Dru

more current bugabbos beta on the mesage board at www.live-the-vision.com they are all alberta climbers so takes enthusiastic raves about good rock with a few grains of salt.

drive to slesse creek bridge and look for the cliff band on the other side of the road from the 500 fishermen and kayakers.

quote: Originally posted by philfort: quote:Originally posted by Goat Boy: Where can one find a map of the cave system? Does it change significantly from year to year? The book "Challenge of Rainier" has a very basic map of the caves (and a whole chapter devoted to them). There's a good story about the furry alien beings that live in them. Furry alien beings like hounds or what? [ 08-07-2002, 01:58 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: That was funny, Mr. Radon and partner had "Boeing Sucks" written on all their gear. But I will say you two were hardcore ascending in crappy weather when everyone else was hunkered down in their tents. We met quite a few of those folks as they came down, after successfully spending many-a-night in crappy weather, but no summit. What a cool trip it must have been going down rescue gully. We saw a couple of people on that line on our 13,5 cache day. Our trip to 14 brought us to one russkie putting in fixed line at windy corner. Just shy of the 14 camp, we saw a couple of the climbers on their ski-chairs descending and we all grunted to each other in pig-latin, each trying to understand the other's language. A thumb's up and a smile seemed to work best for the both of us. That's also where I met a team of three descending, female at the lead. She whips out her funnel, starts fiddling with her crotch zippers and fabric...all the while engaging me in conversation at 15 feet or so...and begins her pee fest. Holy moly, that woman's been on the mountain a little tooooo long. I left your book at our Ski Hill cache, it's somewhere in Talkeetna now. The three others on my team weren't related, we're all just part of the Boealps. They summitted on the 24th while I was down at 11 killing time. They had about the same summit weather as you did, from what they tell me. Whiteout, following wands. Quite different on our day. The rangers, pj's, and quite a few guided teams all headed out en-mass to the summit. Pig Hill sucked the big one too. Only because it was such a nice day did I decide to go for the true summit. Drank some colt 45 or whatever the west rib calls that beer they have. maybe she wanted to give you a golden shower??

quote: Originally posted by gschryer2: Note to self: Don't EVER let your kids be in ... similar yokel organization! Da Mounties???

and so studly too !!!! look at da hairy chest!!!

From an email originating from Tami Knight (www.tamiknight.com) The author, describes himself in part : The taking risk can be simply financial: large miser to take down the gold mine with can be the risk all to lose. But you reassure, it did not die there of man. Simply values hardware which leave in smoke. That can also result in the ridiculous one by taking the risk to receive tomatos in full figure. There is no way I could ever expand on this so in addition to M. Robert's most erudite climbing 'dictionary' below rendered in best engrish.... I direct you to his astonishing site alain website Read and weep as we here have done. Cheers and howls Phil and Tami -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DICTIONARY OF THE CLIMBING A-vue: to carry out a way in first of cord without to have recognized the movements beforehand, i.e. to discover the catches at the time to seize them and find the best solution to arrive at the node. After-work: opposite of the with-sight. It is a question of working the movements in a way, often to the maximum of the level of climbing, to include/understand and memorize the sequence which he will have to carry out at the time of his realization in good style, i.e. using only the catches available. Artif: contraction of the " artificial " word. This type of climbing, the ancestor of the free climbing, was particularly used before 1970 when the goal of the climbing-mountaineer was only to arrive at the node of a cliff, even at the price of a vice of hardware (pitons, hooks, clamps, coinceurs...) enabling him to progress while using artifices. Sociologiquement, one speaks about "function" (to arrive at the node), the free climbing being the form (to put the style at it). Acid lactic: result polluting of the work of the muscles, with the image of the carbon dioxide emitted by the spark-ignition engines. To strong amount, a badly involved body does not manage to evacuate it (one speaks about threshold of resistance), which causes the stop of the muscular function, aches, etc. Vat: large catch allowing to recover. Bidouiller: to manage to cross a delicate passage by using an aesthetic or particularly complicated method not very on the gestural level. Bottle: to have the bottles, it is to have the inflated front armlevers of lactic acid, i.e. to be with its muscular stress limit. Bourriner: to make speak the power with the detriment about the technique. Goal : to take a goal, it is not to manage to cross a section, i.e. to fall or désescalader. Slipper: shoe particularly designed for the climbing and which presents two characteristics: the slipper must be particularly about the foot to be precise on the small catches, but contrary to the preconceived ideas, its sole smooth, is provided with a gum tender and resined, in order to be able to adhere to the maximum, the image tires used Formula 1 of them. Pork rind: short but difficult way. Hook: technique of the foot where it is not a question of pushing on a catch, but to draw above, either by lower part with the point of the slipper, or over by posing the heel. Crux: the most difficult passage of the way. Continuity: autonomy. Capacity to endure the lactic acid, to recover. Dülfer: name of a German mountaineer who invented this particularly effective technique in crack. They are by a set of oppositions (the feet push perpendicular to the crack whereas the hands draw in the other direction) to create a kind of keystone. Engagement: says itself of a way where the points of insurance are very distant, without being particularly dangerous. Engagement is calculated according to the supposed length of the fall for the climbing assured ones, but in the case of climbing in solo, it is the taking risk, i.e. the margin between the climbed way and the level of climbing, the fall being inevitably crippling. Exposure: known as of the taking risk of climbing encordé in a way where the quality of the points of insurance (even the spacing or aspect of the ground) would generate a physical risk. The climbing in solo is logically the paroxysm of the exposure. Exploded: éreinté, with the muscular stress limit. Sleeving: capacity to contract the muscles of the trunk in order to push as well as possible on the catches of the feet, mainly in the pouring or overhanging ways. Gas: name given to the vacuum surrounding the climbing one, air becoming like palpable. Glaucous: says itself of a fatty catch or a dirty way. Drip of water: says itself of small a catch in the shape of hollow cut by the streaming of water. Jeté: to make a jeté, or to throw, means to carry out a dynamic movement, therefore random, to seize a distant catch. One could imagine the difference between the concept of statics or dynamics by taking the example of a water bottle: if it is posed on a table, statics, nothing easier than to seize it. If it falls, to catch up with it with the flight proves more complicated because the movement is dynamic. Free: one speaks about free climbing, or sporting climbing, when one is not useful oneself of the hardware in place (pitons, etc.) that for the insurance. No artificial rest or material aid is accepted. It is it contrary of the artificial climbing. Magnesia: to take magnesia, also used by the gymnastes to drain the hands and to obtain a better adherence, remains the gesture fetish for the free climbing. Mono-Finger, Bi-Fingers, Tri-Fingers: catch where one can use one finger, or two, or three. Moulinette: to carry out a way while being ensured since the top of cliff, i.e. without being useful themselves of the cord like means of progression, but by removing any risk of fall. Morphological: says itself of a movement where the two only catches are particularly distant, making the passage much more difficult, even sometimes unrealizable for the small ones. Lead: to take a lead, it is to fall, of one meter or thirty meters, but while being ensured by a cord. Relay: last point of insurance, often doubled, located at the node of a way. Bag with pof: there small bag filled with magnesia, placed at the level of the belt in order to be able to plunge the hands regularly. Solo: climbing " with naked hands ", without cord nor hardware of insurance. Ultimate climbing for some since the error shows death. Block: to be with the block, i.e. in very bad posture. Often precede a lead. Cowherd: autoassurer with a strap or a cord on a piton. Bolt: in climbing, certain cracks make it possible to lock the fingers, the fists or the feet, by a simple mechanical effect of jamming. Zipper: to slip of the feet, but to catch up with themselves.

"why can't i bring my gun into Canada?"

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I'd like to check it out. Can you give me some info on how to get there? drive along the highway, stop at sign saying hope next 4 exits (about 4km past hunter creek). walk back along road to trail, hike in to huge boulders visible from the road. climb. this is post 5500

inappropriate use of greamlins is bad i like snafflehounds this whole thread makes me mad its funny when people rap off the end of their ropes and dye hoarsecock can never be misspellt get it?

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Which reminds the Doctor of the time he was lurking with some hardpersons over near Churning at Smith, and the group's attention was drawn to a pair over at the Peanut. They were toproping one of the 5.8's, and the belayer, rather than standing in one place and taking in rope, had the brilliant, groundbreaking idea to simply lock off the device and walk backwards in a plumb line down the hill, thus reeling in the rope. DFA recalls the moron being subsequently mobbed by disbelieving onlookers, and thoroughly chastised for being a threat to public safety and Smith's trail system. sounds like the Russian Belay system popular in the Crimea.

I soloed up the NE buttress of the west lion (low 5th class)and encountered a party on top that had roped up to come up the standard route (3rd class). one of them turned to his buddy and said "we should have come up his way, you don't need ropes for that!"

you can make wine out of dandelions.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Dru: Bonus to anyne who tells me what the original headline said! "Pope Tells Youth Trad Climbing is Hella Evil" weak

whenever im on a busy trail i like to ask the people i pass stupid questions to pass the time and see the funny looks they give hiking in to garibaldi lake: "How much further to the Lions?" hiking in to the lions: "What time does the gondola close?" hiking in to snow lakes: "Is the ice cream stand still open?" Coming down the Chief trail. Guy asked me if I had just 'climbed up the front': "There's a front to this thing?"

quote: Originally posted by James: quote:Originally posted by Dru: by the way have you ever been up the North Face of Shuksan? no i have not... should i feel i was hoping you could make a statement about the horrible bush up there

dude was photographed soloing 13c so if anybody could do it probably he could. i say wait for 2nd ascent of the route and see what they say. there do seem to be problems with his story and to his credit he did not go back with a compressor drill and bolt his way up!

quote: Originally posted by James: quote:Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by James: quote:Originally posted by trask: So, what's your point, James? i don't think its funny to jest about someone rapping off the ends of their rope. many people have died doing this... i guess i'm just uptight right jad? you are fully uptight dude, the point of the graemlin is to remind you not to fuck up! gee, like i needed you to explain that to me. thanks dru, you are a true scholar.yeah straight A's. but maybe, you should have checked out the website Iain scooped that gremlin from, before you got all hoity toity about it... by the way have you ever been up the North Face of Shuksan?

quote: Originally posted by James: quote:Originally posted by trask: So, what's your point, James? i don't think its funny to jest about someone rapping off the ends of their rope. many people have died doing this... i guess i'm just uptight right jad? you are fully uptight dude, the point of the graemlin is to remind you not to fuck up!

well the black dyke still requires gear... there is no route on the chief that is a pure multipitch sport route - either runouts are too large (eg. war of the raptors, rock loggers etc.) or you need to place gear. hell even cerberus needs gear for the flake and approach. Star Chek in Cheakamus Canyon is a 3 pitch 5.8 sport route with nice views of the canyon though. Fred Beckey likes it so much he's done it 3 times!

i read somewhere about a japanese woman that fell into a crevasse on the khumbu using the ladder system. well the ladder bent and pinched her in half!! (story probably BS but what if it did happen )

hell ya - dont buy the generic marker in the store ($0.69) buy the officially approved CE certified EDELRID ROPE MARKER for $25. the extra $24.31 goes to a very nice Edelrid sticker pasted over the generic label.

Bonus to anyne who tells me what the original headline said!

but those aren't alpine. did you know there is a UIAA resolution that peaks over 2500 meters should be a bolt free zone?