ryland_moore

I should have known it was a frenchman wearing pink tights! Although I am sure some of the First Ascentionists (American) are very ashamed of the things they used to wear back in the 8 ts and early 90's out at Smith!!!! Sorry I will miss it Mike!

I guess we can expect lines for climbs out at Banks Lake this weekend!!!!

I heard this film was amazing. A few friends saw it at the train depot in Terrebonne a few weeks back. Question, it does not highlight East Face of the Monkey in the flyer, but I assume that is Watts on East Face in the flyer photo? Also, is the East Face highlighteed in the film at all? Hope this comes to PDX.

I heard about this as well. I hope the locals will come together and chop this. Rumor has it, the bolts were placed by Chuck Burr. When I talked to my buddy from T-ride about it, he said that Chuck Burr, if it is the same one, owns some crazy enviro-friendly house up at over 11k elevation and it uses all solar heating and is designed to capture sun in the winter and shade in the summer. Sounds like Burr is some wealthy, trust funder who is just like every other trustafarian pretending to do one thing (be an eco-warrior), then turn around and do something stupid like this. Supposedly he is a realtively beginner climber and has only lived in T-ride for a short time. Hopefully the locals will lynch him and put a stope to detroying one of the classic ice lines in North America....

316.7....

Kola, maybe helping out Fos1 would be a good thing to do since you already have made contact with relatives. Also, if you now know his name, then another report to the local police and internet police may be in order? Can we stap a-holes like this from getting on this site? Obviously not the first time this has happened.....Also, posting his real name would be beneficial even if he is using aliases to help others in the future...

Were you with your son and O. Engineering sign on the sides? I tink we talked about seeing your rig on Boradway in downtown Couv? Anyway, they did eventually open the gates, but sounds like you still got in there and the conditions didn't change too much from the day before. In other words you didn't miss anything by heading home Saturday.....

I'll upload them tonight when I get back....

No, we were all from Portland. We talked to the group from Seattle though. My buddy was driving a black chevy with studs. We got the DClimber's bivy lot wbout 7am. Sorry I missed ya!

Trip: Mount St. Helens - Worm FLows Date: 12/2/2006 Trip Report: Headed up the Worm FLows yesterday. Got to the Climber's Bivy at 7am to find the gate closed. Called the day before and they said the gate was open and plowed all the way to Marble Mountain. Made some friends with some slednecks who said that the Forest Service was going to be there around 9am. SHitty, becasue the guy plowing the road was telling the sledders one thing but the skiers another. He was telling skiers that the gate would not open until late this afternoon. So, alot of skiers either left or headed into the Climber's bivy (about 5 miles of slog). The gate opened around 8:30am and we were on the trail from Marble Mt. by 9am. The snow was awesome and fluffy in the trees and we were breaking trail for a large portion of the way in. It was about 4-5 ft. deep. We broke out above treeline under clear skies and very little wind. Awesome day to be up there. There were about 15 other skiers heading up various routes. Started our decent around 3pm. It was a little windier higher up which caused an icy breakable crust to form, which also sucked for skiing. There was great snow lower down and we made it back out to the car around 4pm. Awesome day in the sun. Made me forget for a little while that we were in the Pacific Northwest approaching winter. ALso made me forget about the previous month of rain.... Gear Notes: tranceivers, shovel, probe poles, skis, stoke, sunscreen and sunglasses

Sent PM

I doubt anything solid is in. The only reason it looked cool out there was because of the frozen rain last night. Temps are above freezing now and will be all tonight and tomorrow. It may get barely below freezing Friday night but then not again for a while. Like said earlier, maybe good mixed climbing, but nothing to hold a screw for sure....

I like the way you think! I've already got three days in so far this winter and I think its making me snow-crazy. That and the thought of spending the entire month of January in Oklahoma for work. Kill me now. I hear they have frozengrain silos to ice climb in!!!

Thanks Gene. I am sorry if it came off as casual. I guess what I was saying about the West Butt is if you stay put like you should, then there is very little chance (there is still a slim chance though) of getting caught unaware. I may be bold to say that 90% of all frostbite victims are from those pushing up when they should have stayed put or gone out in weather they should not have. There are exceptions to lost mittens or a quick lenticular coming up that will last 12 to 24 hrs., but with the aid of climbing rangers and access to weather reports both on the mountain and off, a large storm (2-4 days) should not catch anyone unaware except in the freakest of instances. If you are more worried about it, go later in the season in end of June-early July. I like earlier because colder air is typically more stable than the snow dumps you can get there in June. Finally, the mountain makes its own rules and will generate its own weather, so trying to predict the best and warmest time to go is next to impossible. Go with what works for you. If you own the Artis Expe, then take them out on a cold night up on the Muir snowfield and see how they feel. Play with AT boots if you want to ski. Test gear and talk to others. Call guides and see what they recommend for clients. You really will only know the answer to your question once you've tested everything and see what makes you feel comfortable and what you want. I didn't feel like I need the OneSPorts or similar set-up. ANd yes, I will use my Koflachs from time to time in the early spring and winter on Hood, so they do get used more than just once every couple of years on bigger climbs. Gene is right though, son't get complacent with this mountain as it will turn on you, just be prepared and do not look at the camp social scene as meaning this is an easy climb....

You can always go up on Hood! Maybe these low temps coming in will help around the 3-5k' elevation, but rarely anything freezes. Look on this web for Strawberry Mountains ice climbing (usually need a snowmobile or a long day or xc skiing to get back there) or there is ice in the Wallowas (5 hrs.) Mt. Hood sometimes gets flows coming off the rocks near Cooper Spur, but probably snowed in by now. Portland, an ice climbing mecca, it is not....

Ditto what catbird said. I took my Koflach Artic Expe's up on Denali and had a great time with them. I also wore Denali AT boots lower on the mountain and had no problem with temps and this was in mid-May. I used the 40 below K2 Superlights on summit day and was fine. It can get cold, but you can just buy Intuition liners for any double plastic boot and will be warm enough for the trip. I do not think you have to go for the Onesports unless you plan on climbing a lot of high altitude peaks in the near-future. As long as you are safe and not hangng out in 50-70 mph winds in a big storm, and decide to wait out the weather, you should not have too many problems. Being smart and not pushing it in deteriorating weather can save a lot of fingers and toes, much more so than double plastic boots. And assuming you are doing the West Butt, it is nexto to impossible to get caught out in a serious storm without some warning, so the majority of frostbite victims on that route occur from people pushing too hard, not staying hydrated, and improper equipment (ie. super gaiters instead of overboots, gloves instead of mittens) Good luck....For what it is worth, my partner climbed to the summit in his AT boots with Intuition liners and overboots and had no problems. Just remember, it is always easier to have feet too hot, then feet that are too cold. Also, do not forget to get a boot that fits LARGE! You will need room for your feet to swell at altitude. Get at least a 1/2 size larger. Mine are 1 ful1l size larger and they are perfect for me over 16k or so. If you get boots too constrictive (same as clothing) you are more suseptible to frostbite and other cold injuries.

I was down there for a wedding and climbed at Mt. Lea mon. May be tough to get to as they do get snow up there, but good sport climbing right off the road. There is a guidebook for the area and a free handout if you go to some outdoor store down there, but can't remember the name. Call one of the local gear shops.

I'll sell an old pair of Silveretta 404s with late 90's alpivne skis for less than $100. Make me an offer. They are awesome for approach skis, fairly short. My buddy used them on Denali for the slog up to 14k. They are a little tough learning to ski in mountaineering boots but I got pretty good at it after a while. PM me if interested.....

AN even better one at Smith is a "king swing" off of the platform across from Monkey Face with anchors in the mouth of the monkey or just above the short 5.5 pitch. Just jump off the diving board across from the mouth and hold on!

Especially Duke's. I have it shipped out from the South monthly. Will eat it by the spoonful.....

You're about 3 years too late for that one, Kev! Bone, welcome back. How's the climbing gym business treating ya? My best to the missus.....

'Tis better to be too much than not enough. if you are investing in these mitts for the first time, get something you can use back home. Yeah, it gets a little cold on Aconcagua up high, but when I went, I never even cracked them out until I was a 17k and using an axe. Up to that, I just used fleece gloves. That said, there can be some terrible storms up there where it gets really cold, but unless you plan to climb Denali in the next couple of years or maybe the Himalayas you may want something more substantial like the OR mitt, but go with something medium range. As an aside, some of the medium weight mitts cost almost as much as say the OR mitt for~$100. The gloves I used on Aconcagua would not have worked on my Denali clip. Alos, I love the OR mitts. Burly, but really warm.

O.K. after watching the trailer for theFirst Ascent video, I am definitely heading to the Rel Rock show as I saw PW last year and it was a lot of guys hucking themsewlves off cliffs on tele. I can do that without skis on! I def. couldn't do a single digit lock off in a crack on a 130 degree overhang though.........Either way, should be a fun weekend between the films and those heading to the ice fest or Rope Up.

Anyone going to one of these tomorrow night? Reel Rock Film Tour with Klem Loskot at Hollywood Theatre and Power Whore06 at Kennedy School........ http://www.reelrocktour.com/ http://www.powderwhore.com/film.html Choies, choices, choices.........

Hey John, if you are going to make a nice poster with sponsors names on them for the Ice Festival, you may want to spell the companies' names correctly!!!! Or at least check for typos before sending stuff to publications like Willamette Week...... Have fun. I will be at a wedding in new Haven, CT so will not be able to attend. Where is that drytooling pic from under the bridge?