after the rain stops. Yesterday, the W. Buttress would have been fine with just a few bits of slickness here and there.
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Climb: Exfoliation Dome-Jacob's Ladder Date of Climb: 11/11/2004 Trip Report: On this fine summery Veteran's Day I went up to Exfoliation Dome with my friend Jay, intending to climb Jacob's Ladder and rappel the line that Subaru Primal Quest used for their race event, about 100-150 feet south of Jacob's Ladder. We ran out of time, but it was a nice day on the rock never-the-less. At this time of year, climbs on Exfoliation Dome can be a bit iffy. The Dome is a fairly large outing, and with short daylight hours, you are almost guaranteed to run into dew-covered rock as the dampness lingers an hour or two after sunrise, and sets in as much as an hour before sunset. Darrington granite offers amazingly good purchase even when wet, however, so those with a taste for this kind of think will do OK. We started up the "sidewalk" not long after daylight, and it was still very slimy for the first short climb out of the streambed approach (situation normal for all but the dry summer months). The rock was very cold up on the wall, and we elected to wait about an hour before tackling the crux pitch where numb fingers just aren't going to cut it for the thin edge crimping. I then spent some time cleaning a crack on this pitch and we moved a little slowly on the next two. Thus, we only completed six of the route's eight pitches before opting to retreat for a dash back down the sidewalk in failing light. I slipped and fell into a pool. The route was mostly dry and, as always, the views superb. I continue to wonder why so few climbers visit the area. Gear Notes: For the "Sidewalk" approach: approach shoes are nice, but not absolutely necessary; sneakers will do. For Jacob's Ladder: bring a "standard rack" up to 3" including tiny stoppers and small widgets; you don't need many or any doubles but you'll want the full selection. Long runners are useful, along with ten or twelve draws. Two ropes are needed for the rappels. Approach Notes: The Subaru Primal Quest race staff cut and dug a trail below the west face of Blueberry Hill; approaches to the routes north of Dark Rhythm still involve some funky scrambling but they are improved.
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There is an environmental assessment for some of the current gating, road and trail proposals for the Middle Fork, due out shortly. Call the North Bend ranger station to ask to be put on the mailing list for it. 425 434 6111. There is a group in Seattle who have been coordinating various recreational groups' comments, and their web page is here . I would like to put some discussion of some of this on our web page for the Washington Climbers Coalition, at washingtonclimbers.org. Wanna help?
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I have done quite a few climbs in my tele boots (T-2's) and I find them just fine for most of the standard winter climbs around here -- and they are not bad for lots of spring and summer mountaineering where I want to make a ski descent, either. They kick steps well, and hike fairly OK and, when I put Grivel Rambo crampons on them, they work fine on moderate mixed stuff and ice up to WI 4. They sure suck for rock climbing, though.
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The Middle Fork is going to be treated to a big remodel, with a private concessionaire to run a campground right below Mount Garfield, and a new roadway to be built for 13 miles from North Bend and paved. Gates will block the road up to the end of the valley. Hikers, horsepackers, mountain bikers and kayaker's have all participated in the planning process, but climbers have had little involvement. I'm afraid we've missed some opportunities here, but there is an ongoing planning process if somebody wants to get involved.
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Several years ago, I was skiing up on Granite Mountain in the Spring and got caught quite unaware of the hazard on a south facing slope where rocks and grass were showing through the surface in such profusion that I had no idea there was anything that could slab. Also, the snow that I was skiing on was pretty much bulletproof, and this gave me an even greater sense of security. However, I heard a loud crack as a hard slab released in a shallow gully that I hadn't even identified as a gully, and the slide ran several hundred feet to pile up blocks the size of file cabinets at the bottom. Had I been just a little more aggressively skiing the slope when it went off (I had met a patch of rocks I didn't like as I was skiing downhill and was slowly traversing onto the slab as it released from the tips of my skis forward - rather than skiing downhill at full speed and ending up on top of it), I would have been severely pummeled or killed. By the way, I'll add that there is plenty of good advice to be had here on cc.com. Obviously, nobody says you should take anonymous posters word for it when it comes to making your own life-or-death decisions, but it is equally dis-serving to suggest that one should not ask about such things on this site or that there is no value in asking about or discussing matters of safety.
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Roe V. Wade is history. Bush will see to that.