Dru

quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: Dru, Just because I'm posting at 2:35 in the morning makes me an insomniac? I go to bed (couch actually) every night as soon as the case of beer is gone. "Alive people are almost always smarter than dead people." Dennis Einstein is dead, smart guy.

quote: Originally posted by mvs: Yes, it usually is a more rewarding climb when you didn't read about it, found the way on your own. First ascents are more fun than reinventing the wheel thrashing up a tourist route. Lots of people read the guidebook and still have adventures... they come up to you and ask where the obvious gully is, having walked right by it 10 times. I myself have driven up decrepit old logging spurs and thrashed instead of following the obvious new road leading towards the peak because a journal article so instructed me. Turned out the guy who wrote it confused east with west and was on the other side of the mountain. Duh.

"the descent is convoluted and time consuming and many parties not already familiar with it have gotten off-route and endured forced bivouacs. The snafflehounds here are particularily ferocious." [ 07-10-2002, 11:10 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by Dru: So has Beckey climbed every route on every peak in the Cascades? Anyone can copy topos from someone else's book. Then claim to be an expert. Here is the beta for Chestbeater Direct on Horsecock Spire. Begin at unclimbable overhang. Turn it on left via mixed free and aid moves into an open book then climb up obvious gully to a small shrub. Belay then launch into a series of tenouous but well protected mantleshelves to a double monodoight undercling. Move left, slinging horsecocks with spare slings, to a roche moutonee, and climb slabs andcracks up short walls to a great gash. Worm into gash and belly crawl downwards until a belay can be arranged with difficult protection. The next lead is best avoided. Four similar pitches on looser rock complete this classic excursion. Best done after sbnow melts but before bug season. Take a large rack and kletterschue.

So has Beckey climbed every route on every peak in the Cascades?

take your bong instead for muir on saturday. [ 07-10-2002, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

Small, medium, large generally refers to number of pieces you take. Like for a mostly 4th class ridge you might take a "small rack" of a half set of nuts and a few hexes or 3 Camalots. A large rack would be double set of nuts and cams and some other stuff like pins and tricams and whatnot. A standard rack seems to vary by location. Most guidebooks give an example in the intrioduction. For alpine rock routes i usually take set o' nuts, 1 full set of cams from ) TCU up to #3 Camalot, 6 tri cams, and a dozen shoulder-length slings with biners. I will only take a big piece like #4 camalot if specifically told to or of there might be big wide cracks like on a first ascent of unknown ground. cause it sucks to have to back off. If it refers to size it would be "take a thin rack" meaning you need lots of finger sized pieces but no big stuff. Dont forget to take horsecock.

Is this what you guys did last night instead of pub club?

I think Ray Borbon shoul d write a guide to selected routes of Da Toof. Sure to be a Mountaineers Best Seller. The nice thing about that Kearney selected guide is that he's done every climb in it. Oh yeah and the description of Burdo "hanging on an overhanging finger crack with one hand and scrubbing lichen from it with the other" while leading in the Wine Spires. Why aren't there Beer Spires?

Dennis, do you suffer from insomnia? It may be 'male menopause' causing that. Talk to your doctor (or your parole officer - some of them know lots of interesting facts).

I never met the guy but he put up a hell of a lot of routes and made a serious contribution to Washington climbing, that is for sure.

izznt there a self help book called "chicken bolt for the soul?"

doesnt Dennis Harmon sound a lot like Dumbass Human if you say it fast?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: duh what do i know. computers are strange beasties I do know that if you rearrange the phrase PRESIDENT CLINTON OF THE USA you can get HE FINDS INTERNS TO COPULATE. Try it yourself and see. I just found out it makes TOOTH SPIRIT USE FEED A CLAN too!!. The meaning is obvious

"quality or quantity quality or quantity the choice we have to make!"

duh what do i know. computers are strange beasties I do know that if you rearrange the phrase PRESIDENT CLINTON OF THE USA you can get HE FINDS INTERNS TO COPULATE. Try it yourself and see. [ 07-09-2002, 03:16 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

Iznt there a Disney movie in which hordes of innocent snafflehounds were pushed off a cliff during a faked migration sequence? Lets declare the snafflehound endangered, like the iceworm, so us climbers can get jobs studying the populations of them beasts. "UMMM yes boss I feel the need to go camp in the Enchantments for a week to research the endangered snafflehounds. I will look for them on the south face of Prussik and the Mt Temple ridge which I hear is prime habitat."

the victory of volume over content

maybe cuz it is a windows bitmap and you are using a mac... i never thought ofthat but i found i got better image resolution with a .bmp than with a .gif or .jpg? any computer out there have opinions on this?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: PAGE TOP HELLO PAGE 14!!!!! Shiznit!!

PAGE TOP HELLO PAGE 14!!!!!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Dru: Peter? I thought specialeds name was Hugh? Specialed's name is really Hugh Jass? Probably not Hugh G Rection

it might take a few minitz to load? you can check out the bivouac.com photo essay if that don't work?

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by AlpineK: Hey when do we get to see holly and SK fight? We're working on getting General Foods as a sponsor to make it a Jello wrestling event!! I dont think you can scuba in jello.

Spray is a transitory pleasure but the accomplishment of taking a good climbing picture (or making a first ascent or completing a difficult route or just having fun in the mountains) lasts much longer.