Dru

Dynomerchant dopnt forget to check out the Chilliwack limestone bouldering and Hope area granite now you are back in town. Closer for you than Squamish and less developed. Maybe you can do the 2nd ascent of Nate's V10 at the gold Rush.

I can bring a woman to orgasm in under 15 seconds do you think I should report that to Hans???

i just wanna be cool and use the new icon!

yes, behind the chopper there in the photo is the so called "Airport wall" with routes up to 10 pitchers and 5.11+, reportedly. and that was c. 1996, who knows what there is now. we found evidence of more recent lines than Snootli Exprerss on Snootli in the form of recent Fixe ring stations when we got offroute looking for the express above the tree ledge. i heard guys from Whistler have been doing lots of secret/unreported new routing up there. Most dont seem to scrub the cracks just climb them mossy.....

www.bivouac.com

So the Queen Bess trip was called in the face of a washed out bridge 10km from the start of the bushwacking, a bad weather forecast and a horsecock deficiency (only 12 landjaegers for 2 people for 6 days). Our #1 Backup Plan, an "obvious" unclimbed couloir, was also bailed on in the face of the Subaru overheating trying to drive in to it. So Backup plan B was unveiled and we drove to Bella Coola. There is more granite in that valley than in the whole of Squamish and Powell River put together. Most of it is in the form of huge slabs. We decided to do "Snootley Express" a 15 pitch 5.10 rated route put up in 1993. The route is super-briefly described in Lyle's Central Bc rock book but I had seen a story of the first ascent, with a few more vague details, written up in the 1993 VOC Journal by Mike Surface, who was the belayer on that ascent. Anyways Brent and I got up late, fouight of fmosquitoes, and went slab climbing. Super cool 1 hour approach up thick moss carpets following bear trails in part. About as much of a hike as Sunblessed, maybe a bit longer. The route start was pretty obvious where the trail hit the rock. We started climbing. The first two pitches were 5.7/8 (2 bolts - 50m) and 5.6 (0 bolts - 50m). A little bit sketchy cause of grit and lichen on the slabs you had to stop and wipe the soles of your shoes on your hand you couldnt just smear nonstop. The stations had chains, webbing and rusty shackles. Ok so we could bail if necessary!! Pitch 3 was 5.9 stemming up a blank corner and about 30m. the wall got steeper here. two bolts in the first 15m then run it thru the crux to the anchor looking at factor 1 fall. thats pretty tame for this route as it turns out - just a wake up. Pitch 4 was hard to find at first. some bolts out right on another route are a station and not the 4th pitch. p4 moves left from the p3 station and climbs the right edge of a hanging slab over some detached blocks to a ledge. 40m 5.8, 2 bolts and gear behind detached block. P.5 heads up into a huge tree island ledge which is reached at the end of the pitch. about 5.8. somewhat mossy but you get 3 whole bolts on this 5.8 50m pitch!!! it was hard to find p. 6 because no bolts are visible from the top of tree island. we searched for an hour and ended up climbing 2 pitches up flakes on the right side (3rd class & 5.8) to gain the next tree ledge above on its right side. turns out the route climbs 2 pitches slabs (5.7? trad pro behind a flake, 50m & 5.8/9? 1 bolt, 40m) to the left end of the same ledge. the next two pitches were some of the best slabs ive ever climbed. huge sheets of glacial polish with holes in it. climbing on the edges of the holes. sort of like climbing plates of desert varnish. absolutely no pro except belays- 5.7 and 5.8 - both about 40m. we somehow linked the next two pitches with some simulclimbing thru missing one of the belays (it was on a ledge out left and we went right at first) - there were a few trad placements on these slabs. two more pitches of 5.8/9. the next two pitches were the crux pitches. i led off on the first of these (12th pitch in total) taking a few cams for some pods i saw along the way. as it turned out the cams were too small for the pods so I ran it out hoping for something better. instead i got a set of 10a moves to a blank groove filled with moss. sketched up it somehow with much crying, wailing for mommy, swearing, tears, stained shorts etc. 10a 40m no pro!!! (a #3 Camalot would have reduced this to a manageable factor 1 fall potential!!!) Brent led the nexdt pitch which had a short vertical section up edges with a bolt. he actually FELL OFF on this luckily after clipping the bolt. then sent it next go. route continued up a deep polished runnel chimney with a crack in the left wall for pro. 10b 45m. from this point, there are 2-3 pitches of reportedly 5.5 (4th class it looked like) to the top of the wall, but it started to rain so we rapped from here. we climbed 13 pitches in 4 hrs due to not having to stop and place gear. raps took 2 hrs then off to the Bentnick Arms in Hagensborg for beers and burgers. This is a super sweet route - one of best slabs ive ever climbed. gear - take 6-8 slings and a small set of cams. no need for a rack of nuts but you need HUGE GREY SQUIRREL BALLS to deal with the runouts. be prepared for swarms of blood thirsty insects if the breeze ever stops or when it clouds up.

Ninja Tiger Arete on Scuzzy. MCLane deselected a lot of routes based on mainly his lack of a good photo of the route..... PS A new 6 pitch 5.10 route just got climbed on Ashlu. There is a topo in the new route book in Climb-On in Squamish.

Sisyphus Summits - North Face of Ha Ling. (Canmore). Real sport climbing with 25m "pitches" and bolts 3m apart.

im in squamish right now hanging out at valhalla pure - its pouring rain but supposed to clear up on tuesday. - by which time i have to be back at work.

skaha in july = suffering.

quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: Wait a second... It's obvious to me why Yos needs a swaging tool but why are the only two people who have one, or easy access to one, women? What am I missing? estrogen, obviously

apparently as a protest over not being allowed sidearms, the National Park rangers are refusing to do enforcement duties... does that mean no enforcement of permit requirements in Canada's National Parks??? it might so get there fast!!!!

if we diverted the energy we now use to spray to postive goals who knows what miracles might become possible.... but it wouldn't be as much fun

quote: Originally posted by Dru: how is this one? it might be too small ... of a picture, trask i know you were typing "I bet all the girlz say that" I can read your little peabrain!!!!

test

how is this one? it might be too small...

neutrons suck cause they wont hold a charge. i got some cheap muons if you are still trying to get your cold fusuion bong setup going.

quote: Originally posted by Mtnclimber: Climbed Mt. Athelstan on monday via the moonraker route. Found the route to be much easier than expected. Never found the 5.6 pitches at the base. We soloed all but the last two pitches, the rest of the route consisted of lots of 3rd and 4th class with a little low 5th. Most of the rock was the typical alpine loose stuff. The guide states that the route takes 7-10 hours from the bivy site to climb when in reality takes 5-6 from the car (If that). While the route was less than spectactular the area was great offering great views. If you are into alpine climbing this area is worth visiting. Are the other two routes better and is climbing more consistant? Any beta- How long do the routes really take to climb? I would like to make another visit to this area except the decent glacier is quickly turning into a ice climb with rock fall hazard and openning Seracs. Does anyone have any recommendation for other routes in this area with more consistant difficulties and better rock? more beta as requested

Moonraker was repeated 5x in 2001 (John Howe soloed the whole thing) and Lillarete 2x. Standing Wave is a great route. Selective Cut and Raised By Bears are so-so. I never said anything about 5.6 at the base, I said low 5th. Blame Kevin. The 7-10 hrs is pretty standard for a party that maxes out at 5.7 and belays the whole thing. If you thought it was too easy you could have climbed Lillarete instead.

Grimface Matriarch traverse is one of the 10 best routes ive ever done. take 1-3camalots, two long slings and a few nutz.

me how do i get the little picture?

I am having fun away from work. Saturday: Sir Don NW ridge was wet in a snowstorm so we climbed Uto SW ridge instead just like many others have. Good scramble. Take rope to rap one step when descending. Sunday: cragging at Back of the Lake with everyone from Quebec. Like the whole fucking province. My belayer got in a fight with some of them while I was leading a 5.7. Monday: NE buttress of Ha Ling (the peak formerly known as China....) 4 hrs up. Lots of fixed pins and not a few bolts. Very little gear otherwise. Tuesday: hiked in to Castle Hut Wednesday: Brewers Buttress. This route kix serious ASS!!!! Best limestone I have ever seen except for Mt Owen in New Zealand, and Verdon Gorge I guess. Thurs: Bass Buttress. Steeper and looser than Brewers. Fun plus. Today: drove home to shower and wash clothes. Tomorrow: heading out for Homathko Icefield. Keep the spray alive while I'm gone!

genetically engineered snafflehounds with electric eel genes. they eat your horsecock and recharge your headlamp bettery at the same time!

story about glaciers melting faster than had been thought

Ya bomb & kill 4 canadians in Afghanistan and get a medal.. bomb somebody's toilet in USA and get suspended... armed forces are weird.