ryland_moore

The rangers were out "patrolling". They had climbed the S. Face and traversed over to descend the NE Ridge. Specialed, That was you? Damn, we could have reminisced longer about the Fairbanks chica at Denali basecamp last spring! Hope y'all had a good climb.

Anyone know any more details? Had two rangers come into our bivy at the Triumph col at about 1am Sunday morning and then got picked up by a heli there at 5am Sunday morning to be flown over. Initial info. was the guy had broken ankle in two places and other injuries but no other details. ANyone know who this was? A solo climber? Outcome? Hope he was alright.

ALready planning on replacing some of the old with new if it looks bad and cut away excess crap. Are new rap rings needed as well or just webbing? I hear that other descent is fast too, as it was discussed in a post last year or so with specific beta (ClimbHigh?), but it requires two ropes for sure.

What are the pros and cons to using one rope vs. two on the NE Ridge for the descent? Since you can't rap down into the knotch/gulley with one rope, where is the preferred rap direction? We are a party of 2 trying to move fast and light. Benefits to one vs. two ropes and vice versa? Thanks!

I assumed most people did not take spikes late in the season, maybe an axe, because the approach is not too difficult except the moat on the ascent, and by the time you descend it will be all slushed up. No?

Parts of it did, but the local gear shop can fill you in. There are hundreds of climbs up there at different aspects and elevations. It is not like SMith with lines of sport routes in one central area.

If you practice setting a T- anchor with your axe while holding your partner, you will see that it is not impossible. Once you are able to get your partner onto an anchor system and free yourself so you can set up an additional anchor and set up the pulley system, you can actually lift someone with a 6:1 ratio using a Z-C pulley system.

Mount Lemmon in the morning up high is not too terribly bad. Obviously it doews get hot as hell up there during the summer. You can find a guidebook to it in local gear stores. There has been some extensive roadwork going on up there the last few years so see what is going on and have fun!

BlueWater also made a pink harness with light blue stripe in the middle with lizards. That was made up until the mid-90's I believe.

Was the ice tool necessary this time of year for either the glacier crossing or descent down Cascadian?

She knows that if I don't get out soon, my head will explode!

Partner scored.

Normal partners are either off climbing in amazing places, just got back and are too tired, or other issues. Looking to do an easy to moderate (5.6-5.8ish) alpine route or cragging this weekend. Can meet at the TH or elsewhere Friday night and have all day Saturday and SUnday Open. Willing to drive. Possibilities could be Triumph, Cutthroat, WA Pass, Squamish, etc. Ridge climbing a plus, simul climbing even better. PM me if interested.

Check your PMs

Shapp, sorry if I came across a little strong. Just that there is no way to open the area just to climbers. He is placing a conservation easement over the property, but public access will only be during the conservancy's tours of the property. So, climbing will still be allowed. There is no ban on climbing during raptor nesting, just an understood one. And yes, the Fender's blue is on top of mount baldy up high like I posted in my original message.

From KGW.com:

Whoever it is, I hope the climber is o.k.

You still climb at the Crux don't ya?

Timmay, How about 2 weeks after l-worth? If L-worth rope up is in September, then it still may be fairly hot early september. Mid October?

Watch out! HEre we go again! Somebody tell Beck it's Dave's turn to plan! Beck you had your chance last year with the Beckfest Rain-a-thon and you blew it!

Shapp, your attitude is the reason why more areas are not open. Assuming that everyone's private property is your personal firehydrant is the wrong attitude. The rock really isn't that great, does offer climbing close to town, and I had no problem only going when invited by one of the regular climbers. I bet you'd feel a little differently if you had your own piece of property where you were having things stolen, equipment messed with, and defamation of cliff and trees, and dealing with tresspassers. Insurance is a serious issue as well. If you know the background of the owners, then you would understand, in this litigious society, what a lawsuit could do to the family if someone fell or was injured. Much bigger issue then saying they should just go ahead and let anyone climb there. Until you actually know what it costs to maintain and police even a small park, which I do, I think you'd better focus on other more important issues. Finally, the owners are not climbers, just his friends and their friends are and he is kind enough to allow some people up there. Instead of turning it into a park, they are in the process of turning it into a preserve, as there is an endangered species of butterfly called the Fender's blue on Mount Baldy. He is doing something generous with the property, it just may not be for climbing. Plus, The Access Fund has very little money and spends its resources on only the most threatened areas in the country. But, I guess you would already know that if you were a member.

MegaMan, Coburg Caves are up the McKenzie as the Coburg Hills wrap around. Do not tresspass as they will prosecute. Find someone who has permission to be up there and go as a guest. Don't be an idiot and try and sneak in. You will be caught as the people with permission climb out there pretty much daily. If you want some awesome bouldering talk to the people at the Crux about the Sweet Home boulders. Plenty of opportunity for first ascents too.

Seen in the parking lot of the hotel during the Springfield Loggers Convention: "Earth First, We'll log the rest of the planets later."

Way to go Mike and Mark! Mike you're turning into a first ascent snob!!!!!!!!!

Or how about an enchantments trip with Colchuck NE Buttress, Serpentine Arrete, complete N. Ridge of Stuart - descending the glacier and back to Colchuck Lake, then heading up over Asgaard Pass and hitting up W. Ridge/S. Face of Prussik? That would be a sweet week-long trip. Ptarmigan Traverse hitting up every major peak on the route? 5-7 days? Props for early season with skis.