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Everything posted by Dru
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next time read before you post expect crowds! [ 07-10-2002, 03:45 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]
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quote: Originally posted by Stefan: I stay out of the spray forum becuase I don't understand the concept of "spray". But when I looked today, holy cow--15 pages on one topic. So I guess this must be a hot topic. Can someone please explain to me what is the concept of "spray"? I really don't understand. Really. Do you people just joke around or do you try to belittle others? I really don't understand, and I find the thread confusing. Are you claiming that your other 156 posts are all meaningful content? that would be a 156/157 =0.994 content level - you are Ivory Soap Pure!!!
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quote: Originally posted by sk: some one once told me that more than a handful is a waste suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuure "whatever you got is good"
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you cant walk off bellygood until the falcons are done nesting on it matt... however if you are gonna aid U wall then roman chims can be aided too at similar grade... if you are gonna free UW then likewise roman chims will be no problemo... or you can just rap off (need 2 ropes 55m +60m) via Uncle Bens - but I think Bens is falcon-closed right now so that is a no no too just do the Chimneys!!!
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quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by sk: now that's good support definitely! though it's not such a "big" task in my case ... are you saying your jugs are crimps?
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quote: Originally posted by erik: WERD! KIRE!!!
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i hear DMM now makes dyneema thongs for when you run out of draws
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I got this email from some dude who must love the KTK... "Hi, admire your enthusiasm (and your welding skills! is that your art?) anyway, just wanted to comment on your name...the Klan theme and its white supremacist references are just too evil to be amusing, and would be downright painful to some. you'd serve your club better to get something else. cheers, Bob" See what you started Lambone!!!
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What about pictures of some dude from the 50s bouldering out the startof a hard climb in his hiking boots
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quote: Originally posted by erik: i just completed my new guidebooks for the entire world. here's the beta: find pic of mtn. lust of over pic. choose partner and agree upon style of ascent. get there. smoke bowl hike into mtn. smoke bowl climb up mtn. smoke bowl drink beer. descend. drink beer. smoke bowl go home. smoke bowl spray! they are on sale now. email for exact costs.
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quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: Dru, Just because I'm posting at 2:35 in the morning makes me an insomniac? I go to bed (couch actually) every night as soon as the case of beer is gone. "Alive people are almost always smarter than dead people." Dennis Einstein is dead, smart guy.
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quote: Originally posted by mvs: Yes, it usually is a more rewarding climb when you didn't read about it, found the way on your own. First ascents are more fun than reinventing the wheel thrashing up a tourist route. Lots of people read the guidebook and still have adventures... they come up to you and ask where the obvious gully is, having walked right by it 10 times. I myself have driven up decrepit old logging spurs and thrashed instead of following the obvious new road leading towards the peak because a journal article so instructed me. Turned out the guy who wrote it confused east with west and was on the other side of the mountain. Duh.
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"the descent is convoluted and time consuming and many parties not already familiar with it have gotten off-route and endured forced bivouacs. The snafflehounds here are particularily ferocious." [ 07-10-2002, 11:10 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]
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quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by Dru: So has Beckey climbed every route on every peak in the Cascades? Anyone can copy topos from someone else's book. Then claim to be an expert. Here is the beta for Chestbeater Direct on Horsecock Spire. Begin at unclimbable overhang. Turn it on left via mixed free and aid moves into an open book then climb up obvious gully to a small shrub. Belay then launch into a series of tenouous but well protected mantleshelves to a double monodoight undercling. Move left, slinging horsecocks with spare slings, to a roche moutonee, and climb slabs andcracks up short walls to a great gash. Worm into gash and belly crawl downwards until a belay can be arranged with difficult protection. The next lead is best avoided. Four similar pitches on looser rock complete this classic excursion. Best done after sbnow melts but before bug season. Take a large rack and kletterschue.
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So has Beckey climbed every route on every peak in the Cascades?
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take your bong instead for muir on saturday. [ 07-10-2002, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]
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Small, medium, large generally refers to number of pieces you take. Like for a mostly 4th class ridge you might take a "small rack" of a half set of nuts and a few hexes or 3 Camalots. A large rack would be double set of nuts and cams and some other stuff like pins and tricams and whatnot. A standard rack seems to vary by location. Most guidebooks give an example in the intrioduction. For alpine rock routes i usually take set o' nuts, 1 full set of cams from ) TCU up to #3 Camalot, 6 tri cams, and a dozen shoulder-length slings with biners. I will only take a big piece like #4 camalot if specifically told to or of there might be big wide cracks like on a first ascent of unknown ground. cause it sucks to have to back off. If it refers to size it would be "take a thin rack" meaning you need lots of finger sized pieces but no big stuff. Dont forget to take horsecock.
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Is this what you guys did last night instead of pub club?
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I think Ray Borbon shoul d write a guide to selected routes of Da Toof. Sure to be a Mountaineers Best Seller. The nice thing about that Kearney selected guide is that he's done every climb in it. Oh yeah and the description of Burdo "hanging on an overhanging finger crack with one hand and scrubbing lichen from it with the other" while leading in the Wine Spires. Why aren't there Beer Spires?
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Dennis, do you suffer from insomnia? It may be 'male menopause' causing that. Talk to your doctor (or your parole officer - some of them know lots of interesting facts).
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I never met the guy but he put up a hell of a lot of routes and made a serious contribution to Washington climbing, that is for sure.
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izznt there a self help book called "chicken bolt for the soul?"
